Source for legit Albright contactor in the US? (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

800 amps is probably correct for 24v. 500 amps for 12v.
 
Here’s some specs

EB387DB1-44AE-46B2-93E3-BD6428791569.jpeg
 
@PIP any update on when the mounting plates will become available? I'm in the process of rebuilding a M15000 and am looking to replace the original solenoids on this 20+ year old winch with the Albright contactor.
 
I truly apologize for the delays on these brackets. The explanation is my anodizer raised their minimum batch fees from $200 to $500 across the board, but said they might be able to sneak these through at regular pricing if somebody else has similar parts or I can just bring more parts in. Well, they haven't snuck anything in and I have been accumulating a pile of parts for ano, but not enough to justify the $500 minimum yet. In hindsight, I was a bit too optimistic they'd sneak them in or I'd be making parts on our docket in a different order than we are.

I know guys are chomping at the bit for these so what I'm going to do is pick up the lot from the anodizers unfinished and get them added to my website, Ebay and Amazon listings. I'll create a separate listing for just the brackets on the website so if you already have an Albright from me and want a bracket you can grab one by itself.
 
@PIP I got the contactor, but it looks like it won't quite fit in the control housing of a M15000.

I'm shy about 1/4" in being able to put the plastic cover back in. Some pics:

IMG_E4853.jpg


IMG_E4852.jpg


IMG_E4851.jpg


Anyone else with a M15000 (or presumably M12000) with this contactor figure out how to shoehorn it in?

I'm thinking the easiest would be to extent the vertical lips on the mounting plate up about 1" or so and then screw in the plastic cover to the extension.
 
@PIP I got the contactor, but it looks like it won't quite fit in the control housing of a M15000.

I'm shy about 1/4" in being able to put the plastic cover back in. Some pics:

Anyone else with a M15000 (or presumably M12000) with this contactor figure out how to shoehorn it in?

I'm thinking the easiest would be to extent the vertical lips on the mounting plate up about 1" or so and then screw in the plastic cover to the extension.

This is on a M12000. I added nutserts to the mounting plate and mounted the contactor far left. I had to notch the back of the cover for to be able to screw down the rear of the cover. Front of the cover remains unattached because I lost the screw. I think I can force it down and attach the front but it will be tight. My solution may be workable but there has to be a more elegant solution for fitting the top cover.

IMG_1191.jpg
IMG_1114.jpg
 
I don't think the Warn mount is going to fit winches with integral solenoids. But it will work nice for the solenoid pack with the plastic cover.


DSC_0022.JPG
DSC_0021.JPG
DSC_0020.JPG
 
Hi @PIP

I am rebuilding an older Warn M8000 winch and want to order the Albright. I had a few questions about the size and wiring requirements. It looks like the space under my plastic cover is 2 1/2" high. Will the Albright fit with the mounting bracket in this space? Also, I have the older 3 pin connector and your Ebay product description mentions that upgrading to the Albright would require the 5 pin connector, Warn part 39886. I also have an old Prestolite motor on the winch. Will this motor still work with the updated 5 pin wiring and Albright? Sorry for the basic questions but I don't know anything about motor control. I think you mentioned that you provide a wiring diagram with the order as well?

Here are some photos of my solenoid plate and 3 pin connector and wiring to help me with my explanation.

1711262212798.png


1711262268067.png



1711262351592.png


1711262495135.png
 
The 3 pin will work, you’ll have to cut off the ring terminals and put spade connectors on. There are wiring diagrams out there to explain how to wire the old 3 wire harnesses. You’ll need to look up the Albright information understand where to put what wire.

The contactor itself will fit under the old enclosure. You may want mock it up. Once you put those thick wires on, it becomes very difficult to move and adjust.

There is a chance your old wiring will work but the cables likely have corrosion and be very stiff due to age. I would replace them.
 
The 3 pin will work, you’ll have to cut off the ring terminals and put spade connectors on. There are wiring diagrams out there to explain how to wire the old 3 wire harnesses. You’ll need to look up the Albright information understand where to put what wire.

The contactor itself will fit under the old enclosure. You may want mock it up. Once you put those thick wires on, it becomes very difficult to move and adjust.

There is a chance your old wiring will work but the cables likely have corrosion and be very stiff due to age. I would replace them.
Excellent, thank you for the clarification @chbrow10 . I do plan on getting new wiring. I was thinking 2/0 or is it 2AWG? Again, not savvy with motor control.
 
Last edited:
Chbrow10 covered it well. The wiring diagram is in all my listings on Ebay, Amazon and on my website. Feel free to print it off.

The cables from Albright to motor are typically 4 to 2 awg. I like to use 1/0 or 2/0 from battery to winch as these cables are much longer.

Some companies sell copper bars to mount the Albright. Fine stranded wire carries significantly more current than solid copper bar does. I like to use quality welding cable with copper crimp ends and thick heat shrink tube with the glue inside. Ensures a long lasting, corrosion free connection.
 
Concur with PIP on cable sizing.
 
Some sad news today- I will not be able to bulk order anymore Albrights from this point forward. There are approximately 200 remaining in stock. When they're gone, they're gone. That's about a 2-3 month supply.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom