Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration (5 Viewers)

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Purchased a @topnault hood because mine requires quite a bit of hours. I wanted to see them side by side and see how the fit was.

Good: It is a hood. Seems to have great primer and is heavy duty steel.

Bad: There is only one packing cushion on the bottom (rear of the hood/cowl side). This slid to one side during shipping which allowed the driver side corner to rest on the ground/take impact. The damage didn't look that bad at first, but it essentially pushed the corner in.
Second, the air cooling gills are cut/stamped with a serrated press which will require you to file each one smooth. Last, the sides/edges of the hood buldge and are not a smooth line (the line that sits on either the driver or passenger side and rests on the fender apron). OEM hoods are laser straight on both sides. I would assume this is due to having to press/work with a heavier gauge steel? The foam-like glue used on the cowl support area on the underside of the hood is sub-par and should be something like a 3M heavy bodied seam sealer.
The hinge points at the cowl are pressed down, creating a "dish".
The "pinch" at the cowl is also not uniform and has several indentations. This, when lined up with the cowl creates several noticeable "dents".

Photos below.

Overall I'd give it a 4/10. Usable....but with a lot of work...and the lines/curves are off and there are several areas of improvement that would need to occur before it could be painted and installed on a cruiser you are care about. We all have looked at FJ40's for years, and anything that is out of line sticks out - we know every curve on these things. I refuse to just paint this and slap it on my FJ40. It is more work to fix this than correct my original one.

Customer Service? A 10% discount offered that I have yet to see. Not happy. Will never purchase from them again. I have a giant 700$ paper weight. Unless someone in the NorthEast has a rusted mess of a hood and want something that LOOKS LIKE A HOOD......?

Hinge points are "Pressed down" creating a dish. OEM is perfectly flat. This photo also shows the wavy pinch points along the trailing edge:

IMG_4487.jpeg


More waves along the cowl edge. I mean.....is filler expected here?

IMG_4488.jpeg


When this painted and in clear.....this will look like the hood was flipped back and the hinges stressed. Again, sub-par.


IMG_4484.jpeg


Rear corner pinches and the buldge of the curve:

IMG_4485.jpeg


Sticks out from the cowling ON BOTH SIDES - 1/2" (I have the hood square on the truck). You can also see the serration on the gills:

IMG_4475.jpeg


IMG_4486.jpeg



IMG_4449.jpeg


Foam "glue".....?

IMG_4446.jpeg


IMG_4443.jpeg


Back to the drawing board.

IMG_4460.jpeg
 
Oof…

I opted early on to be a guinea pig with their floor pans, they were unusable. To their credit, they retooled, made thicker floor pans, packed well and sent me an updated set for free while refunding my original cost.

I would think they would’ve learned by now. This hood is a joke and if they keep pumping out garbage like this it won’t be long before they’re gone.
 
Real bummer about the hood. But for both the consumers on here via Mud and the manufacturer your detailed thoughts and comparisons are extremely helpful and useful. Hopefully TPA will do the right thing for you and try to more closely match the OEM hood for future purchasers.

For my own situation as a consumer that will eventually purchase a 3/4 tub from TPA or Aqualu feedback like this definitely pushes me away from TPA especially with an expensive purchase.

Sorry that you had to “bite the bullet” and find out the hard way. But thank you again for the detailed feedback.
 
Real bummer about the hood. But for both the consumers on here via Mud and the manufacturer your detailed thoughts and comparisons are extremely helpful and useful. Hopefully TPA will do the right thing for you and try to more closely match the OEM hood for future purchasers.

For my own situation as a consumer that will eventually purchase a 3/4 tub from TPA or Aqualu feedback like this definitely pushes me away from TPA especially with an expensive purchase.

Sorry that you had to “bite the bullet” and find out the hard way. But thank you again for the detailed feedback.
Before you do, I was going to get a 3/4 tub from TP Auto and I found out that Relik Garage has these made for them and they just mark them up I bought mine from Relik Garage. So far it seems good. It will need some work but so did my original tub. See my 1964 Build thread for pics.
 
Purchased a @topnault hood because mine requires quite a bit of hours. I wanted to see them side by side and see how the fit was.

Good: It is a hood. Seems to have great primer and is heavy duty steel.

