Full Floater Hub Stud Upgrade write up (1 Viewer)

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VETTE60 said:
simple: big tires with stock 8mm studs. there is a lot more torque on the studs with a larger diameter tire. especially when you ad lower gearing to the mix. when you break your studs, you will decide that you either continue to replace hubs and studs or you upgrade and mod. 20 and 30 years ago, 33's or 35's were as big as anyone ever went, at least with Toyota. now it seems that 35's are small and even my 37's don't seem that big anymore....
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Interesting. Most guys here ar running 33s, 35s and 4.88- 5.29 depending on rig size. Getting anything bigger than 35s means importing stuff from overseas. At what size do people start having this problem, 37s, 39s, bigger? Additionally, do folks find that this happening more while wheeling on rocks, some other terrain or out on the highway?
Thanks,
John
 
Volcano cruiser said:
Interesting. Most guys here ar running 33s, 35s and 4.88- 5.29 depending on rig size. Getting anything bigger than 35s means importing stuff from overseas. At what size do people start having this problem, 37s, 39s, bigger? Additionally, do folks find that this happening more while wheeling on rocks, some other terrain or out on the highway?
Thanks,
John
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pretty much anything more than 35's is when you see it, although one of my buddies broke a couple studs on his FF on the Rubicon this year in his FJ40. he runs 35's. he just did the mod but used 3/8" shouldered bolts. and I think primarily it is where you have good traction like on rocky trails.
 
36 TSLs, 350, dual transfer cases for 4:1.

Generally it's in 4:1 and I'm hitting something hard when they go.

Can't keep fronts in it. Blew a set of rears last time out.



Not anymore. :)
bigstudsfrt.jpg
bigstudsrear.jpg
 
Gumby, those look great!

Vette60, about that set of ARP's, let me know how much you want for them and I'll take them off your hands. Thanks for the offer!! PM or email me.
 
TBob said:
How is this mod holding up 3 years later?
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holding just fine. have not had a problem since the upgrade and I have wheeled the hell out of it.
 
I did this mod and I am having a hard time keeping them tight. Every time I go out they loosen up. I need to retorque them. I can drive around the block and come back and they would be loose. I'm torquing them to 80ft. But still they come loose. How are you guys keeping them tight?
 
I'd use loctite and a lock washer... But I'd like to here what they've used also.
 
I'm using a split lock collar underneath the head. I'd hate to use loctite.
 
Wrench said:
I did this mod and I am having a hard time keeping them tight. Every time I go out they loosen up. I need to retorque them. I can drive around the block and come back and they would be loose. I'm torquing them to 80ft. But still they come loose. How are you guys keeping them tight?
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have you still got the hub dowels, are they tight, are the dowel holes in the hub or axle or hub elongated? The dowels should be taking up the rotational torque/force not the studs.
 
Yup still have the hub dowels. They are tight.
 
Have you checked yours?
 
feedback on mine: previous owner did the same on my HZJ75, but with M8. It also started too loosen up. To be able to torque it more I got 12.9 hex bolts and torque also to 60ftlbs, still loosed up. Lost almost 3x the axle in Canada! Then started to use blue loctite, did hold up little bit longer, but also would loose up after about 2000-4000km. Then installed the studs back in and cone washers, but since the axle has a STRAIGHT hole from drilling the cone is only hold at the top edge and a little bit at the bottom. Now it looses up about after 10'000km. Got trailgear stud kit and 2 nuts at 30ftlbs (M8). Just broke 2 off last week. Although ALL were little bit loose. I guess because of it I broke it off.
My axles are more or less SCREWED UP! I don't think I have enough meat for the M10 Cone modification. Only thing I could do is make 6 NEW holes, but then I have an axle that looks like swiss cheese! Not sure if that would be smart.

I would NOT recommend this modification but change to M10 CONES as Toyota did on all 2001 and on 7series! They probably knew why! Also the dowel pin they increased to a bigger size!

The only thing I can't understand is WHY all other car brands I look at have NO cone washers and stupid Toyota's NEED them to keep the axles tight?!
 
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