Barn Rebuild: The family heirloom (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Threads
34
Messages
568
Location
Richardson, TX
Hello everyone. I am neck-deep in a rebuilding process, and decided to start a thread to document what I am doing. I promise to try to do my best with the updating as I get work done.

A little back-story:
Almost 40 years ago, my uncle bought a Toyota 4x4 to help get him to and from his remote cabin outside of Boulder, CO. He drove it for a few years in the mountains and on his notorious adventures to any part of the country he fancied. When he decided to take his carpentry business to California, he traded the Landcruiser to his mother (my grandma) for her Audi, so he would look more "upscale" when bidding jobs to movie stars (which he did successfully, according to family stories). That was 1979 or 1980. My grandparents used the rig as a 3rd vehicle for 3-4 years, whenever a load of lumber needed to be hauled on a small trailer or whatever. After loaning it out to some irresponsible family members, my grandparents "repo-ed" it and parked it. The last time it was started was 1984. It sat, occasionally hauled to a different part of the lot or another barn for the next 27-ish years.

I grew up looking at the old Toyota, wanting to play in it as a child, and wanting to work on it as an adolescent. Family drama kept it in its rotting state for a long time. Around Thanksgiving 2011, my grandmother offered me the opportunity to have the old rig and bring it back to life. I honorably accepted, angry family be-damned. Here is it rotting in the mud around Thanksgiving 2011:

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It was in North Texas clay up to the axles. That was its resting place for over a decade. The brakes were rusted to the drums. I pulled the drive shafts, changed the fluids in the axles, hand-mounted some recycled used tires, installed a tow-bar, and hauled it 260 miles from St. Paul, TX (NE of Dallas) to my then home in Kyle, Texas.
 
Glad to see you will finally get to play in it. Keep us posted..
 
Chapter 2: getting it home...

According to the serial number on the frame and SOR's website, it was manufactured either September or October 1966 (I don't know if SOR data has the serial numbers listed as first or last number run that month). I got it home safely and started looking at what I was getting into.

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There was good and bad. The good news: the vast majority of parts were accounted for. They weren't all bolted to the vehicle, but I found a lot of parts that I looked for. The bad: my recent ancestors were notorious about using "make-it work for now" repairs. I had some bondo and rust issues, random holes from accessories, and rust (I blame Colorado winters, time, and sitting in the mud) to deal with. After tirelessly searching IH8MUD, I realized that my rust issues were small by comparison. Also bad, there was 30 year old grime, clay, and mud everywhere, including filling the frame rails almost completely.

I started tearing it all apart, slowly. I took it upon myself to repair some rust in the tub before trying to remove it. I fixed the rear sill with my old 115 volt FCAW welder from Campbell Hausfeld and a kit from CCOT. It wasn't perfect, but with time and a grinder I managed to get things into the condition that a slight skim-coat of filler would be enough.

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I don't have a picture of it in its current form, but it is OK.

Then, I got a new welder. I started tackling the wheel wells that were rusted through and refilled with body filler. I made this using 16GA sheet metal. My goal here is mostly original, but with concessions for the sake of budget. I don't need to make rust repairs using reproduction steel on a vehicle that is mostly flat panels. I didn't keep the factory ribbing, but I can live with that.

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Everything moved very slowly, because I spent most of my time and money being a full-time student and holding down 1-2 jobs with varying degrees of time commitment. When I graduated, I had to pack up my house, sell it, and move back to the DFW area, since my wife received a promotion that accompanied a re-transfer back to the home-base in Richardson.
 
After moving back to DFW, My wife and I were not in a position to buy another house immediately, and we set up a home in an apartment. The '66 made its way back to St. Paul, where I put it in my father's barn. Short on cash, but long on time (job hunting), I just took everything apart. I fabricated a patch for the other rusted wheel well and got ready for the real work. I spent days with the pressure washer removing accumulated "stuff" and even more days with a can of penetrating spray. I still broke my share of bolts off.
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This post should get me up to speed. I have since found a job. The extra income and schedule stability has provided me with the motivation to get things moving on this project. I took it down to the bare frame and started removing rust. I used a sandblaster and wire brush for part, but muriatic acid seemed to work fastest and cheapest. As a chemistry teacher, I had to figure out what exactly I was dealing with. The Kleen Strip stuff at the big box stores is about 7.4 Molar hydrochloric acid (25% by mass). Goggles, respirator, and rubber gloves are a must with this stuff.

After getting the frame cleaned up to my not-so-exacting standards, I painted it gloss black. As a bribe to get my wife to let me work on the project this weekend (I promised to spend all day with her), I let her handle the sprayer to paint inside of the frame rails. I won't sweat a few runs in there. As it turns out, she was a natural. There are a few runs from her first minute or two handling a sprayer, but she caught on quick.

Pics to follow.
 
:popcorn:
 
Thank you for saving another FJ40 from being neglected, good to see it go to a good home.
 
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Pics of frame before, middle, and end of cleaning and painting... If I can work the mobile app right (other pics are added using a real pc).

Looking good, keep it up!
Remember to take plenty of photos :)
 
I'm in Fort Worth. Let me know what you need or if you want to get together. I just finished a 3 year restoration.
 
Question: both front knuckles are shimmed identical. 1.20mm top, 1.00mm bottom. Normal?

Also, will new bearings be the same dims, or will the knuckles need to be re-centered?

For that matter, will removing and reinstalling the knuckle races (clocked so the flat spots move) buy me another 20 years of knuckle bearing life, or am I being too cheap?
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re-use the shims but definitely not the trunion bearings or races if they are grooved. you will not need to recenter anything.

I re-used my wheel bearings because they looked brand new.
 

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