Shop Insulation? (1 Viewer)

[splitshot]

Anyone have experience with Prodex?

Reflective Insulation For Metal Buildings, Pole Barns and Houses

Installing radiant barrier in attic : Install radiant barrier : How to insulate an attic, Installation of reflective insulation in an attic

Same R value as my current fiberglass but without the hassle of the paper tearing loose and hanging batts (and the fun job of replacing them).

 

[Delancy]

Where is the R value listed?

 

[Traakon]

I looked at every metal building insulation option out there for mine and settled on R30 fiberglass bat.

None of the other options had any significant and proven performance other than sprayed in foam and that was just not in my budget.

My insulating project is nearly done, still have 3 roof sections to do and then the surface materials but the AZ summer just killed my functional work period. Should be back at it by the end of the month.

Shop Insulation

• Traakon
• Oct 3, 2015

Shop Insulation

• Traakon
• Oct 3, 2015

R-30 fiberglass bat.

 

[splitshot]

Where is the R value listed?

1st link, but after more online research there is some that say this is bogus. I am tending to agree so far (13/64=R19?).

I have seen this on commercial jobs and might be the way to go:

FSK-25 Batts | JM.com

Kraft paper bats suck if left in rafters for over 10 years unless sheeted over.

 

[firestopper]

I have a buddy that used Prodex in his metal building, while its better than nothing, it does not come close to the comfort level of our metal building with R-30 (statically). The exterior color will also make a difference on how hot the building gets. Installation can be done done a couple of ways, we went with clips and wire 16" oc. with a scrim sheet cover. Being that your from AZ, I can tell you, this works very well whit the correct sized swamp cooler. We get 27-30 degree pull down most of the time during the summer months, slightly less during monsoon. Mild winters in Tucson, but it still drops down in the high 20's low 30's with the inside temps around 42-45 degrees. A 85K BTU propane salamander heater running for 10-15 min with the doors closed at the start of the day is all it takes to make it comfy for me. (I don't like to work with layers of clothes). Spend as much as you can afford to achieve your comfort zone. Don't forget your garage doors as they will transfer heat if not insulated as well.

Buy once, cry once.

 

[Rugy]

Am a GC and have build over 100 homes in the Vancouver CA area.
One of my new subtrades (HVAC) tried to bring the foil backed bubble insulation on the site stating high R values of the foil product.
Have a Milwaukee Thermal Imaging gun/camera and showed how useless the product is/was.
Stick to fibreglass or Roxul, both are proven.
The closed cell sprayfoam is the best but it's pricey.

 

[jynx]

Sounds like everyone else has already weighed in, but I agree. I put it on under the roofing on my pole barn to help with condensation, but for insulation I am leaning towards a DIY kit to put an inch of closed cell on the metal and then putting batt in the built out walls.

 

[Delancy]

The bubble wrap is a radiant barrier with little to no measure able R value. Haven't found much benefit to using in any enclosed metal building that'll be climate controlled.....not much benefit to those that aren't, beyond its stated purpose of radiating heat outward from the subsurface of metal roofing panels.

The issue with unprotected batt insulation in a single skin metal exterior is the inability to mitigate moisture that occurs on the bottom of the metal panelling. Moisture accumulates on the panel, then the fiberglass which not only decreases its ability to retain, but has been said to be a mold growth area.

Wrapping a cold can of favorite beverage up in it on a warm days illustrates an accelerated process of the batting becoming moisture laden and in a roof application, the moisture has little means to escape.

Vapor barrier characteristics of the insulation are as important as retention and typically is on the bottom of the insulation in steel buildings, because the framing itself is thermally conductive, therefore more surfaces to allow sweating to occur.

The issue with the very costly spray on is in preparation. Most failures I've seen of the product are a result of improper cleaning of the substrate, due to the residue left during the rolling process, but also its inability to expand and contract, as all metal roofs do, fatiguing over a period of time.

There are high end batt insulation systems with a finished face that acts as the vapor barrier and in the most extreme environments, perform well. (In most instances, unless the HVAC system fails for any period of time in a structure housing a pool. Not good)

Ultimate solution to pre-engineered metal buildings is pre-insulated panelling, but very expensive still and until federally mandated efficiency standards are adopted, won't become any cheaper.

3" reinforced vinyl backed metal building insulation installed between panels and sub structural is an absolute minimum, in my opinion, then batt insulation could be added below. Not ideal, per industry standards, but a huge improvement.

Having been in the industry since '93, with experiences of many different systems, on commercial property I own, I metal band the bottom of the substructural, roll faced insulation in the cavity, securing backing to bottom of purlins (vapor barrier) then unfaced perpendicular to sub structure. It's not a measurable R system, since application procedures are a huge part of its efficiency, but, during the hottest summers, cooling 36k SF averages $700-800 more than any given month of winter, with the equivalent of an R-30 batt (6" cavity/6" batt).