Builds A fabricators 80 build.... (3 Viewers)

[RDC76]

Adjustable carrier brackets swapped in and worked out great. Probably only need 1/2 the hardware. Lol. I also added a small helper step that makes it a lot easier getting on the ladder. The 6-1/2"s less you have to raise your leg made all the difference in the world. And it was cut from one of the drops so worked out great. I'll probably texture it so it's not slippery.

And here's the little helper step...

might change the profile not sure I like the round. Maybe 3 sided might look better. But either way it's one of those simple things that makes a big difference in usability.


Rich

 

[RDC76]

Did some weighing in tonight. the bumper weighs about 150lbs. Not bad considered it's constructed from sructural tube. The combination tire/fuel carrier weighed 68lbs. and the ladder weighed 28lbs. So that's 246lbs. now I did REMOVE about 70lbs from the truck (factory trailer hitch, cross member and stock tire carrier/member) so that brings it to 176lbs on the vehicle after removal/install. if I don't run the ladder (as some have said that that was the configuration they were interested in) I'm at 148lbs added (218 actual bumper weight) to carry a tire and fuel with one swing out on a solid bumper.
I could shave weight by changing the outer wings to 1/8'' thickness from 3/16'' rec. tube. but the outside sections i cut out from the midway down that tapper under i could leave at 3/16''. that's the area that will see abuse. the ladder is good. and the tire/fuel carrier is all 3/16'' except the large backplate is 10 guage and tire mount plate is 1/4''. i could go all 10 guage on the frame construction to cut weight there and it would still be plenty strong by design. But after driving with it I'm not sure ill change anything on mine. I'm happy with it and it feels good.

 

[mechanist]

Is aluminum an option? Not for the bumper, but for swing outs and ladder?

This design is fantastic. Absolutely my favorite to date!

 

[artech]

Y'know, some nice coarse checkering and a beveled edge would look fantastic on that step plate...

 

[Enders]

I had a thought. Currently the undercarriage is plate to help keep the bumper from getting hung up. Could you save weight and increase corrosion resistance by using tube? Like an undercarriage slider. Will be easier to clean and less likely to be a scoop for salt and sand from driving winterized roads.

Also, where the under carriage is plate for aesthetics, give it perforations or a grill like design for weight savings and air flow (also to keep winterized road stuff from collecting inside the bumper.

Or this could be the two energy drinks on 4 hours sleep with 25 hrs on duty out of 36 talking

 

[CascadeCruisen]

I am about to swap a 6.2 LS into my rig, so weight is ok with me! But yes....anything you can do to reduce weight while maintaining strength would be awesome. So to be clear...this adds 150+ lbs to the truck from stock?

 

[RDC76]

Is aluminum an option? Not for the bumper, but for swing outs and ladder?

This design is fantastic. Absolutely my favorite to date!

it definitely could be but not presently. I need to get a spoolgun for my 252. And its too much for my current tig machine. and thanks its my favorite too so far...

 

[RDC76]

Y'know, some nice coarse checkering and a beveled edge would look fantastic on that step plate...

i agree! i have some checker plate but ive been saving it for a different part of the truck. ive been playing with some "in house texturing" but it does need something.

 

[Mogwai]

Just read through your thread beginning to end. Super impressed. Now can you please go get yourself a 200 series and start kicking out bumpers!?!? I'm pretty sure there are just a few guys on here waiting for some better options! Heck... given your work I'm sure if you asked for deposit from X number of guys to get 200 series bumpers in motion you would have no problem. Sign me up!

 

[RDC76]

I had a thought. Currently the undercarriage is plate to help keep the bumper from getting hung up. Could you save weight and increase corrosion resistance by using tube? Like an undercarriage slider. Will be easier to clean and less likely to be a scoop for salt and sand from driving winterized roads.

Also, where the under carriage is plate for aesthetics, give it perforations or a grill like design for weight savings and air flow (also to keep winterized road stuff from collecting inside the bumper.

