80 series leaking fuel tank at spot where brake cable passes (1 Viewer)

[Therealtotodile]

Hi all, there is a well documented fuel tank phenomenon, where a hairline fracture appears along a certain position on the top of the tank. Based on what I have read, it is a design flaw.

After reading a bunch of the threads, people do not recommend welding (there is some term for the type of weld used here, that I am not familiar with -- "braze"). It seems to not last too long, so most that have a compromised tank, suggest just getting a new one. I have also read that many people who get used tanks from sources like cruiserparts, get tanks that are also compromised, or that become compromised in a short time.

OEM tanks are going for 700+ on the internet, so I'm sure this is like a 1300$ job, after labor, if I take it to the shop.

Is there any way around this? Or shall I start saving up the money for a new tank?

Cheers,
Chris

 

[ZackR]

If I was going to replace the OEM fuel tank due to a crack or otherwise I'd go for a long range tank.

I'd also make sure the EVAP (charcoal canister) system is functioning properly to avoid pressurization of the tank.

 

[BILT4ME]

Hi all, there is a well documented fuel tank phenomenon, where a hairline fracture appears along a certain position on the top of the tank. Based on what I have read, it is a design flaw.

After reading a bunch of the threads, people do not recommend welding (there is some term for the type of weld used here, that I am not familiar with -- "braze"). It seems to not last too long, so most that have a compromised tank, suggest just getting a new one. I have also read that many people who get used tanks from sources like cruiserparts, get tanks that are also compromised, or that become compromised in a short time.

OEM tanks are going for 700+ on the internet, so I'm sure this is like a 1300$ job, after labor, if I take it to the shop.

Is there any way around this? Or shall I start saving up the money for a new tank?

Cheers,
Chris

A brand new Toyota tank from Toyota is $792.22 as of 11/29/23. I know there are places that can get them slightly less. Then you have shipping. This happens to be at my local dealer and I will have no shipping involved.

If your truck is "rust free" then this is not a hard job to complete. I did mine in about 6 hours taking my time and having to deal with one rusted bolt (Midwest) and I cleaned and repainted my tank. The fuel hoses need to be reused or buy new from Toyota. You should replace a couple gaskets on the fuel pump body and definitely the copper washers on the fuel pump lines.

Yes, you need to replace your Charcoal canister (NLA on OEM) with VC120 or equal. You can get a used tank from @arcteryx (TX) or @slow95z (GA) and a few other places around the country, but you will have some freight involved.

 

[slow95z]

Man I am not shipping tanks. my local place got super anal about them and demands all kinds hazmat crap and it drives the price up too much.

 

[jonheld]

Hi all, there is a well documented fuel tank phenomenon, where a hairline fracture appears along a certain position on the top of the tank. Based on what I have read, it is a design flaw.

IMO this is not a design flaw, but a result of over-pressurization of the tank due to a failed charcoal canister. Yes, the top seam is a weak point, but it would not fail unless the charcoal canister allowed this to happen. Every vessel has a weak point.
On my 91 and on my brothers 97 the tank didn't fail, but the filler hose ruptured. That's more of a magilla then the tank.