Moroso makes an aluminum one that fits this bill. It has a petcock on he bottom for draining and a small air filter on the top.
Ran one in the past ....
Ran one in the past ....
Excessively underpowered 1HZ + poor fuel economy (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Leitrum3
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- Thread starter
- #282
Well, I'm thankful to know that the consensus is this is a normal amount of oil/blow-by. I just don't recall that mine ever had this much, even before the rebuild. Maybe that's just one of the differences in a non-turboed 1HZ and the 1HD-T.
Anyway, even though everyone says to just run it to atmo/ground, I have a problem dumping oil everywhere. I've started looking around for a way to filter and collect and a little research on this site at first pointed me towards Provent, but there was also a lot of negative results so I'm still looking. I think I found the one elkaholic mentions above or at least a similar one, the Moroso 85487. What I'd really love to do is instead of the manual petcock on the bottom, is to replace it with a solenoid valve that is shut with elec. current and opens when the truck shuts off so there isn't any chance of pressurizing the drain line and making a real mess of things. Shipping my Gturbo back on Friday so I have a little time to kill and not really into hurrying. Besides, I still can't get the #1 crankshaft pulley bolt off so I can replace the seals...
Anyway, even though everyone says to just run it to atmo/ground, I have a problem dumping oil everywhere. I've started looking around for a way to filter and collect and a little research on this site at first pointed me towards Provent, but there was also a lot of negative results so I'm still looking. I think I found the one elkaholic mentions above or at least a similar one, the Moroso 85487. What I'd really love to do is instead of the manual petcock on the bottom, is to replace it with a solenoid valve that is shut with elec. current and opens when the truck shuts off so there isn't any chance of pressurizing the drain line and making a real mess of things. Shipping my Gturbo back on Friday so I have a little time to kill and not really into hurrying. Besides, I still can't get the #1 crankshaft pulley bolt off so I can replace the seals...
I believe this is actually the one I used ... Moroso 85473 but I do not remember it having two ports. The one I had only had one port, so it was truly vented to the atmosphere via the filter on top.
I am running this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/On-3-Perfor...732257e&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=2&sd=141734826518
I put a stainless pot scrubber inside to try condensate better. Seems to work well so far.....
Found some 5/8 barb fittings for it to fit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/On-3-Perfor...732257e&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=2&sd=141734826518
I put a stainless pot scrubber inside to try condensate better. Seems to work well so far.....
Found some 5/8 barb fittings for it to fit
I like that. Nice big ports, which is the problem with finding a catch can for our trucks.
The thing in all reality is smaller than a pop can
Make one, with a few hours you can make a very effective cyclonic one that seems to remove almost all of the oil suspended in the air from the PCV.
How/where did you mount it in your engine bay? This one is looking pretty good, I've not had much luck finding other options with large inlet/outlets. Are you recirculating or venting to atmosphere post catch can?
- Thread starter
- #289
And now back to our regularly scheduled programming. Just a minor update, but good progress this weekend finally. Had a slight delay with a wedding in town and a whole lot of family here - plus that damn crank pulley bolt still wouldn't budge. Started with the image below on saturday morning.
After flailing about with a 6 foot breaker bar, I spent all of my saturday with this beast I rented from a nearby tool place. 900 ft/lbs of reverse torque still wouldn't get the damn bolt free. Ended up having to cut the flanges off the bolt, ruining the bolt, washer and pulley in the process. Would've really liked to have saved the pulley but fortunately I had a spare.
I had some more provocative photos, but this one seemed more appropriate...
With the crank pulley finally off, time to get to work. All of this just to replace a couple of seals. I did notice some dirty oil residue behind the pulley so I'm sure it was needed anyway.
At the end of the day, I was able to replace all the front oil seals with the new ones I had (just swapped the actual case pieces), timing belt, timing tensioner and spring, water pump, all turbo plumbing lines, steering pump seal, alternator bracket (just because mine is clean and pretty) vacuum pump seal and union fitting. That last one confused me a little but I figured out that there were a bunch of seemingly unnecessary vacuum lines and sensors on the 1HD-T that my turboed 1HZ didn't have so I just swapped them out. And for my own reassurance, I meticulously cleaned and blasted air through anything that I reused to know for sure that there wouldn't be any metal remnants from the previous disaster.
