I have no experience with this specific cilinder but sometimes it is hard to get the air out of master cilinders. You can try to get the line of and have the pedal pushed with your finger on the hole.
25 Master Cylinders (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FJnotCJ
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A friend and I have tried all this time and time again, but no pressure. If bottom hose from hard line to Slave is bad, would this keep MC from priming?
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
Mine did the same. Even though bench bleeding never made a difference on any other system, I had to bench bleed the older style cylinders to get them to work. Run a small rubber hose that you can press into the end and run the other end into the reservoir. pump slowly until the bubbles stop then quickly thread the hard line back in and bleed normally starting with the furthest run first.
Treeroot it's the clutch so just talking about 24" of line max but no go.
It just does not seem to be getting any pressure.
It just does not seem to be getting any pressure.
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
Pulled the Tin Can clutch and master cylinders on the '64 FJ40 and took some pictures of the rebuild. The early 40 is the same 1" bore as the 20 and can use the same rebuild parts. I also found a new part number for the same kit as above.
All the same:
Napa - 166
Raybestos - MK166
AC Delco - 18G1226
I only use the two rubber pieces from the kit and reuse all the Toyota innards.
Brake:
Clutch:
The only parts that are different. Even though the brake piston is stamped 2-5 and the clutch piston is stamped 2-4, they appear to be the same
All the same:
Napa - 166
Raybestos - MK166
AC Delco - 18G1226
I only use the two rubber pieces from the kit and reuse all the Toyota innards.
Brake:
Clutch:
The only parts that are different. Even though the brake piston is stamped 2-5 and the clutch piston is stamped 2-4, they appear to be the same
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treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
Bore is .999 inches
Honed then 600 grit followed by 1200, 2000, 3000, then metal metal polish
It is hard to take a pic but the inside is a mirror finish
Honed then 600 grit followed by 1200, 2000, 3000, then metal metal polish
It is hard to take a pic but the inside is a mirror finish
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
Thanks for the write up and the new part number. Have to dig into this too.
Nice...thanks!!
Treeroot
Great write up on the Tin Cup rebuild.
Thank you for taking the time to investigate, document and share you findings.
Great write up on the Tin Cup rebuild.
Thank you for taking the time to investigate, document and share you findings.
I found a more suitable rebuild kit for the 25 master cylinders. It's Raybestos MK190 and has a piston size closer to the original. It's only about 1mm longer.
018-02-fj25 part number at SOR is discontinued, any one have a plan B?
1959 fj25, My master clutch cylinder says FE-1051
1-1/16 G, then G85 on one side. And 51 Wagner Lockheed on the other. Any body know what rebuild kit will work. Raybestos mk166 and ac delco 18g1226 both have 1" cups in them. I need 1-1/16
1-1/16 G, then G85 on one side. And 51 Wagner Lockheed on the other. Any body know what rebuild kit will work. Raybestos mk166 and ac delco 18g1226 both have 1" cups in them. I need 1-1/16
It's from a 1939-1952 Ford
So I started this over on the 40 section and I guess it makes more since here
Ok, so on my 64 45lv, I have the tin cup clutch master , 11mm fitting and hard line out the front. Bought it new 12 years ago along with slave, according to this pic I took
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/691553/4233613/56318662.jpg
Well the master is leaking thru the interior boot, so I need to think about a replacment
My option's seem to be the SOR(or ccot) upgrade kit, using a later master, slave, new hard line and hose. while I don't mind doing this, I like to keep what I have if possible
I know I can probably rebuild the master, ordered the Napa lit mentioned
I had thought I have seen an aftermarket master with plastic cup that was a bolt on replacement . ...but can't find it anymore
But then I started to read this thread.......and stated to think, why can't I just use a new Toyota brake master, take end cap with fitting off, swap the 9mm for the 11mm end and put it on the new one?
I tried the old(but not tin cup style) brake master from the 45LV in the empty hole(s) for the clutch master in the(now) parts 65 fj40, the bolt pattern is the same.
this is the 45LV, brand new(1 week ago) brake master from Toyota and old(12 years old from Toyota) tin cup clutch master, Unless there is something inside of one or the other that is different.....I think it would work. I don't think the old single line brake system used a residual valve in the master but I may be wrong. And unless those pics Treeroot show are the same part(and I think they are 2 different pics) then it should work?
thoughts?
Ok, so on my 64 45lv, I have the tin cup clutch master , 11mm fitting and hard line out the front. Bought it new 12 years ago along with slave, according to this pic I took
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/691553/4233613/56318662.jpg
Well the master is leaking thru the interior boot, so I need to think about a replacment
My option's seem to be the SOR(or ccot) upgrade kit, using a later master, slave, new hard line and hose. while I don't mind doing this, I like to keep what I have if possible
I know I can probably rebuild the master, ordered the Napa lit mentioned
I had thought I have seen an aftermarket master with plastic cup that was a bolt on replacement . ...but can't find it anymore
But then I started to read this thread.......and stated to think, why can't I just use a new Toyota brake master, take end cap with fitting off, swap the 9mm for the 11mm end and put it on the new one?
I tried the old(but not tin cup style) brake master from the 45LV in the empty hole(s) for the clutch master in the(now) parts 65 fj40, the bolt pattern is the same.
this is the 45LV, brand new(1 week ago) brake master from Toyota and old(12 years old from Toyota) tin cup clutch master, Unless there is something inside of one or the other that is different.....I think it would work. I don't think the old single line brake system used a residual valve in the master but I may be wrong. And unless those pics Treeroot show are the same part(and I think they are 2 different pics) then it should work?
thoughts?
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
So I started this over on the 40 section and I guess it makes more since here
Ok, so on my 64 45lv, I have the tin cup clutch master , 11mm fitting and hard line out the front. Bought it new 12 years ago along with slave, according to this pic I took
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/691553/4233613/56318662.jpg
Well the master is leaking thru the interior boot, so I need to think about a replacment
My option's seem to be the SOR(or ccot) upgrade kit, using a later master, slave, new hard line and hose. while I don't mind doing this, I like to keep what I have if possible
I know I can probably rebuild the master, ordered the Napa lit mentioned
I had thought I have seen an aftermarket master with plastic cup that was a bolt on replacement . ...but can't find it anymore
But then I started to read this thread.......and stated to think, why can't I just use a new Toyota brake master, take end cap with fitting off, swap the 9mm for the 11mm end and put it on the new one?
I tried the old(but not tin cup style) brake master from the 45LV in the empty hole(s) for the clutch master in the(now) parts 65 fj40, the bolt pattern is the same.
this is the 45LV, brand new(1 week ago) brake master from Toyota and old(12 years old from Toyota) tin cup clutch master, Unless there is something inside of one or the other that is different.....I think it would work. I don't think the old single line brake system used a residual valve in the master but I may be wrong. And unless those pics Treeroot show are the same part(and I think they are 2 different pics) then it should work?
thoughts?
Buy this part from RockAuto (here is a discount code 5078828845496240).
The tin cup swaps over. Take out the residual valve and you are good to go for a clutch.
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
I took one apart for you...
Take out this part for the clutch
Take out this part for the clutch
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Fantastic !
Still need to change the end cap fitting over right ? one is 9mm and other 11mm.
Still need to change the end cap fitting over right ? one is 9mm and other 11mm.
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
That is correct. Last pic in post 225 above shows the different bits.