Or this could be the two energy drinks on 4 hours sleep with 25 hrs on duty out of 36 talking

So with corrosion in mind as well as function..... If i use tube under there instead of plate there is a better chance of getting hung up and completely stuck. if you go up over something that fits in-between the two then you are caught and cant go forward or reverse and must get the jack out. Perfect example small stumps. happens to my brother inlaw with his ifs A arms frequently. so that's why i think plate is better there.
In the case of slots and holes for weight reduction and air flow. the more holes and cuts create more edges and places that its hard to coat or paint and you have a better chance of causing a rust prone area. i can get as fancy with cuts and holes as the next, but i don't underneath typically for that reason. if i put a hole or cut on underside brackets its typically for needed drainage or to get at something. Now up top on things yes ill get creative as the intent allows. And being something topside (carrier, Ladder and such)you have a better chance of noticing the start of rust and you can address it before it becomes a problem.

get some rest...lol

 

[RDC76]

Just read through your thread beginning to end. Super impressed. Now can you please go get yourself a 200 series and start kicking out bumpers!?!? I'm pretty sure there are just a few guys on here waiting for some better options! Heck... given your work I'm sure if you asked for deposit from X number of guys to get 200 series bumpers in motion you would have no problem. Sign me up!

I actually have a local gentleman that's been waiting patiently for some time now for me to build a rear on his 200. So that will happen although I'm not sure ill get into 200 parts per say but there will be a rear done coming up. He currently has a bent and rotted arb..I can let you know when and if you know of others maybe we could put together a very limited group run.

Thank you!
Rich

 

[RDC76]

I am about to swap a 6.2 LS into my rig, so weight is ok with me! But yes....anything you can do to reduce weight while maintaining strength would be awesome. So to be clear...this adds 150+ lbs to the truck from stock?

there will be some small changes to save weight. BUT I just went out to weigh another trailer hitch receiver that came off of the other 80 I built the rear on for comparison to mine (don't know what made me think of that) and it was a lot heavier? so I said previously that the weight of material removed was about 70lbs. I just reweighed and totaled 93lbs. 23lb difference! Soooooo if you are talking about my full bumper with fuel/tire carrier and ladder the way it currently is it would be 246lbs but after removing the 93lbs of stock parts it would be like having added 153lbs to your truck. If your just going with the bumper and carrier with no ladder minus another 28lbs. so 125lbs put on after install. If you were running just my bumper and kept the tire underneath it would be 150-93 + 21lbs for the stock carrier/crossmember so 78lbs added weight after installation for just a bumper install. not bad..

does that answer your question? lol

so it looks like the final number depends on what hitch you have taken off as some are a lot heavier than others.

thanks
Rich

 

[RDC76]

For those that have expressed interest. pricing is now up on my vendor thread in the armor section.

Thank you!

Rich

 

[RDC76]

Got some parts today one of which I thought I'd share for others that might have been trying to find a decent license plate light. If you had to relocate yours cause of a bumper build. I found this at nappa and it's American made to my surprise. Anyways nice small size, led and clean white light output. They have two different mounting styles and you can get grey or black. And it's sealed so should hold up. A little pricey at 30 bucks but made in America and locally sourced.
I'll post pics of it on and illuminated later.

 

[RDC76]

Here was another I got but not sure ill use on this one. It comes on a stainless bracket and also has brake lighting. But this may work for someone else too. It just screws right behind your plate. Its nicely constructed as well for 35 bucks. And comes with a harness.

 

[RDC76]

I also bought a set of rock lights by lux lighting. I've been looking at these for a while. Finally grabbed a set of 4. But now I think on our trucks you need at least 6.

 

[RDC76]

Here's a shot of the bracket I just drew to mount the h2o rotopax behind the ladder. I'll cut it in the morning and fit it up. It goes between the uprights of the ladder and to the swing arm. And the locking mount attaches to the two holes . Should look good even with the water tank off.

 

[Phildoh]

I recently picked up the A4OR rock lights, and I've got to figure out where to mount the front pair. Do t want to go in the wheel wells, nowhere on the bumper is good, and not a lit of frame realty to spare.

 

[RDC76]

I recently picked up the A4OR rock lights, and I've got to figure out where to mount the front pair. Do t want to go in the wheel wells, nowhere on the bumper is good, and not a lit of frame realty to spare.

facing the same challenge. post up pics of what you end up doing.

 

[RDC76]

heres the water pack bracket in place. a few more small things and shell be ready for paint. then onto either sliders or upper tube work/rack.