End of the weekend, feeling pretty good about where this is at. Cleaner and ready for a long life. Just need to bolt on the turbo and we're nearly set to go. Decided I will go ahead and use the CT26 it came with for now rather than wait for the Gturbo to get back (mostly because I haven't gotten around to sending it yet!).
And now for the really serious question. Which of these do I use and/or what paint should I use for the red letters?!
After flailing about with a 6 foot breaker bar, I spent all of my saturday with this beast I rented from a nearby tool place. 900 ft/lbs of reverse torque still wouldn't get the damn bolt free. Ended up having to cut the flanges off the bolt, ruining the bolt, washer and pulley in the process. Would've really liked to have saved the pulley but fortunately I had a spare.
I had some more provocative photos, but this one seemed more appropriate...
With the crank pulley finally off, time to get to work. All of this just to replace a couple of seals. I did notice some dirty oil residue behind the pulley so I'm sure it was needed anyway.
At the end of the day, I was able to replace all the front oil seals with the new ones I had (just swapped the actual case pieces), timing belt, timing tensioner and spring, water pump, all turbo plumbing lines, steering pump seal, alternator bracket (just because mine is clean and pretty) vacuum pump seal and union fitting. That last one confused me a little but I figured out that there were a bunch of seemingly unnecessary vacuum lines and sensors on the 1HD-T that my turboed 1HZ didn't have so I just swapped them out. And for my own reassurance, I meticulously cleaned and blasted air through anything that I reused to know for sure that there wouldn't be any metal remnants from the previous disaster.
End of the weekend, feeling pretty good about where this is at. Cleaner and ready for a long life. Just need to bolt on the turbo and we're nearly set to go. Decided I will go ahead and use the CT26 it came with for now rather than wait for the Gturbo to get back (mostly because I haven't gotten around to sending it yet!).
And now for the really serious question. Which of these do I use and/or what paint should I use for the red letters?!
- Thread starter
- #290
Despite my apparent negligence of this thread, things really have progressed. At the end of August, install finally happened--and then I left the country for a few weeks so I haven't done a thing for a while! Back in the saddle now and ready to get some gremlins sorted.
I have since buttoned it up and got it to a point where I could drive it well enough to get re-registered (that was a hairy, sketchy deal all-in-all and I barely got it through due to being a 96... but that's a story for another time) so as not to sit any longer without registration on the street. I'm not quite out of the woods yet however.
As I'm prone to do, I wanted to make the best of having the engine out so I pulled off the ACSD and blanked it. However, what I failed to do is re-time it, which is what I'm hoping has a lot to do with the various issues I'm having. I should back up and say, this thing starts up like a champ! But as soon as it starts, the rpm bounces all around, per the video below. From the research I've done it sounds like a dashpot issue, but I'm not really clear on how this is adjusted, if it can be adjusted, or if they just go bad?
Let me first start out by saying the oil pressure is great, never drops below 18 when hot and gets up to 45+ with rpms. 145k km's on the clock and the BEB's have been done by the PO. The compression as tested by the shop I picked this up from stated it as 475 across all cylinders and I can't feel any blowby at idle, for what that's worth. All of that said, the second thing, and the much larger thing to be sorted out is a nasty knock that appears with rpm. So, as I mentioned above, hoping this is fuel pump or injector related (not sure what nailing sounds like?), I can't imagine it being something as simple as trapped air in the injector lines so what else to check? To be on the safe side, I'm not driving it til I have it sorted. Any ideas here?
I have since buttoned it up and got it to a point where I could drive it well enough to get re-registered (that was a hairy, sketchy deal all-in-all and I barely got it through due to being a 96... but that's a story for another time) so as not to sit any longer without registration on the street. I'm not quite out of the woods yet however.
As I'm prone to do, I wanted to make the best of having the engine out so I pulled off the ACSD and blanked it. However, what I failed to do is re-time it, which is what I'm hoping has a lot to do with the various issues I'm having. I should back up and say, this thing starts up like a champ! But as soon as it starts, the rpm bounces all around, per the video below. From the research I've done it sounds like a dashpot issue, but I'm not really clear on how this is adjusted, if it can be adjusted, or if they just go bad?
