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Old 05-29-09, 08:12 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1 (permalink)
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1983 BJ42 buildup/ resto

here they go, is the drain ok at this degree or do I need more? I cant really go more down, and if I rotate turbo to face other side more horizontal then my drain will be directly horizontal as well, would that be ok to hav eit horizontal and then radius it downwards into oil pan? We are drilling hole tomorrow in pan and then have welded.
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Old 05-29-09, 08:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 05-29-09, 08:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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So that's what a clean 3B looks like

Nice job so far. I don't think you'll have an issue with the oil drain line at that angle. You sound be able to rotate the inlet side more all on its own though and the oil gallery should be able to rotate down more too. I don't know the garrett turbos at all so I'm just speculating.

Hopefully someone with garrett experience can help you out.

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Old 05-29-09, 08:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Old 05-29-09, 08:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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1 last one tonight
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Old 05-29-09, 08:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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you should be able to clock both the exhaust and compressor. I can't really see how much it's it's not vertical. It would probably be ok but you could have some oil pool in the housing since it's not vertical.

clean motor except for the rusty exhaust manifold

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Old 05-29-09, 11:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Is this one of the Diesel42 kits?
Very nice looking, I think I've eaten off plates dirtier than that engine.

Your drain will probably be okay on that angle, but I would rotate it down to vertical if you can. The compressor housing will then loosen and rotate to the angle needed. You can shift the wastegate actuator bracket to another position and it's got an adjustable rod so you can just put it where it works and adjust later.

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Old 05-30-09, 06:04 AM   #8 (permalink)
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thanks fellas, I was awaiting everyones input since I am not sure what im doing. I have rotated that turbo 4 times and moved the wastegate thing as well? the part bewtween the turbo and wastegate rotates with the turbo when I loosen it from the wastegate but i see no way of rotating just that middle section which od course is where the drain and inlet is and thats what I really need to adjust? I will keep fooling with it for I would like the drain of course to be more downward. Dougal, yes this is the Diesel42 setup, he did an excellent job on this adapter plate, and the numbers of course are form your research. I will be touching up all the bolts on the engine that I cleaned really good prior to rebuild since they are starting to surface rust now? The exhaust manifold I am almost tempted to send out to get cermaic coated since it looks like cr** compared to rest of engine, I know it wont hold any paint I will find around here. Thanks for the input, I will adjust fire.

Thanks
R

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Old 05-30-09, 08:11 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Very nice. Is that "turbo" pipe from a 2LII-T?

Dan

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Old 05-30-09, 09:57 AM   #10 (permalink)
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no its from a 13BT. and hopefully I can make work

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Old 05-30-09, 12:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Wow, it is really looking good Rob ! Keep up the good work

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Old 05-30-09, 04:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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thanks fellas, I was awaiting everyones input since I am not sure what im doing. I have rotated that turbo 4 times and moved the wastegate thing as well? the part bewtween the turbo and wastegate rotates with the turbo when I loosen it from the wastegate but i see no way of rotating just that middle section which od course is where the drain and inlet is and thats what I really need to adjust? I will keep fooling with it for I would like the drain of course to be more downward. Dougal, yes this is the Diesel42 setup, he did an excellent job on this adapter plate, and the numbers of course are form your research. I will be touching up all the bolts on the engine that I cleaned really good prior to rebuild since they are starting to surface rust now? The exhaust manifold I am almost tempted to send out to get cermaic coated since it looks like cr** compared to rest of engine, I know it wont hold any paint I will find around here. Thanks for the input, I will adjust fire.

Thanks
R
Nice.

You should loosen the bolts on the exhaust housing to centre section and rotate so the drain is as close to the bottom as practical. Then do those ones back up and loosen the clamp bolts holding the compressor housing on.
It should rotate, but not freely. If it won't turn with hand pressure then try to take the housing off to see if it's pinned (they usually aren't, just in case).
Once it's off, just reinstall at the angle you want.

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Old 05-30-09, 04:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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thanks fellas, I rotated housing just as u said and worked great, I have as far as I can go before it bumps against mount, I had turbo drain brazed on to oil pan today after my father and I tried with no luck, the guy did a great job for $5 and then prepped and cleaned and painted pan and mounted, then put on drain tube, and then filled engine with oil. got all the new oil lines installed, prepping and painting the radiator bracket tomorrow, touching up the engine and bolts with paint since my machine shop who rebuilt waited until after he put everything back on to paint? who does that? so he did he best he could? the exhaust manifold looks like cr** but I am just going to say whatever? so is this turbo going to get hurt when I go to crank 1st time since going to take a few to get oil going???? how do you do this? also water in block? do I need to fill block up first or just fill radiator until cycles and then fill up again? oh, also, i cant find my 2 small hoses that go from the venturi to the injector pump so can I just use heater hose or is there a reason it is clear hose?

