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1976 '40 Resto/Buildup

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Ullr, Feb 8, 2006.

  1. Ullr

    Ullr

    Messages:
    598
    Location:
    The Rockies or the Andes
    I have turned the corner on my project and am starting to rebuild it and decided to start a thread and post some pics of what I have been working on. I have actually been working on this project for almost a year on and off, but progress has been slow till now as first I moved, then I had knee surgery, and then ski season started (and I had to take the new knee for a test drive) :grinpimp:

    So, 1976 FJ-40 I have had for about 4 years with about a 4" SUA and 33's, Aussie in the rear, Armstrong steering, and a total rustbucket but I love it. I am repairing/restoring the body but not going for completely stock. Also:

    SOA on stock 40 springs
    5/85 FJ 60 Tranny and t-case
    FJ-60 PS / FJ 60 PS Pump
    FJ-60 knuckles
    Spring reversal, with reversed and redrilled military wraps
    OME greasable anti-inversion shackles
    Hi-steer (probably 4x4 labs, TBD)
    4.7 Toybox
    Electronic ignition
    Softop/doors
    Custom rear tailgate
    Family cage
    Sliders
    Aisin hubs
    Custom driveshafts (TBD)
    37x12.5 MTR's
    Longfields inners and birfs in front
    Poly Performance rears
    Aussie rear
    ARB front
    Fine spline 4.11's front and rear
    CO2
    Fuzzy Dice

    I want to keep it as Toyota as possible, so no v8's etc, I just want to spring it over, add PS, and get lower gearing for these CO trails.

    I did a thread when I rebuilt the floor so i won't repost that part here. Here are some "before" pics and a shot of where I am right now.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 30, 2007
  2. Ullr

    Ullr

    Messages:
    598
    Location:
    The Rockies or the Andes
    Frame repairs, the front crossmember was badly rusted. I shopped around a bit looking for a replacement crossmember but was out there drinking beer one night and decided to just weld in new metal. The bottom of the crossmember was two layers of appx 1/8" steel riveted together, so I cut the rusted section out and replaced it with 1/4" steel. Fixed a small patch with some 1/8" too.

    The final shot is the finished product all ground down... notice theres no shot of the welds? Too many :beer:'s during fabrication :grinpimp: :flipoff2:

    Attached Files:

  3. Ullr

    Ullr

    Messages:
    598
    Location:
    The Rockies or the Andes
    The rear shackle hangers were fubar. I don't know if you can tell from the first pic, but the rust between the plate the hanger attaches to and the frame had expanded to about 5/8", bending the plate downwards.

    Attached Files:

  4. Ullr

    Ullr

    Messages:
    598
    Location:
    The Rockies or the Andes
    So I flipped the frame and pulled them off, the passenger side one was repairable, the driver side (second pic) was not.

    Attached Files:

  5. Ullr

    Ullr

    Messages:
    598
    Location:
    The Rockies or the Andes
    So I made a new plate out of 3/16" and used 3/16" rod to make "rivets" to line it all up and help hold it together. I was able to reuse the original shackle hanger itself.

    Attached Files:

  6. Ullr

    Ullr

    Messages:
    598
    Location:
    The Rockies or the Andes
    i didn't really trust my wanna-be rivets on the new hanger plate or just welding the old rivets on the old plate, so I welded everything in hard.

    Attached Files:

  7. rutbeer

    rutbeer

    Messages:
    1,754
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Nice work there boss man!
  8. bandy rooster

    bandy rooster

    Messages:
    1,925
    Location:
    Sunny South
    good work, nice welds by the way.

    that is a pretty serious axle carrier you have built.... you must have built that when steel was cheaper! lol


    what prep's did you take to ensure that the shackle hanger was not welded cock-eyed? just followed your previous rivit hole pattern?
  9. Ullr

    Ullr

    Messages:
    598
    Location:
    The Rockies or the Andes
    I built the axle jig out of some c-channel I had leftover from a misguided attempt to build a bumper. The base is actually the base for the bender. I figured the bench vise wasn't going to work and followed Josh's (JCB_Elwood) advice and built the jig to make it easier on myself.

    Yeah I just used the rivet holes to line it all up.
  10. wesintl

    wesintl

    Messages:
    4,463
    Location:
    Highlands "F'n" Ranch
    AWESOME Ian.... I need to come bend some tube one night :)

    Those welds look really nice.
  11. Ullr

    Ullr

    Messages:
    598
    Location:
    The Rockies or the Andes
    Turning the driveway into a purple beach. I used 30/40 garnet on the frame, zero risk of silicosis and reusable. What a PITA though :doh:

    By a remarkable coincidence it was right about the time I started sandblasting in the driveway that the neighbors stopped talking to me. :flipoff2:

    Attached Files:


  12. Ullr

    Ullr

    Messages:
    598
    Location:
    The Rockies or the Andes
    Ok its decision time. I want to go with a Toybox, but since I am upgrading to a Toybox should I upgrade to a split case at the same time? I know the split case is better but it will require a parking brake kit, especially since I am doing the RDB conversion. So now I am at Toybox + split case + parking brake kit... its getting really expensive. :doh:

    So how bad is my stock case with a t-case saver? Is it really that bad that I should drop so much more money to go split case? Is the lower gearing in a Toybox going to increase the likelihood of t-case breakage? :confused:
  13. cruiserhead

    cruiserhead

    Messages:
    693
    Location:
    North Jersey
    I`ve read here on the board that a transfer case with a saver is as strong as a split case.HTH.Keep up the good work.
  14. bustanutley

    bustanutley

    Messages:
    2,287
    Location:
    denver
    cruiserhead, I really don't buy that, people snap the nose cones on the earlier cases all the time.
  15. foxfab

    foxfab

    Messages:
    3,424
    Location:
    Hope Valley, RI
  16. bandy rooster

    bandy rooster

    Messages:
    1,925
    Location:
    Sunny South
    ever thought of just using a line lock instead of the parking brake? or is there another reason for the parking brake kit?
  17. jjhancock

    jjhancock

    Messages:
    335
    Location:
    Boulder, CO
    Looks great man, keep up the good work. Who cares what the neighbors think, I wouldn't! I can't answer the t/c question for you, although I seem to recall reading on the forum here at some point that people weren't that impressed wiht the Toybox. Food for thought... Gitter done!!!
  18. Ullr

    Ullr

    Messages:
    598
    Location:
    The Rockies or the Andes
    No, becuase I don't know what a line lock is. Can you give me some more details? Search turned up nada. :cheers:
  19. bustanutley

    bustanutley

    Messages:
    2,287
    Location:
    denver
    ian, line lock locks your hydraulics on your brakes

    they are super cool for hotroders cause they can lock just their front wheels and do burnouts from hell.
  20. edgemonster

    edgemonster

    Messages:
    48
    Location:
    19.641ºN 155.996ºW
    2 types of line locks manual and electrical (aka; mico lock, parking lock, parking brake valve, hydraulic lock......) . I've used the one from Jamar and don't care for it due to rusting of parts in my environment. I'm going to redo my brakes within the next month and replace the Jamar (2 years old) with Swagelok version.

    Jamar;
    http://jamarperformance.com/TheRealm/shop_detail.asp?product_catID=Brake Accs.&product_id=147

    Swagelok;
    http://www.downeyoff-road.com/ChassisComponents/DiscBrakes_02.html

    Electric;
    http://store.summitracing.com/defau...eywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp

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