Let me first start out by saying the oil pressure is great, never drops below 18 when hot and gets up to 45+ with rpms. 145k km's on the clock and the BEB's have been done by the PO. The compression as tested by the shop I picked this up from stated it as 475 across all cylinders and I can't feel any blowby at idle, for what that's worth. All of that said, the second thing, and the much larger thing to be sorted out is a nasty knock that appears with rpm. So, as I mentioned above, hoping this is fuel pump or injector related (not sure what nailing sounds like?), I can't imagine it being something as simple as trapped air in the injector lines so what else to check? To be on the safe side, I'm not driving it til I have it sorted. Any ideas here?
I don't hear a knock. Well, I hear something in the beginning but I'm assuming it's wind or your hand hitting the microphone.
Regarding the blowby... if you can not find a catch-can with at least 5/8" or biger ports, don't use a catch can. Just run the valve cover breather to a 4' hose and let the hose dangle (a la Cummins engines in the early 1990s). A small catch can will cause pressure issues and possibly blow out oil seals.
RPM issue... you revved the engine, then the RPM dips low and comes back up? That seems sorta normal. Especially if cold.
When I removed my ACSD I did not re-time my engine. However, I also run about 1mm advanced (pump is tilted 1mm past the hash mark on the timing case). Advancing the timing will reduce your EGT by about 150-200f (measured pre-turbo).
Main pulley: Is the replacement one you just installed... new? I ask because (and consider this a public service message): anyone buying a used 1H(x) motor... you should nstall a new main pulley. These are known to crack, slip, come out of balance, and eventually eat the crank nose (ask me how I know). It's a common problem on these motors that most of us North America peeps (ie: US and Canada, eh) are not aware of because we just don't know these motors very well; any many of them are low mileage JDM motors. A new balancer is a couple hundred bucks. You have to tighten the piss out of the main bolt (I red-lock-tighted mine also, and torqued with a 500lb impact).
Regarding the blowby... if you can not find a catch-can with at least 5/8" or biger ports, don't use a catch can. Just run the valve cover breather to a 4' hose and let the hose dangle (a la Cummins engines in the early 1990s). A small catch can will cause pressure issues and possibly blow out oil seals.
RPM issue... you revved the engine, then the RPM dips low and comes back up? That seems sorta normal. Especially if cold.
When I removed my ACSD I did not re-time my engine. However, I also run about 1mm advanced (pump is tilted 1mm past the hash mark on the timing case). Advancing the timing will reduce your EGT by about 150-200f (measured pre-turbo).
Main pulley: Is the replacement one you just installed... new? I ask because (and consider this a public service message): anyone buying a used 1H(x) motor... you should nstall a new main pulley. These are known to crack, slip, come out of balance, and eventually eat the crank nose (ask me how I know). It's a common problem on these motors that most of us North America peeps (ie: US and Canada, eh) are not aware of because we just don't know these motors very well; any many of them are low mileage JDM motors. A new balancer is a couple hundred bucks. You have to tighten the piss out of the main bolt (I red-lock-tighted mine also, and torqued with a 500lb impact).
- Thread starter
- #292
Hmm, funny you don't hear anything. I guess it's not really a "knock", but it is rhythmic and metallic, sounds quite a bit different at idle than at rpm. Seems to kick on around 1700 and up. It's not sharp or loud like this video though, so that's good.
I hear it very clearly in my video starting at 00:09, fades out as it drops in rpm at 00:19. Maybe I'll try to shoot it again without the fan blowing air into the mic at the beginning...
For the blowby, I will probably leave it as-is for now and let it burn it off til I've had this thing for a bit and know that everything is in good order. Besides, I'll be swapping turbo's soon back to my Grunter so in case it's not oil flowing from the crankcase but actually within the turbo I won't have to modify anything anyway.
RPM issue. I don't recall rpms dipping this badly on my previous 1HZ. It actually dips enough to kill the engine. I thought that was what the dashpot was supposed to prevent. Stole this from another thread:
And last, main pulley. I didn't use the original that was on there, I used the pulley that was off of my 1HZ which was checked out and balanced by my machinist. It seems to be in great shape, but I will definitely keep what you said in mind. Thanks for the input!
Did the BEB actually need doing? I have inspected BEB on 2 1HZ with 220000klms and the BEB were perfect. Engine rebuilders here have told me they typically will last double that.
I would be checking the POs handiwork before I went any further.
The dropping idle issue isn't what I see on either of my 1HD-T's, I'd agree something is amiss there.
I wasn't able to hear the knock in your 2nd video either.
Glad to see you're back at this!
I wasn't able to hear the knock in your 2nd video either.
Glad to see you're back at this!
