Elaborate on this elementary sketch...
80 slider opinion (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter lcwizard
- Start date
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See the dilemma is that thin plate w no support can easily kiss the body sill. If the sill was gone and you could load in a good gusset every 10-12", the idea would work for us.
Keep it coming, well sort out something worthy together
Keep it coming, well sort out something worthy together
UnderDawg
Wannabe welder
Even with 1/4 or 3/8" plate it would still deflect into the sill. It needs to be tube, thats why I'm using 2x2x3/16" square tubing for my out riggers. I think I'll copy the design Phil posted and use tubing for out riggers and a weld on application. Seems to be the best in my mind... of course my mind is usually clouded.
Right, but in 'conversation' Phil has many good ideas re: using the sill as a landing. I can build a die for the pressbrake to incorporate the shape of the door sill.
Those thoughts are well beyond a production item and merely for his and my personal vehicles.
But, There's simply no way to do that and not get plagued with nasty rattling/vibes from the area they interface unless you intentionally mate the two and then it's no different than a tight Exo cage if connected to the frame, and I need that no matter what for the cat convertor area.(frame to slider connection).
Those thoughts are well beyond a production item and merely for his and my personal vehicles.
But, There's simply no way to do that and not get plagued with nasty rattling/vibes from the area they interface unless you intentionally mate the two and then it's no different than a tight Exo cage if connected to the frame, and I need that no matter what for the cat convertor area.(frame to slider connection).
This one yours? I remember seeing this pic a while back. That's what I plan on doing next. Cut off my old bent sliders, chop the rocker to get some ground clearance and build new sliders tucked close to the doors.
Yep- that mine. Careful chopping.......sparks fly up the pillars and onto interior flammables....plug your pillars from inside so sparks don't travel in and surprise you.
Good tip. I'll pull out all the interior paneling first. Do you have any other pics? What's under there after you trim, is any of the interior exposed that you need to seal back up? Or can I simply trim and leave it be, then add a slider underneath?
I sealed it up. Keeps dust n mud out of pillars and crossmembers which become opened up/exposed. Once u start cutting you will see it needs to be closed up
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Damn bugs you really seem to get crazy with cut-off wheel in your hands. Glad you left most of the truck intact this time!
A design like that is asking for body damage IMO...if you actually intend on using the sliders of course. I'll just leave this pic here. It's the reason why I'm gonna chop the rockers out
And end up with something like this, with a rail that sticks out though
A design like that is asking for body damage IMO...if you actually intend on using the sliders of course. I'll just leave this pic here. It's the reason why I'm gonna chop the rockers out
And end up with something like this, with a rail that sticks out though
What brand slider was that that bent into the body?
Extend them to the wheel wells. Also, how about recreating these boat side sliders since the original guy isn't interested?
Hah. That is actually my truck. Were made by Outdoor Logic. He did really good work.
Unfortunately, I landed on a rock and they gave and bent my fender and rocker panel. Overall they are beefy except for the area where it cradles the cats.
bwesty
SILVER Star
Have you considered this design utilizing the pinch weld and riveting to body?
http://randyellisdesign-com.3dcartstores.com/Toyota-4Runner-Rockers_p_87.html
http://randyellisdesign-com.3dcartstores.com/Toyota-4Runner-Rockers_p_87.html
I finally got my 4 Plus sliders on my 1997 LC last week, these sliders are extremely heavy duty and I love the way they mount.
You will be required to weld the brackets onto the frame, sliders are mounted with 3 1/2" bolts per bracket.
The installation process was straight forward and simple, but you will need about 3 hours to get all the brackets welded.
A floor jack with a flat surface for the sliders to sit on will make the install extremely easy to level and help keep it in place while you mark up the frame.
The mounting design on these sliders make it a breeze to take off and put back on when you are ready for your trip.
Since I have a family with 2 little ones, I have made plans to add steps to these sliders to help the wife and kids get in and out. It will also make it easier for me to strap them into their car seats when we go do our groceries or extreme off road trips to the mall.
The sliders appear to be short because they were made with mud flaps on, as you can see my mud flaps have been taken off because I didn't want them torn off while in the parking lot. Overall, these sliders are freaking hardcore and look very sexy, they will outlive the truck.
I'm thinking of doing a group buy for my friends 1996 LC after Dave recover from his back surgery.
The group buy will be for the longer version + 5" (i wish I can get an extra 5"), extended to sit behind the fender flare. These weigh in about 80lbs each, cat side is about 5lbs heavier.
Anyone interested in the group buy? I'm located in Socal but anyone and everyone is welcome to participate, mudship and shipping have to be set up on your end.
please express interest below so I can workout details with Dave.
Here are a few shots of the sliders with no finish to display the excellent welds.
After a good rub down, I sprayed the sliders with primer for paint.
I was debating between eye popping red, bronze, or silver... decided to go with silver since my truck is gray and I don't want any unwanted attention, It sort of back fired because it blended in way too well.
I like the overall design of this slider as well as the look on the truck. The welds look great! Nice strengthening of the outer tube with clean lines from the inner supports. Something that needs attention, though is the fitment of the plates to the square tube. The purpose of a "slider" is to slide over object that come in contact with the bottom of the truck. If there are a bunch of ledges, lips, and points to catch an edge, you can end up getting hung up and high centered on it from a measly 1/4" lip on something. I think these should have a better fitment on the bottom "sliding surface" with attention to make the SMOOTH from one end to the other. Right now, it would be like trying to drag the underbelly across a set of railroad tracks to catch and release from each one of the lips created by the cutouts and weld tabs at each weld joint. This is where the boat sliders work well. They are smooth and uniform from one end to the other. Maybe not as sexy, but possibly more functional.
Nothing personal, just my opinion......