Bad: There is only one packing cushion on the bottom (rear of the hood/cowl side). This slid to one side during shipping which allowed the driver side corner to rest on the ground/take impact. The damage didn't look that bad at first, but it essentially pushed the corner in.
Second, the air cooling gills are cut/stamped with a serrated press which will require you to file each one smooth. Last, the sides/edges of the hood buldge and are not a smooth line (the line that sits on either the driver or passenger side and rests on the fender apron). OEM hoods are laser straight on both sides. I would assume this is due to having to press/work with a heavier gauge steel? The foam-like glue used on the cowl support area on the underside of the hood is sub-par and should be something like a 3M heavy bodied seam sealer.
The hinge points at the cowl are pressed down, creating a "dish".
The "pinch" at the cowl is also not uniform and has several indentations. This, when lined up with the cowl creates several noticeable "dents".

Photos below.

Overall I'd give it a 4/10. Usable....but with a lot of work...and the lines/curves are off and there are several areas of improvement that would need to occur before it could be painted and installed on a cruiser you are care about. We all have looked at FJ40's for years, and anything that is out of line sticks out - we know every curve on these things. I refuse to just paint this and slap it on my FJ40. It is more work to fix this than correct my original one.

Customer Service? A 10% discount offered that I have yet to see. Not happy. Will never purchase from them again. I have a giant 700$ paper weight. Unless someone in the NorthEast has a rusted mess of a hood and want something that LOOKS LIKE A HOOD......?

Hinge points are "Pressed down" creating a dish. OEM is perfectly flat. This photo also shows the wavy pinch points along the trailing edge:

View attachment 3466371

More waves along the cowl edge. I mean.....is filler expected here?

View attachment 3466370

When this painted and in clear.....this will look like the hood was flipped back and the hinges stressed. Again, sub-par.


View attachment 3466374

Rear corner pinches and the buldge of the curve:

View attachment 3466373

Sticks out from the cowling ON BOTH SIDES - 1/2" (I have the hood square on the truck). You can also see the serration on the gills:

View attachment 3466375

View attachment 3466372


View attachment 3466377

Foam "glue".....?

View attachment 3466378

View attachment 3466379

Back to the drawing board.

View attachment 3466376

I reported the same issues to the factory with very harsh words. I know they took it seriously.

Regarding the 10% discount, did we have any misunderstanding? We are serious on customer services and shopping experience— have you communicated with any of our sales person regarding your issues? You can always call us or chat with us. You can also send us emails, and we are always on top of things except we are temporary tied up.

We are not perfect, but please allow us to take care of issues — we made up almost every single mistakes and all we need is communications directly with us.

Tim
 
Oof…

I opted early on to be a guinea pig with their floor pans, they were unusable. To their credit, they retooled, made thicker floor pans, packed well and sent me an updated set for free while refunding my original cost.

I would think they would’ve learned by now. This hood is a joke and if they keep pumping out garbage like this it won’t be long before they’re gone.
To expand on this post, Tim really does care about customer service and they did me right in the end.
More so than I was expecting by far.

Tim @topnault, if pieces like this hood are making it out your door or even to your door in the first place then there is definitely a QC issue at play here.

I’m rooting for you to succeed, but I’m curious how this gentleman’s hood would compare to the one on the full body you are showing at SEMA? I’m guessing that one is pretty perfect.

Where is the disconnect?

Ian
 
I put this information in an updated chat yesterday evening. @topnault you have my name, order number (1107) and likely chat history when I provided the initial information and pictures and was told "Tim has agreed to provide you with a 10% discount." This was a week ago, I tried to chat with you and work this out. I would screen shot it, but the history of the chat is missing.

Honestly, I don't really want any war here - especially in my restoration thread. I just wanted to post the truth about the hood, the specifics and what actually happened.

I realize with this FJ40, I am being a bit fussy on the details.....I have worked extremely hard to make this as factory perfect as I can - so these details matter.

If you are willing to fix it - great! I am happy to talk offline, again...you have my details and I have provided updates to the "Chat" function on the Topnault website.

Now....moving forward I am still trying to figure out what to do. Old hood repaired, or another version of Topnault.

@topnault - I am willing to be your tester, but shipping to Long Island is probably a pain. However, if you could address:

1. If the hood hinge attachment points are not "punched down" creating a dish.
2. If the rolled seam all along the back of the hood (along the cowl) was even and smooth (not pinched creating waves).
3. If the edges of the hood did not bulge outward from the cowl on both sides and were completely straight from the rear corner to the front corner.
4. If a more "heavy bodied" seam sealer was used as a glue along the bracing on the underside of the hood.

Boom - you'd have the next version, and likely a very good one.
 
@dmaddox
I’ve followed your outstanding build from the beginning and have been constantly floored by the bar you are setting with your truck.

