Official 37" and up picture thread (1 Viewer)

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some 37s that are known to be way under size like BFGs.
I had some 37" BFG on my rig last year and they 35.5" 😂

This sounds really silly, presumably one wants the 37s for the size, not just to say I have 37s when I really have 35.5s

I think what Will has in mind can work, Move the axle forward, 3.3/4 to 4" back spacing on a 8" rim, 1'to 1.5" bump stop extiextensions, 2.5" to 3" lift and a Narrow 37" tire 10.5" at the tread.
 
I have 37x12x17 super swamper SX2s on my 80 and they barely measure 35 inches…another thing about big tires is they break parts..if your after the “look” and pound pavement big tires look awesome.

If you wanna wheel hard and keep the truck relatively reliable. I’d never run bigger than a short or full 37” tire on the 80 series axles. Even with RCVs front and rear. Keep the weight (mine weighs about 5450 pounds) and lift height low.. work on raising clearances from your skid plates and high clearance sliders. In my opinion rock crawlers need little up travel and lots of down travel to stay stable. My front suspension has been obviously modified but my rear suspension is just a 2” lift coil.

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Driving style plays just as big a part as tire size when it come to keeping your rig reliable on hard trails
 
15 years the consensus on this forum was that the slee 6" lift would be the only way to really clear a 37". 10 years ago it turned into a 4" lift with bump stop extensions and the proper wheel back spacing. Now a 2" lift is good enough.

There is no specs better than flex and no replacement for displacement....
The best way to clear 37s in these top heavy monstrosities is to not be afraid to modify the body. I'd rather chop fenders than go up to 6" springs on the kind of off kilter rocks we get on a lot of the trails in Colorado you start touching when you go to 37s
 
I had some 37" BFG on my rig last year and they 35.5" 😂

This sounds really silly, presumably one wants the 37s for the size, not just to say I have 37s when I really have 35.5s

I think what Will has in mind can work, Move the axle forward, 3.3/4 to 4" back spacing on a 8" rim, 1'to 1.5" bump stop extiextensions, 2.5" to 3" lift and a Narrow 37" tire 10.5" at the tread.


I have been thinking of buying a small 37 for my other 80. My friggin 315’s are 33”. 😑🤦‍♂️

Cheers
 
I have been thinking of buying a small 37 for my other 80. My friggin 315’s are 33”. 😑🤦‍♂️

Cheers
One of the many reasons I love my nitto trail grappler mt's. New and mounted on the truck they measured 34.5". That's a full 1.5" - 2" taller than any other 315/75-16 I have measured mounted on a vehicle.

Probably the reason they weigh 8lbs + more than any of their competitors.
 
The best way to clear 37s in these top heavy monstrosities is to not be afraid to modify the body. I'd rather chop fenders than go up to 6" springs on the kind of off kilter rocks we get on a lot of the trails in Colorado you start touching when you go to 37s
Absolutely, if you want 37's you should be wheeling hard enough to deserve them. If your wheeling that hard than don't be afraid of a little trimming or hammering.

If I ever want 37"s I will run a quality 3-4" lift, get better wheels, and give her the old power tools treatment. It may be illegal to drink and drive but I can still drink and use power tools 🤣 🤣
 
Playing in the big rocks on 39s :cool:
 
One of the many reasons I love my nitto trail grappler mt's. New and mounted on the truck they measured 34.5". That's a full 1.5" - 2" taller than any other 315/75-16 I have measured mounted on a vehicle.

Probably the reason they weigh 8lbs + more than any of their competitors.
My 37” nitto ridge grapplers were 36.5” off of the truck and are 35” on the truck at street pressure. Tires are dumb
 
For street driving you can fit 37's with a 3" lift and no cutting if you move the front axle forward and run taller bumpstops that stop compression travel before tires make contact.

Others have mentioned that different tires will fit differently. My Toyo MT's measured 36.8" but my current Kenda Klever MT2's measure just barely above 35", that's for a tire advertised as a 37. The Kenda's are noticeably smaller than what I was used to with the Toyos.

Wheel offset is a huge factor in getting 37's to fit without cutting. But it's a fine line. Bring the track width narrower to make them tuck into the wheel wells more and you run the risk of having the front tires rub the frame when turning and the rear tires rub the frame when the suspension is compressed. Removing the flares will help since most of the rubbing will be on the flares first. If you want to keep the flares you probably need to plan on trimming some off the inner edge of the flares.

I'm not sure longer rear arms help eliminate rubbing. When the truck is lifted the rear axle moves forward as the arc of the control arm effectively shortens. So at ride height your tires will be closer to the front edge of the rear wheel well. Longer control arms will center the axle at ride height but when the rear suspension is compressed the rear axle will be farther back in the wheel well than a stock length control arm at full compression. The rubbing I had at the rear (with longer control arms) was at the rear of the wheel well mostly. The stock length control arms might keep the larger tire centered in the wheel well more when compressed.

On my truck I rolled the fender lip on the rear fender in addition to some flare trimming. I still get a little rubbing at full stuff but not enough to cause any damage.

Here's the difference between my 37" Toyo and the 37" Kenda tire. Since I'm sure someone will comment that one of the tires has weight on it and one doesn't, I measured them both off of the truck and there is 1.5" difference in height.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 
I think it’s criminal when the tire is off it’s called out tire size by More than a half an inch.
2 1/2 inches smaller is Blatant false advertisement.
 
I think it’s criminal when the tire is off it’s called out tire size by More than a half an inch.
2 1/2 inches smaller is Blatant false advertisement.
Yet BFG remains one of the best selling tires on the market... :rolleyes:
 
I have the toyo 37 on -10mm offset and they tuck in the rear nice with no flare, I have the extended length land tank lowers and 2” bumpstop extensions and it rubs a little more on the rear portion of the fender then the front. For the front, the delta 3L arms push the axle forward and inch. I haven’t done anything to fix the front rubbing yet but it rubs on the everything minus the firewall. In the picture the rear still has 2” before the bumpstop. The front still had 3-4” before stock bumpstop.
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Yet BFG remains one of the best selling tires on the market... :rolleyes:
Not sure were you are getting this information I think they’re one of the worst tires out there. They’re very hard to balance, bad wet Performance and they dry rot faster than most tires.
 
But you see them everywhere... at least I see them everywhere. They are the most notorious for undersizing their tires, but people keep buying them!
 
IMO
Micky Thompson, Nitto - those are good options for Rock Crawling.
BFG - Ko2s, KM3s - best suit for Overland/ Mall Crawler
Stay away from Chicom tires....
 
But you see them everywhere... at least I see them everywhere. They are the most notorious for undersizing their tires, but people keep buying them!
They sell a lot of tires! I think they’re primarily made for California… because they suck everywhere else
 
They sell a lot of tires! I think they’re primarily made for California… because they suck everywhere else
I think not
But if that was the case they would be a very well rounded tire as California is one of the most diversified states.
you could be surfing in the morning rock crawling midday, and then snow wheeling in the evening.

Boy did this thread get derailed let’s try to get it back on track ladies
 

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