- Thread starter
- #41
Also, what brand is OEM? NGK? Denso? Forgot to ask in previous post. lol 
1992 FJ80 3FE Wont Start (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter UncleBanjo
- Start date
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Personally, I would feel better about a used OEM unit as opposed to a new aftermarket one, but the choice is yours. I stay away from aftermarket parts.
- Thread starter
- #43
Yea! I was just thinking about speed and accessibility. I agree, OEM is always better. Where can I find an OEM one though? What brand is OEM? Cruiser Yard said he didn't have any available.
Thanks though guys! I'm just excited about finding out what was wrong! lol
Thats not going to be a toyota part and very pricey. If your not going to go with toyota try this 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser Distributors | Replacement 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser Distributors | 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser Ignition Distributor Assembly | 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser Aftermarket Engine Distributors At 1A Auto. Ive had one in my 91 for 3 years now with no issues
- Thread starter
- #46
Wow! That is awesome! Way cheaper than the one I was looking at. I will try to search for OEM Toyota but if I cant find one that's available, I will probably pull the trigger on the one you listed.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
My 91 LC just died last week while i was going through a drive thru. Was running a little rough, a bit of a low idle or slightly rougher then normal idle. Basically, it was running 95% normal.
Well, i replaced my coil as it measured dead with my ohm meter, cap, rotor, plugs were already newer. I checked for spark but got nothing, even after purchasing an igniter. Distributor looks good visually, but ill dive in closer to see more.
***QUESTION***
If your distributor is bad, shouldn't your coil and ignitor still fire a spark? Now that i type it, it seems obvious that it wouldnt, but i want to make sure. Is there a chance it is still a relay issue? after trying to start mine, i noticed it was warm.
Well, i replaced my coil as it measured dead with my ohm meter, cap, rotor, plugs were already newer. I checked for spark but got nothing, even after purchasing an igniter. Distributor looks good visually, but ill dive in closer to see more.
***QUESTION***
If your distributor is bad, shouldn't your coil and ignitor still fire a spark? Now that i type it, it seems obvious that it wouldnt, but i want to make sure. Is there a chance it is still a relay issue? after trying to start mine, i noticed it was warm.
- Thread starter
- #49
As far as my limited knowledge goes and what I've learned from my experience in this whole thing, (do not take this info to heart) I think if the coil and igniter still fire a spark, the pickups in the distributor kill it from no continuity and will not reach the plug wires and plugs (in my case that is). I swapped coils with a known working one and still did not fire up. Again, I am probably way wrong and would wait for a more experienced person to chime in. Please absolutely correct me if I'm wrong. Lol
Depends on the system but most toyotas use a signal from the crank sensor (ckp) to the computer (PCM). This helps it determine when to ground coil or igniter and produce spark. If you are getting spark from the coil to the distributor chances are you have a bad distributor. Seen them test ok with a meter and still not work once installed. If you don't have spark from the coil it's probably a coil or igniter. Easiest way to test that is check for a ground signal with a test light. I would have to see a wiring diagram to know which wire. Didn't see a ton of older cruisers when I worked for Toyota but this is how they did it with most of their cars. If you don't have signal you have an issue with the CKP or PCM. Or wiring in between.
SUMMIT CRUISERS
SILVER Star
@UncleBanjo, To save yourself another "headache" a year or two later, make sure you use OEM style cap with the vacuum ports and they are hooked up properly as I previously mentioned.
Let's just say, I've been down this road.
Let's just say, I've been down this road.
***Update***
I opened up the top of my distributor. It shows almost no signs of age. The new coil and ignitor doesn't create a spark so I'm leaning towards something other than the distributor. I noticed my efi main relay has been replaced before, or tested. (Somebody wrote "good") Suggesting this LC probably has had service for something similar. How can I test the relay? Continuity test? I'm afraid of what a pcm or ckp would cost.
Now you need to check the coil for signal ground. I'll look at some diagrams later today. You have a test light correct? I'm sure someone asked you this already but ignition key in the on position check engine light illuminates correct?
There is no crank position sensor in a 3FE.
The distributor pick up coils generate pulses that are fed to the ECU as the rotor shaft spins. The ECU then corrects the timing of the pulses based on its internal programming and the feedback it receives from various sensors. Those corrected pulses are then fed to the igniter which in turn pulses the primary of the ignition coil which produces spark.
Without the originating signals from the distributor pick up coils there will be no spark.
I apologize. I should not have responded till I looked at the diagram. Looks like the Black with green tracer at the coil is your positive wire and black with white tracer is your signal. Key on you should have power. With a test light and a helper check the black with a white tracer for signal ground. Crank the engine while you have the clip from the test light at battery positive and the point of the test light on the negative pin of the connector. The test light should flash quickly if you are getting good signal. Let us know what you find. Again sorry about the mix up.
So, i used my test light and pulled the connector from the coil and tested the both pins, one on "crank", one with ignition "on". Ignition on worked fine, crank showed no lights at all.
I have three ICM's that i can play with, but assuming those aren't the solution, its looking like a distributor? I ordered the EFI relay because it was cheap, distributor though, didnt budget for that one. I hate "throwing money" at problems. i paid 65 for the stupid coil at autozone already.
I HOPE me hijacking this forum thread is beneficial to others. keeping information in one place
You have not answered the most basic question:
Is the CHECK ENGINE light illuminated when the key is in the ON position before the starter motor cranks.
No CEL=No start. No need to crank the starter as the ECU has not energized the rest of the EFI control system.
You know, i totally overlooked it and spaced it. No engine light comes on. Only AT Temp, Voltage light.
