Builds 40 Series Chassis, 80 Series Suspension - Kept it Simply (2 Viewers)

[watrob]

The next time I come across a used set of Toyota calipers I will drill the top and place a bleed nipple in, but with these 4 pot calipers a little air is not going to cause much of a problem.

In the mean time, a one time bleed by taking off the caliper, placing a piece of timber between the pads and holding it the right way up is no big deal?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

The next time I come across a used set of Toyota calipers I will dill the top and place a bleed nipple in, but with these 4 pot calipers a little air is not going to cause much of a problem.

In the mean time, a one time bleed by taking off the caliper, placing a piece of timber between the pads and holding it the right way up is no big deal?

a little air... I hope not, but honestly, if you use a pressure pot to bleed the system; you shouldn't end up with any air at all.

holding them upside down is no problem as long as you put the block in place - only ask how I know this if you want to hear good, old fashion swearing... it wasn't pretty. Fortunately, the brake fluid didn't stay on the fresh paint long... and I would have blown that paint off anyway with the wonton burnouts that car was known for...

You might have over-braked the back... 4 piston on the rear is a lot of clamping force. I have a 83 Chevrolet 4x4 truck that I put disks on the back because I haul way too much with it - and it works awesome when it's loaded... but since the front and rear calipers are interchangeable, I have about 30% too much braking in the rear when unloaded. That causes 2 problems, 1 - the obvious one, you lock up on everything from mildly dusty and slicker; and 2) you overheat the rear brakes because when you stop you drag the rear brakes to stop the vehicle when it should actually be the front brakes. For me, it's something I deal with because it's only unloaded once every 10 years... but it does go through brake pads faster in the rear than the front. You can bandaid that issue by using more aggressive pads in the front, and long-lasting pads in the rear... but it's just a bandaid. In the end, you'll probably end up with simple 2 pots in the rear and put those 4 pots in the front (if you're anything like me, it takes replacing 2 sets of pads or 5000 miles - they start squeeking because the pads will crack from over heating)... as I said, I'm living this.

 

[watrob]

The vehicle is permanently on the beach so the rotors get a hiding from the salt. These rotors currently installed are only required until Christmas when my 316 stainless steel rotors should be ready.

Also running 33" 8ply tyres with pretty heavy duty painted 16"x8" alloys and being on the beach I like the how the rear brakes apply heavier than the fronts, and I also tow a 478kg jet-ski. The rear rotors are solids and I have the same install on my current leaf spring 40, after a couple months the rear settles down, we are only allowed to do 80kph on the beach anyway?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

no worries - what I said above is simply my opinion and people annoyingly prove it wrong more often than I like to admit. You do have a different use, mine locks up most often when I'm hard on the brakes - and I'm generally going a multiple or 3 faster than 80kph.

 

[watrob]

If your just cruising along the beach at 70kph, there is not much emergency braking going on. Usually the beach sand alone pulls you up.

I am nearly ready to start another build, again a 12Ht, 5 speed, 43 series fibreglass tub, galvanised chassis with coils all round. But have found this, has a 91" wheel base and all the chassis coil stuff is already done this time.

Picked it up last week.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I actually printed out that picture and am using it for reference for the 3 and 4 link suspension I'm doing to mine. I like coil-overs, but coil springs and shocks are a lot cheaper than coil-overs - plus, most manufacturers spent a lot of time making this stuff right and it's pretty arrogant to think I can do it better in my shop (okay, there are exceptions... but still, it gives me such a great starting point that it'd be foolish for me to ignore it).

 

[BOOSTED80]

A 70 Bundy chassis ..will this be a road version watrob ?

 

[watrob]

No, another beach version, will install 80 series coils and Fox shocks, plate up the coil hats a little for strength, galvanise everything, install another 12HT with 5 speed, running alloy's with 32" tyres and a 43 series fibreglass sports tub, Lokka rear diff & e-locker front, ratio is 4:55. Sports tub being built but won't be ready until Feb 2015 so I am busy buying & scrounging parts, have 90% so far.

All I need now is a long range fuel tank, two front sports racing seats (have the rear bench seat), build a steel roll cage and get another ARB bulbar and rebuild a 5 speed gearbox and another 300 hours and it should be finished.

In the mean time I am finishing off the other build over the next couple weekends.

 

[White Stripe]

The vehicle is permanently on the beach so the rotors get a hiding from the salt. These rotors currently installed are only required until Christmas when my 316 stainless steel rotors should be ready.

Also running 33" 8ply tyres with pretty heavy duty painted 16"x8" alloys and being on the beach I like the how the rear brakes apply heavier than the fronts, and I also tow a 478kg jet-ski. The rear rotors are solids and I have the same install on my current leaf spring 40, after a couple months the rear settles down, we are only allowed to do 80kph on the beach anyway?

I use a harbor freight vacuum bleeder for bleeding brakes. (30.00$)On something like yours, I would pump the pedal ten or 20 times each caliper with the vacuum bleeder working. This helps dislodge any air in the master. I imagine you have a proportioning valve so you can fine tune the rear. Try hard to ensure you don't have any air in the system-its important because air can cause some funky issues and will make it impossible to finely tune the brakes with the proportioning valve. Try and dial it in for all uses, that way your not scared to take it on the street if you want to for some reason. Plus you've gone to all the trouble in putting on a nice brake system so far, not too hard to finish it nicely.

 

[watrob]

Well the truck arrived with a lift crane and 2 hours later the fibreglass body was on the new chassis, re-installed the finished roll cage, connected brakes & clutch.

I am pretty happy with the overall height, a good 2" lift, there is probably another 200kgs plus of weight still to go back in, 110ltr fuel tank under front seats, bucket seats, battery cradle & battery, steering wheel & column plus shafts, air cleaner, twin horns, front guards & supports, bonnet, bib, bulbar with driving lights and final the rear bumperettes.
The body centred well as you can see the rear wheels are pretty close to centre of the rear wheel arch, the overall wheel base is 92.6"

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

that looks awesome.

 

[watrob]

Here a photo match of what the tub & wheel base looked like on the leaf spring setup.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I love the longer body, and it keeps me thinking about extending the wheelbase of my 40

 

[watrob]

Have order 2 x 6 Cree Led Spot Lights, they are 75mm x 75mm square and will fit in the square holes of my ARB bulbar, which are also 75mm x 75mm.

 

[Pacer]

I've got the same holes on my fj62 arb. Please post up a link and installation details.
So close, good luck.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

You know, they make a flat, face attaching version of that light?

 

[watrob]

You know, they make a flat, face attaching version of that light?

Have you got a photo?

 

[watrob]

Got a little bit more done over the weekend, bolted on and aligned the front guards & apron. Also did some wiring as the battery will now be on the left hand side and the air cleaner will be on the right.

Things left to do are, repaint the 110ltr fuel tank, I have removed the front seat frames and having them galvanised this week, also have to finish off the alloy battery cradle. Also changing the front lights to halogen and getting rid of the old sealed beams.

I will pull the apron & guards back off to repaint the internal side on them with a matt black paint, then re-attached the guards & apron along with bonnet and the ARB galvanised bulbar, extra driving lights and led flood lights in the base of the bulbar.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I do

they're a rigid light - if you don't want to spend rigid money, I'm sure there are knockoffs... here's the pirate link http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ligh...66-led-light-bars-light-pods-rock-lights.html

 

[watrob]

Mine just arrived by courier this morning, they fit neatly inside the opening in the ARB bulbar, I did not really want to drill into the bulbar since I have had it galvanised, epoxy etch primed and powder coated. They would be fine if I had of predrilled the bulbar before galvanising.