I think the big toothed gear has to be in a specific spot when you assemble power windows. Also check that the outrigger, toward the door handle, is loose as you are fitting it together. Can be bolted, just leave that adjustable one loose.
Window Runners; What’s the trick?
- Thread starter NeverGiveUpYota
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- window regulator
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- Thread starter
- #42
Theres nothing to hit or realign that I can see!!!!!
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- #44
I’ll give that a shot @pistonpete.
Do you have that 19.5 mm measurement?
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- #46
I’m at work. I’ll try to check it out tmrw when kiddo is napping.
Oh, please tell me that hitting it with a hammer is ACTUALLY and LITERALLY what you had to do to fix this!
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- #48
Truck is at home. Luckily I do have a plastic and rubber mallet so I’ll be sure to get you a photo if and when it happens @cps432.
While I’m no expert on this issue at all and my thoughts might be totally off base but it looks like you need to pop the channel off the bottom of the door and reverse it. I’ve made a few marks on your pictures that look different than the OP’s
Not sure if you haven’t already tried this.
In this picture the threaded hole appears to point towards the bolt instead of away
Notice here how the channel that has the rubber is supported by the flat channel of the lift
Installed correctly the two brackets form a U shape seen below
Yours below does not creat the U shape.
Not sure if you haven’t already tried this.
In this picture the threaded hole appears to point towards the bolt instead of away
Notice here how the channel that has the rubber is supported by the flat channel of the lift
Installed correctly the two brackets form a U shape seen below
Yours below does not creat the U shape.
I think he might have found something here! That’s some good detailed looking @Saddletramp WOW
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- #51
Holy s*** Batman. This photo is of me holding it the channel backward to show it CANT go this way. The other that you pointed out w/ the threads backward is the same.
Thanks “sweet person attempting to jump in too late in the thread w/o reading further back first” but yeah your right as was I when I was trying to prove that MY channel be lined up because of those two facts.
Thanks “sweet person attempting to jump in too late in the thread w/o reading further back first” but yeah your right as was I when I was trying to prove that MY channel be lined up because of those two facts.
Any News ??
- Thread starter
- #53
Jeez well....
- Thread starter
- #54
So I get the channel and rubber up on glass high up in frame about at that 19.5mm measurement, hook up regulator 3 bolts close to handle push up the riser and blindly attach to the channel, then hook up two bolts at the farthest out side. Untape glass and try it out w/ handle. Glass begins to creep down and then start s to tip toward the inner hinge.
Would it seem that the metal channel and rubber need to have smooth surfaces so they can glide together? That’s where I’m at now... guessing because my inner channel is rusty and rough the rubber won’t glide w/ it.
I did find a photo of one on eBay and the channel is the same as mine is w/ one end (closest to outer door opening) longer after the screw hole.
If I’m reading it right I can buy new rubber on TPD but that channel is d/c’d. I could wire wheel the s*** out of it and add a thin glaze of jb weld... but what’s left of the metal is swiss cheese like on the inner most side of it so wire wheeling it will be risky. I’ve pondered rebuilding it. Cutting it, bending a new section of metal and attempting to add it. Idk... fabricating it isn’t the most far fetched option yet.
Photos below are of it all lined up prior to cranking the handle down.
Would it seem that the metal channel and rubber need to have smooth surfaces so they can glide together? That’s where I’m at now... guessing because my inner channel is rusty and rough the rubber won’t glide w/ it.
I did find a photo of one on eBay and the channel is the same as mine is w/ one end (closest to outer door opening) longer after the screw hole.
If I’m reading it right I can buy new rubber on TPD but that channel is d/c’d. I could wire wheel the s*** out of it and add a thin glaze of jb weld... but what’s left of the metal is swiss cheese like on the inner most side of it so wire wheeling it will be risky. I’ve pondered rebuilding it. Cutting it, bending a new section of metal and attempting to add it. Idk... fabricating it isn’t the most far fetched option yet.
Photos below are of it all lined up prior to cranking the handle down.
- Thread starter
- #56
As I crank the handle down this is what begins to happen...
Is that the rubber you put silicone on ?? If so, you should not. That is meant to bite to the glass. ( and Runner )
I would not attempt to fab that part, too flimsy, and I believe they are still available OEM ?
I would not JB weld it either, I would windshield urethane it, but prolly won't hold with the silicone lube...
I would not attempt to fab that part, too flimsy, and I believe they are still available OEM ?
I would not JB weld it either, I would windshield urethane it, but prolly won't hold with the silicone lube...
For simplicity sake the rubber in the door channels that goes up and around the door frame is the "run". The metal channel that bolts to the regulator that the window sits in is the "glass channel"
Ok as I understand it the glass is tilting as you roll down and is coming out of the glass channel. Is the glass grabbing in the run? Make sure you do this: raise the window about one inch from hitting the top position. get measurements A and B even at the top of the window using the adjustable screw/slot in the regulator. If it's off just a little at the top it will get worse as it rolls down causing sticking and tilting. Also I believe your glass is not seating in the rubber/metal channel compounding the problem. Hope this helps.
Ok as I understand it the glass is tilting as you roll down and is coming out of the glass channel. Is the glass grabbing in the run? Make sure you do this: raise the window about one inch from hitting the top position. get measurements A and B even at the top of the window using the adjustable screw/slot in the regulator. If it's off just a little at the top it will get worse as it rolls down causing sticking and tilting. Also I believe your glass is not seating in the rubber/metal channel compounding the problem. Hope this helps.
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- #59
The silicone was simply to try to make the rubber less stiff and dry, it did make it more pliable. It’s not lubed now while I’m doing all this.
I’ll check those measurements out @g-man. Thanks.
I find so much of this infuriating as the driver side was no sweat when I needed to swap the regulator. I DID note from the ebay photo that my spring which had come loose a few days back fussing I’d placed back on the wrong way. I’ve removed it and added it the correct orientation but can’t steal time now since it’s dinner and kid is already annoyed at my lack of attention to him. Darn singleton kids.
I’ll check those measurements out @g-man. Thanks.
I find so much of this infuriating as the driver side was no sweat when I needed to swap the regulator. I DID note from the ebay photo that my spring which had come loose a few days back fussing I’d placed back on the wrong way. I’ve removed it and added it the correct orientation but can’t steal time now since it’s dinner and kid is already annoyed at my lack of attention to him. Darn singleton kids.
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- #60
They are not on Toyota parts deal (TPD) which I already stated.