I do hear a distinct "tick" in the second video... but sounds more like a standard diesel tick than a knock. Could be just that one injector is injecting a little late and the noise is sticking out more than the other 5. Here's the thing, that 6th cylinder is just looking for attention. Don't favor it more than the others or they will always resent it and never get along.
- Thread starter
- #296
Okay, so radio silence these days is starting to mean I'm just too damned busy to do anything and have hardly had any time in the garage. I haven't driven more than 100 miles on the new engine as I don't like how it sounds and want to check things out before driving much. To me, it sounds out of balance above idle, especially when I listen to the videos I posted. I'm hoping/thinking it's actually just timing and injectors since I pulled off the ACSD and didn't re-time (I hear mixed opinions on this, however). Getting ready and looking forward to a holiday weekend at home though, of which I will get at least one entire day in the shop! It's great because I just got my Grunter back last week from Graeme after getting rebuilt, have an IP timing tool on the way, received my valve adjustment tool in the mail finally, and will be taking the injectors up to DFIS next week to get tested (and hopefully not need to get rebuilt!). So, things will start happening again, and then maybe I'll get this thing completed and this thread can finally die!
Also, not sure if this is kosher, but I figure its directly related to this thread-- I posted this today in the classifieds: For Sale: - 1HZ Engine Part-out (w/ turbo)
That's all for now!
Also, not sure if this is kosher, but I figure its directly related to this thread-- I posted this today in the classifieds: For Sale: - 1HZ Engine Part-out (w/ turbo)
That's all for now!
- Thread starter
- #297
Clearing some space in the garage, I finally finished tearing apart the block and made an interesting discovery. It appears that the #7 crank bearing had spun as far as it could and several others had spun at least a few mm. Can someone explain why the grooves for the bearings wouldn't absolutely hold the bearings in position so this could not happen? Seeing this, I'm certain this is what happened, but I'm confused about what I would do to stop it from happening?
Did some checking on the crank and the number 6 rod journal is about .5mm wider than the rest, but fine other than that. Still probably not salvageable but it makes me wonder if it could be and most of the damage is actually in the rod end. Anyway, food for thought.
Did some checking on the crank and the number 6 rod journal is about .5mm wider than the rest, but fine other than that. Still probably not salvageable but it makes me wonder if it could be and most of the damage is actually in the rod end. Anyway, food for thought.
I would be checking the numbers on the back of the bearings... make sure they are the correct ones and also plastigauge the crank to see what if anything is amiss there.... measure the crank as well (mains and bigends) maybe....... essentially measure everything and see it its all good..... partially spinning a bearing like that with no other signs of anything seems very odd....
crushers
post ho
considering the bearing halfs touch each other, i find it strange that the bottom "turned" ...
what about the other half, what is the back of it looking like.
also, considering the oil feed hole isn't lined up i find it interesting there is no oil stain on the casting.
you sure this rotation didn't happen when pulling the crank out? sometimes there is a bit of suction and the bearing can move upon removal.
what about the other half, what is the back of it looking like.
also, considering the oil feed hole isn't lined up i find it interesting there is no oil stain on the casting.
you sure this rotation didn't happen when pulling the crank out? sometimes there is a bit of suction and the bearing can move upon removal.
- Thread starter
- #300
You were correct, I jumped to a conclusion without enough inspection. After double checking-- even with the minimal miles on the engine-- I could actually still see some staining where the hole aligned on the back side of the bearing. So it must've been the suction on removal.
On a related note, I finally decided to bring the block, pistons, old crank, head and cam to my machine shop to have him look things over. The preliminary conclusion isn't all bad news! After hearing what I know of what happened with the initial start up and all details I could remember, the first conclusion he came to after looking over all the parts was that it really looks like oil starvation in the number 6 rod bearing on start up was enough to start the snowball rolling. Prime your oil system people! In the future, I wouldn't start up a rebuild without using a pressurized oiling system like he loans out on builds he does.
He also feels like the block is salvageable, but that is still being determined. The latest news I got was that the re-hone he performed wasn't quite enough but it could be okay after a really light re-bore. We'll have to check clearances against the pistons I have to see if it's viable. Should know more on Monday once he's back from vacation. If it's okay, I kind of wonder if I should have him put the short block together since I have all the parts minus the bearings...Then it's warrantied. Anyway, it's food for thought at least. We'll see what Monday brings, maybe it'll be a late christmas present!
