1992 FJ80 3FE Wont Start (2 Viewers)

[jwilber]

I had the pick up coils in the distributor go bad on my 91. Unfortunately they are not offered separate and you will have to replace the whole distributor if that is your problem

 

[LS1FJ40]

Don't you need to mark where you pull the distributor out so that it matches when you put it back in?

 

[jwilber]

The motor needs to be at top dead center and then the new distributor would get installed with the rotor pointing to #1. Sounds easy but takes some patience and understanding so research is key

 

[UncleBanjo]

Sorry guys! Didn't get a chance to test the pickup coils/distributor last night. Had to work late last night and have to work late again tonight. If there is enough daylight when I get off work, I will test it tonight.

The motor needs to be at top dead center and then the new distributor would get installed with the rotor pointing to #1. Sounds easy but takes some patience and understanding so research is key

Don't you need to mark where you pull the distributor out so that it matches when you put it back in?

Yea, I will definitely research and triple check everything if/when I replace the distributor. Probably start a new thread on the distributor install if there already isn't one. lol I will have a lot of questions.

 

[UncleBanjo]

So I am trying to test the distributor and I don't think im doing it right. I'm checking for ohms on the three pins G - G- and NE - G-per the FSM and the readings are all over the place. Is this the best way to test?

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

Quick? Have you inspected the two pick-up coils for corrosion? If not, I would.

 

[jonheld]

So I am trying to test the distributor and I don't think im doing it right. I'm checking for ohms on the three pins G - G- and NE - G-per the FSM and the readings are all over the place. Is this the best way to test?

It is the only way to test, but you need to be doing it correctly with your meter set up correctly. It should read between 140-1.8K ohms. Coils don't fluctuate. They can be open (infinite ohms), internally shorted (lower than normal ohms or a 0 ohms) or read somewhere in between. They are not an active component so the reading will not fluctuate. If the meter reading is "all over the place" then you're not making good contact.

 

[UncleBanjo]

It is the only way to test, but you need to be doing it correctly with your meter set up correctly. It should read between 140-1.8K ohms. Coils don't fluctuate. They can be open (infinite ohms), internally shorted (lower than normal ohms or a 0 ohms) or read somewhere in between. They are not an active component so the reading will not fluctuate. If the meter reading is "all over the place" then you're not making good contact.

Yea, my meter would read a quick 100 or so value then drop down to a 0 until I lifted off and remade contact. So it would never really actively fluctuate (incorrect word usage on my part). It would fluctuate in the sense that I would get a different reading every time I would remake contact before it dropped to 0. Does that make sense?

 

[jonheld]

Yea, my meter would read a quick 100 or so value then drop down to a 0 until I lifted off and remade contact. So it would never really actively fluctuate (incorrect word usage on my part). It would fluctuate in the sense that I would get a different reading every time I would remake contact before it dropped to 0. Does that make sense?

Are you certain this meter is measuring resistance (ohms)? This doesn't sound right to me. If you weren't making good contact, the reading would go high (infinite or open), not read 0 ohms (short).
Follow the FSM procedure to check the ignition coil and make sure it's set up correctly.

 

[UncleBanjo]

I went ahead and took the distributor out to get a good solid test. Now that I have it out, what is the best way to test it? Also, took a pic of my multi-meter to show you the settings I can select to make sure I am on the right setting. Also, cant believe I didn't notice it before, but my old distributor cap is slightly melted where the middle plug connects. You will see it in the photos. What could cause that? A clue to what went wrong?

Thanks guys! I genuinely appreciate the help! Not sure what I'd do without you guys!!

 

[Alleycats]

Man that distr. has quite a bit of rust in it.

 

[UncleBanjo]

Man that distr. has quite a bit of rust in it.

Yea, thats what I though too! Also, I just switched my multimeter to the 2000 setting rather than the 200 and I am getting a solid 249 reading on G- to NE wire on distributor and getting a 1 or no reading on G- to G wire.

 

[jwilber]

With that cap being like that you might want to replace that and check continuity on the coil wire as i bet it is no good

 

[UncleBanjo]

With that cap being like that you might want to replace that and check continuity on the coil wire as i bet it is no good

I've already replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires.

 

[jonheld]

Yea, thats what I though too! Also, I just switched my multimeter to the 2000 setting rather than the 200 and I am getting a solid 249 reading on G- to NE wire on distributor and getting a 1 or no reading on G- to G wire.

Meter dial should be in the green section with the omega symbol (upside down U) and at the 2000 ohm scale.
Don't understand "1 or no reading" on your meter. Does it read an open or a short?
What does the meter read when you touch the 2 probe tips together? That's a short.
What does it read when the probes are not touching anything? That's an open.

 

[UncleBanjo]

I put the meter in the setting you specified and when I touch the two probes together I get a 000 reading and when the probes aren't touching anything, I get a 1. When I touch the G - G- I get a 1 reading. The other NE - G- I get a 249 reading. So one of the pickups has an open loop? Is that determinate of a bad distributor?

I also touch one of the wires and then touch the base of the distributor while spinning the gear and it reads an open loop (a reading of 1).

 

[jonheld]

I put the meter in the setting you specified and when I touch the two probes together I get a 000 reading and when the probes aren't touching anything, I get a 1. When I touch the G - G- I get a 1 reading. The other NE - G- I get a 249 reading. So one of the pickups has an open loop? Is that determinate of a bad distributor?

I also touch one of the wires and then touch the base of the distributor while spinning the gear and it reads an open loop (a reading of 1).

OK, so it looks like the G coil is open. "1" means infinite or open. Spinning the rotor is meaningless here. You're measuring across the pick up coils themselves.
Given the physical appearance of the distributor I would simply replace it with a used unit. Any 3FE distributor will work from an 89 FJ62 through 92 FJ80. All the same part number. Talk to @arcteryx Jason @ Cruiseryard.com for all your used parts needs. He's a good human.

 

[UncleBanjo]

Awesome!! We found the culprit. Thanks man! So would a new one from my local parts store not be good?

 

[arcteryx]

Talk to @arcteryx Jason @ Cruiseryard.com for all your used parts needs. He's a good human.

thanks jon!

Awesome!! We found the culprit. Thanks man! So would a new one from my local parts store not be good?

I don't believe I have any 3FEs currently. I'd personally go for a used Toyota over a reman'd chinese one.

 

[UncleBanjo]

Awesome! Thanks guys! What about a new one and not a reman'd one? Is it just longevity or will it not run as smooth and good?

What about a new one like this: Richporter Technology TY35 - Distributor | O'Reilly Auto Parts