R
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Old 05-30-09, 04:47 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Old 05-30-09, 04:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Take the turbo oil feed line off and slowly pour oil in before the first start.
This stops it from starting up dry.

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Old 05-30-09, 05:24 PM   #16 (permalink)
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thanks Dougal, and looking at my pics where do I tap into for oil feed, these are the only parts I have left from my turbo oil feed and drain kit? and how much oil should I pour into it? how long does it take before oil pump starts feeding ol to all?

Thanks mucho
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Old 05-30-09, 08:19 PM   #17 (permalink)
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for the oil feed. just use the #1 port on the block in front of the oil sensors. No need to T off anything. Plus you'll get oil first, not that it really matters. pull the oil feed line at the turbo and put in a little rotate the wheel a bit so it's primed.

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Old 05-30-09, 08:28 PM   #18 (permalink)
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how do I know which one is number 1? will my manual tell me?

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Old 05-30-09, 08:30 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Old 05-30-09, 08:38 PM   #20 (permalink)
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thank u, I will try it manana

appreciate it
Rob

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Old 05-30-09, 09:53 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Wow... at the risk of sounding somewhat like a Nancy... that is pretty.... . Ha ha, seriously though, that is awesome.

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Old 05-31-09, 01:55 PM   #22 (permalink)
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That is a first class job Rob for sure. You certainly leave no details to spare. Go with Wesintl on the oil port location. Also, i believe the engineer at Garrett said the center section of that turbo should be with 15 degrees of vertical(which is pretty close to straight up and down). This was reiterated to me by them. The new complete kit that Breckenridgecruiser and i are offering has a drain flange with elbow that allows for this vertical clocking. Let me know if you need help. And i must repeat, gorgeous job.

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Old 05-31-09, 06:00 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Thanks Diesel42, your adapter plate is top notch, and I recieved my beautiful Diesel Grille badge as well, well done. Can you please send me a pic of this elbow for I would really be interested in purchasing? Because I am as far as I can go, for my drain tube is now against the adapter plate/ manifold as far as it can go?

Thanks
R
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Old 06-01-09, 12:01 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
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here they go, is the drain ok at this degree or do I need more? I cant really go more down, and if I rotate turbo to face other side more horizontal then my drain will be directly horizontal as well, would that be ok to hav eit horizontal and then radius it downwards into oil pan? We are drilling hole tomorrow in pan and then have welded.
This is one I hate about Toyota manifold is that turbo will stay too close to hood.

Also, running a long plastic tube for hot oil out of turbo is a bad idea.

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Old 06-01-09, 07:20 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Also, running a long plastic tube for hot oil out of turbo is a bad idea.[/QUOTE]

That's a silicone hose. I used them when I worked on gas compressors and they lasted over 10,000 hrs in extreme conditions. I have one for my drain. I hope your bung in your pan doesn't seem like mine did.

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Old 06-01-09, 10:52 AM   #26 (permalink)
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This guy did a great job brazing it, and I beleive the drain tube is designed for turbo? It came with my turbo oil line kit so it should be fine and handle the temps? we will see.

R

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Old 06-01-09, 02:12 PM   #27 (permalink)
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This guy did a great job brazing it, and I beleive the drain tube is designed for turbo? It came with my turbo oil line kit so it should be fine and handle the temps? we will see.

R
The drain pipe will be fine, any type of oil resistant hose will work, the heat is not a problem.

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Old 06-02-09, 11:45 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Nice Work- I think I will save your pics and post them where my 3B can't see 'em.

Where did you find the A/C components? I am shopping

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Old 06-02-09, 12:59 PM   #29 (permalink)
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mine came installed from factory or dealership I guess from when purchased in AUS? thanks, a year ago my engine was a diaster looking piece that someone painted with silver spray paint to hide where the top radiator hose was sprating a leak and coolant was a bit rusty so they painted over the spray?

R

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Old 06-02-09, 05:22 PM   #30 (permalink)
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looks good, but you need to splash some oil, grease, and grime on the engine. it way clean for a 3b-T although i did see some block rust on one of your oil pan drain pics. i think the drain angle will be just fine.

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