Builds 1987 FJ60 Expedition Build (2 Viewers)

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Did you ever get the front bumper fixed? I just might have a clean 70 series front bumper sitting here with brackets that will work with the 60 series. Let's talk man!
 
Will,

What is the part number on your compressor? I got a reman one and it works but is noisy..
Ill track it down for you. Its a 4runner compressor I believe. Ill find it though.
 
Did you ever get the front bumper fixed? I just might have a clean 70 series front bumper sitting here with brackets that will work with the 60 series. Let's talk man!
I havent fixed the bumper yet, but I might replace it with a 4plus or another style of bumper. But if I choose to go with something stock, Ill be sure to get in touch! You got a rough price in mind?
 
More drawer progress.

The drawers are fully assembled, and they open, close, latch, and lock. The basic system is now good to go, and in the next couple days I will be installing my 100watt, 12volt solar panel, third battery, and Waeco CFX50 fridge.

More updates to come.





 
Solar system is done!

First off, I got my solar system all put together.
The panel is mounted to a homemade roof rack, then runs to the rear where I installed a charge controller. Then I installed a third battery under the rear driver's side beside the spare tire, bolted to the frame.
That third battery runs the fridge completely independently. Unfortunately I didnt take any photos of that whole system, but I did take photos of the rack and panel





 
Then we did some work on the kitchen and got it all put together.
Fridge, drawer, cutting board, stove, and sinks are all in.
I've already used the fridge for a bunch of work-related trips this summer. Being able to go out on the ranch for a day and always have cold water and food even in 100 degree temperatures was amazing.









More details on the kitchen setup, propane system, and "finalization" to come.

I plan to carpet the top of the drawer system.
 
I'm glad all your setup works nicely, but please tell me you're going to redo that roof rack! Get those outer clamp parts bent instead of welded, and use some nice tube instead of threaded conduit. Don't want to be harsh but you have potential man!
 
I'm glad all your setup works nicely, but please tell me you're going to redo that roof rack! Get those outer clamp parts bent instead of welded, and use some nice tube instead of threaded conduit. Don't want to be harsh but you have potential man!
It was necessary to keep things in budget (unfortunately)
And as for bent vs welded, I didn't see any real advantage so I just welded them. This rack is only temporary to hold the solar panel
 
Awesome job stud! Looking forward to see all that new stuff.:cheers::clap:
 
Cruiser 1

Dodge neon zero

I hope your frame is still straight.
 
Hey guys. I have another question.

So after I did my rear drums and shoes, my brakes just havent been the same. Some of it I attribute to the new master cylinder, but I could really use some advice.

Problem 1: Braking power is low. No matter how hard I slam on the brake, none of the wheels will lock up. Im not sure this is a particularly bad thing because its almost "budget" anti-lock braking. Should I try to remedy this? The braking power is decent, but the tires definitely wont lock up unless I absolutely crush the brake pedal. Should I bleed the whole system again?

Problem 2: The rear drums seemed to be a bit loose. Before today my e-brake really didnt work all that well. It would do a decent job of holding me on a hill, but not great. In order to really "lock it up", I had to first press the brake peddle, then crank on the ebrake, even after I tightened the adjustment nut down quite a ways and it was hard to pull the handle.

CURRENT Problem: I have tightened the shoes. The E-brake now works about 60% better, and can hold me on almost any hill. However, the shoes might be TOO tight now, as it is very difficult to push the car on flat ground by myself.

I did a roll test (went down a small hill in neutral with brakes off to see how much resistance there was), and after the shoe adjustment, though I gained better braking, I drastically increased my rear drum resistance, and Im afraid that I will wear them out.

Any thoughts?

Thank you all in advance
 
First question I will ask is this.
Did you bled the brakes right?
According to the FSM.
the Shoe clearance is .06mm (0.024 in)

Pulled from my manual (scanned for you!)
 
I re-did my rear brakes recently. Thought that my master was going out on me after replacing everything else. My e-brake was also pointless after replacing parts, not braking at all.

I followed the FSM and brought the rear axle up on jack stands. Tightened the star adjustment wheels up until they the rear wheels wouldn't turn. Then back the adjusters back 3-4 clicks.

After doing this I was able to lock up the tears on dry pavement.
 
Did you bench bled the MC?
What sequence did you follow on the bleeding of the brakes.
I believe you do the
LR tire first
RR tire second
LF tire third
RF tire last.

You might want to pull apart those bell cranks and see that these are clean, and or put some lube in them. Also check that cable, and ditto on what the post above says.....
 

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