This is no bash on Topnault, QC notwithstanding, nor to you for your decisions, but I’d think you’d try and find a good OEM hood replacement off another truck and work with that?

For my rig, it doesn’t feel wrong to throw Chinese made aftermarket floor pans in, but when it came to my original cheesed out hood, I searched until I found a reasonable match. Even now, I want to attempt to restore my original hood as I get better at body work.

The hood is such a centerpiece and from my armchair quarterback chair, I would love to see you go original.

I’m sure you’ve thought of all this but just thought I’d chime in from the peanut gallery…

Ian
 
Ian - I appreciate it!! I agree completely - and my wife even mentioned the same thing - that I've worked so hard on this thing to get it all correct, why not go the extra mile with the hood?

I'll keep my eye out - problem is hoods are incredibly difficult to ship!
There is a CL ad in Gallup, NM that has a pretty good hood listed. I’m actually going up to my land in the next month or so and could grab it, bring it back to Texas and then we could figure out how to daisy chain it over to you.

Nolan bought a hood from me and that’s basically what we did, albeit, half the distance and it was during Roundup but you’ve got fans and we’re willing to help.

Lemme find the ad..
 
I put this information in an updated chat yesterday evening. @topnault you have my name, order number (1107) and likely chat history when I provided the initial information and pictures and was told "Tim has agreed to provide you with a 10% discount." This was a week ago, I tried to chat with you and work this out. I would screen shot it, but the history of the chat is missing.

Honestly, I don't really want any war here - especially in my restoration thread. I just wanted to post the truth about the hood, the specifics and what actually happened.

I realize with this FJ40, I am being a bit fussy on the details.....I have worked extremely hard to make this as factory perfect as I can - so these details matter.

If you are willing to fix it - great! I am happy to talk offline, again...you have my details and I have provided updates to the "Chat" function on the Topnault website.

Now....moving forward I am still trying to figure out what to do. Old hood repaired, or another version of Topnault.

@topnault - I am willing to be your tester, but shipping to Long Island is probably a pain. However, if you could address:

1. If the hood hinge attachment points are not "punched down" creating a dish.
2. If the rolled seam all along the back of the hood (along the cowl) was even and smooth (not pinched creating waves).
3. If the edges of the hood did not bulge outward from the cowl on both sides and were completely straight from the rear corner to the front corner.
4. If a more "heavy bodied" seam sealer was used as a glue along the bracing on the underside of the hood.

Boom - you'd have the next version, and likely a very good one.

I feel sorry for what has happened. If you don’t mind, I will contact you after the SEMA show to see what we can do for you…
 
@dmaddox, I assume you've tried the usual northeast options for cruiser parts? Thinking of Cruiserparts.net in NH, Wally in VT (doesn't do the web) or Kina (@cruiserland). You might also try Lance and team at Iron Pig Offroad in the DC area. Also maybe post in the thread for my New England club: ||| Official YT For Sale/Trade/Wanted Thread ||| - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/official-yt-for-sale-trade-wanted-thread.277901/

Just some thoughts. Good luck, loving this build and also the podcast episode.
 
I have a lead on a hood in Pennsylvania - but it's out in Pittsburgh. I'm looking to see if someone is traveling from Pitts to Philly in the next week or two, as I'll be in Philly on the 18/19th of November. (I posted on MudShip). Fingers crossed, but worse case I'll just have to make the 10 hour drive.

Awaiting details and photos of the hood to see if the trip is worth it - will post what I can find out.

Crazy to think of how close I am with this. Exhaust, hood and top. So close. Then, just driving it and weeding out any bugs that may pop up.

I really meant what I said on the pod cast - you are all such a great group. Lucky to have this forum.
 
Classic Landcruisers Podcast. There is a thread from mtn biker on the podcast. I don’t have a link but easy to find here or Spotify, etc
 
I was thinking the aftermarket body parts would hurt good original rust free parts, but maybe not? Been looking for a good 1980 hood for about a year now! Was considering an aftermarket one, but after your analysis, I will wait for a factory one, or maybe they will make it right!
 
I was thinking the aftermarket body parts would hurt good original rust free parts, but maybe not? Been looking for a good 1980 hood for about a year now! Was considering an aftermarket one, but after your analysis, I will wait for a factory one, or maybe they will make it right!
I found 3 decent hoods for my ‘80 in a year or so.
One was red, bought it.
One matched my green, bought that and sold the red one to Nolen.
Passed on an even better green one because I want the challenge of making this one right.

I’ll keep an eye out for you.
 

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