Locking Differential Just Blinking (1 Viewer)

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Jan 30, 2013
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Location
Winter Park, Florida
Fellas:

I would imagine that this has probably been covered numerous times, but when I searched for this, I mostly get folks selling "locked" cruisers or LX450. I have a 1997 LX450 and when I engage the factory lockers, front and/or rear the light blinks but does not engage. Anyone have a suggestions as to where on the forum I should look for answers or has this happened to anyone here? Thanks so much, I greatly appreciate the help.

Cheers,

ECBMCC
 
The best guess is that they are "trying" to lock. The locker's teeth have not meshed and therefore have not locked. While moving on gravel or a lose surface the front and then the back will lock. The lockers will not lock unless one tire is spinning faster than the other (like when you turn). As you turn the gears will mesh and then lock. They will remained locked until you tell them to unlock and have released pressure from the drive train.
 
Make sure the center diff is locked if you have the button, otherwise make sure it is in low range. Drive on gravel, turn the wheel back and forth until you hear and feel it lock up. My Apologies if you already knew this and you are looking for actuator troubleshooting
 
Blinking means not engaged. Make sure you have the tcase in "L" then drive around a bit and they will lock. Just be careful if on paved roads.
 
Worked on a rig this weekend, and was not able to trouble shoot it. lockers were fully engaging, but light kept blinking. Pulled out the diff lock sensor (basically a ball style plunger switch), replaced it first, no good..... jumpered it, and it still blinked. Assumed wiring issue, so jumped it right next to the control unit, and still blinked.

Anyone????
 
There are 2 switches under there (same "plunger" style), did you try both? WAG.
 
Thanks fellas, I will try this and report back. I had placed it in L, but had not moved the steering wheel back and forth, last time I tried this it was in several inches of snow. Thanks again fellas.

Cheers.
 
I had the same issue with the front axle. I traced the wiring from the axle and found a break in the wires. Patched that up and it took care of the blinking light. FWIW I knew for a fact that it was locking, just not signaling that it was locked.
 
So I have checked and replaced the actuator indicator switch. It works fine, but RR locker indicator just flashes. Jacks up the rear and checked to see if it was locked and it wasn't. Is there anyway to check the rear locker actuator function and get it to activate without pulling it off? Can an external power source or battery be used to get it to cycle? I have been searching threads but nothing yet.
 
Fellas, sorry it has taken so long to report back, but I wanted to wait until we had sufficient snow. Both locking differentials worked flawlessly, I suppose they just needed some slipping and they locked, did it twice on one day and they worked just as they were designed to do. Thanks again for your assistance in this matter. It saved me a trip to the mechanic. Cheers.
 
Thread back from the dead.... Out this weekend and tried cycling all 3 DiffLocks. Center and front good but rear just flashed. Got under there today to check things out...rear wheels off the ground I turn switch to first position RR, hear motor cycle and then when I turn a wheel by hand can hear the definite click of the mechanism locking and now can't turn either rear wheel (before they turn in opposite directions). Removed inspection/switch plate and can see the shaft move as expected. Tested switch and working as expected. Jumped connection to test but Dash light still flashing. So I now know all is good at rear diff.

What next?
 
Thread back from the dead.... Out this weekend and tried cycling all 3 DiffLocks. Center and front good but rear just flashed. Got under there today to check things out...rear wheels off the ground I turn switch to first position RR, hear motor cycle and then when I turn a wheel by hand can hear the definite click of the mechanism locking and now can't turn either rear wheel (before they turn in opposite directions). Removed inspection/switch plate and can see the shaft move as expected. Tested switch and working as expected. Jumped connection to test but Dash light still flashing. So I now know all is good at rear diff.

What next?

I'd check condition of terminals in the harness socket & on the indicator - you got it to show closed but if you have corrosion on the terminals, then clean & stuff the socket with grease to keep out crud/salt/water.

My 1st & easy guess anyhow.
 
At the rear diff? Very clean and no corrosion. Also I jumped the connector and still have flashing dash light. Issue has to be further in than at rear diff.
 
Always best to start a new thread. If your rear locks, but doesn't indicate it, then it is either a sensor problem or a wiring to the sensor problem. Try shining up the contacts first and then remove the position sensor and work it over and make sure it works.
 
I had the same blinking issue with the rear locker on our 95. I recently discovered that the rear actuator was full of corrosion and sand. The actuator housing had split itself with current and electrolysis. I've since removed the actuator and hope to install a different locker later that will hopefully work with the factory switch. The center and front lockers work well.
 
All works except the light. The lock engages but the dash light still flashes. Like I said I jumped the indicator switch wires but the dash light still flashes.
Is this done by a control unit? Is this what is ' wrong'?
 
Control unit is near passenger's feet bolted to the lower a-pillar.

Try jumping the wires at the ECU. If you get a good light then the problem is between the axle and the ECU. There are connectors in that circuit at the rear locker actuator (maybe) at the front end of the upper links on the rear axle, by where the rear lower body harness enters the chassis under the driver's side tail light, inside the rear quarter under the jack storage, and by the driver's footwell. Lots of places to open up and isolate the issue if it is in fact wiring.
 
Ok will look at those points. I should be able to do a basic continuity test...between rear diff switch and Control Unit right? Thanks
 
Do you have a EWD book / download?

I just have the LC one, not sure but seems floor harness has differences in a 450 (from memory of my old 450) - the next place I'd be looking is the rear axle subharness connector by the driver framerail, there's still a connector underside the body there before you transition into the rear sub-harness & then the floor harness.

Can you unscrew the indicator @ the housing & have a helper watch the cluster while you push the detent ball?

I'd be working from the diff back connector by connector - the relay box is just that, your issue is either mechanical with the actuator / indicator or electrical in the harnesses (rear, sub, floor).
 

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