WWIHM do? A 1990 22r reported low mpg (1 Viewer)

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dohcdelsol93

snoogans
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Sep 1, 2009
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Location
Greenville, SC
Personally, I know what I'd do. I'd toss the 22r and put in a VW TDI motor... but this rig isn't mine.

Dropped off for a few running issues. First was a very loose free spinning shifter. Got that repaired with a good used shifter tower and new bushings.


Next up is the mpg issue. First examination shows cheap AutoZone type plug wires. The coil wire was held onto the distributor by a prayer. Pull it off, pulled the cable end out of the boot a bit, got a better bite and she's now in there good. The hard start/rough idle symptom is gone.


If it were mine at this point I'd run it for a tank of fuel and see if the miss was killing my mpg but for the sake of being through I figured I'd make some recommendations but wanted to run it by the Yota guru's first.

New proper plugs and ditch the cheap wires for OEM. While plugs are out adjust the valves since they have not been touched since God knows w
hen. While air filter cover is off verify choke is working properly. New air filter

Once done with tune up check timing, verify it's 5 degrees with vacuum port disconnected and blocked off.

No signs of any air leaks, I don't hear any snakes under the hood. Thanks ahead of time guys.
 
You are on the right track. Start simple. Start with the basics. Don't assume the problem is something sinister.
 
Under hood says timing with advance hoses plugged says 0.

It was retarded way before zero. Got it to zero but dizzy is maxed out on adjustment ccw to get it there.

When it's cold she has zero power. Needs a good pedal tap to start.


Was told the PO did a new timing chain so the dizzy and or the timing chain could be a tooth off causing my lack of adjustment. For power sake I was wanting to advance it to 5 degrees to try to achieve more power.

With hoses attached she's 12 degrees.

Fingers crossed I don't have to dig into the motor reset timing.
 
Not what I wanted to hear but thanks for the info. I realize this rig only has maybe 100 hp but when less than 45 degrees she isn't happy on start up and you have to rev the crap out of it to get up my drive way.
 
Don't forget to check the CDI box or whatever the emissions control box is in the driver kick panel. Mine had broken solder joints and my truck ran like crap. I could wiggle the connector and it would clean up. I reflowed those solder joints and all my rough running issues went away.
 
Does the 1990 22r (carburetor) non EFI have a cdi box? It looks like a simple dizzy/pickup/ignition coil set up for the ignition system.


Note:I'm on the wrong coast for Cali equipped vehicles.
 
Last edited:
Does the 1990 22r (carburetor) non EFI have a cdi box? It looks like a simple dizzy/pickup/ignition coil set up for the ignition system.


Note:I'm on the wrong coast for Cali equipped vehicles.
The box I'm referring to is called the emissions control relay, should be driver left kick panel. Should look like this. Wiggle the connector while running and see if there's any change in your condition.

 
Update. Guy picked it up and was happy with the current power output with just the set timing to 0. He wanted to drive it around and see how he likes it. So far no complaints.
 

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