Full Floater Hub Stud Upgrade write up (3 Viewers)

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Good to know! thanks guys I'm considering up grading while it's apart even though I haven't had an issue yet. I don't want to be trying to get sheared studs out 500k from home
 
I've pulled out the loose axle, stuffed a grocery bag in the hole, taped annother around the hub, locked the front hubs, and continued on my way. Good thing about 4WD is having redundant parts.
 
I wonder... if the studs arnt shearing just coming loose they could be braised into the threaded hole. They wouldent come loose again... if they did shear with heat they would still be removable. It would especially help in a well used hole that's lost thread material.
 
I wouldn't braze them... lock tight yes. The bolts I had wired didn't turn and come loose. They stretched just enough to loose the required torque. They then stretched more and more till they snapped off. :eek:


The heat would likely make them break sooner also.
 
45 wheels on 16" rims were very similar in size... the 45 donor had 10" of rear leafs so I think it wasn't babied. Had to beat the OEM setup to break it free.
 
the bolts are automotive grade. Harder than grade 8. I want to say they are 10.9 and agree that the stainless bolts would not be a good choice. my local hardware store in placerville had a whole case of them. this place has been around for 100 years and seems to be one of those gems that has absolutely friggin' everything.

Why are stainless bolts not a good choice? If going with the bigger bolts, do you still need the dowel pins? Just wondering because my dowel pins and stock 8mm bolts all broke and the holes for the dowel pins are elongated. I don't want to beef up the hubs just to later find the weakest point is now somewhere that can't be fixed out in the field.
 
Thanks for the info. I bought this FJ40 with the LS350 conversion already done. After shearing off the axle bolts, I'm kind of regretting not finding one with the stock motor or picking up a BJ40 instead.
 

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