Window power without key on made EZ (1 Viewer)

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I believe f all is a saying used in the UK and apparently Canada. We use it in the US but it's spelled differently...LOL It means not much at all or hardly noticeable or very little.......f all. (<:
Lol. Ahhh. Gotcha.
 
Yes, this can work on a 91. The relay is the "power main relay". By jumping pins 2-4 the windows and sunroof will work with the key off. I changed mine to work with the key in the ACC position by changing the logic to the relay. Did this several months ago and it is a great mod.

I attached a picture of the relays in the driver's kick panel for you.
View attachment 672513

So do you pull the relay that's in that spot and LEAVE out? Or do you have to put the "main power relay" back in. It sounds KINDA important??

For those reading, this question is specific to 91-92.
 
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F All is used in different ways. Like I can't see f all. Or, that whole thing is f all. Or, I wouldn't tell them f all. So on...
 
Still not clear how to approach this on a 91. Re-read the whole thread. Does the relay in that spot come out and get stored under the hood? Thanks.
 
I did this mod and now I have more parasitic drain. With the jumper in place, the drain is 110mA. With the jumper removed, my parasitic drain is 30mA. Any suggestions where the extra 80mA is going?

Yes, I did remove the two tiny springs that connect to the AUTO backlight on the window switch, and it no longer lights up. In fact, when I unplug the window switch / window lock / power door lock cluster in the driver door armrest, it makes no difference: I still get the additional 80mA drain.

Any guidance or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
I found the parasitic drain. I unplugged the sunroof motor and the drain is now back to 30mA, same as it was with the original window relay in place, and back within Toyota spec. Unplugging just the sunroof switches made no difference. I had to unplug this connector:
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You might say that 80mA is insignificant, but I know it would bother me, especially when camped in a remote area for several days. I never use the sunroof anyway; in fact, I hope to delete it someday. It was more important for me to eliminate the parasitic drain and get back within spec. The dome light next to the sunroof controls still works as normal after unplugging the sunroof.

Hopefully someone smarter than I am will chime in and explain why the sunroof motor was drawing power when it wasn’t operating.

Out of curiosity, I reconnected the AUTO backlight in the window switch and tested again. That tiny light was drawing only 20mA, not the 80mA (or 1 watt) as mentioned in the first post of this thread.

My Cruiser is a ’97 and your experience might be different. But for anyone doing this mod, you might do some testing to make sure you don’t create unnecessary parasitic drain. Simply disconnecting the AUTO backlight on the window switch might not be sufficient.
 
Did this mod a long time ago; not happy with battery drain. I'm going backwards on this, reinstalling the relay and saving my battery.
 
I plan on doing this mod but will add a switch in line to enable/disable as needed to avoid any drain and be able to use it camping.
 
I never experience a heavy drain .. I mean my 80 been resting for 4 - 5 and still starting strong ..
 
I'll try it in a week

I have the TVSS and would like to do this mod. I am out of town for another week, but when I return, I'll check mine out.
Side note though:
PO of my rig had a crud aftermarket key fob system put in on top of the TVSS. I suppose they lost a fob or two. I yanked all of that stuff out, bought refurbished key fobs, programmed them and all the locks work and lights work when truck is locked/unlocked, but the chirper doesn't function.
Been driving me nuts:bang:, so I have to get into that panel anyhow.
Point is; mine might not function either.
Wouldn't it or couldn't it be a matter of where they (TVSS installer) stole power from?

When I bought my 97 everything but the chirper was working when locking/unlocking with the key fob. It turned out to be an issue with the actual chirper. Took it into radio shack and they had a suitable replacement. Its slightly louder than stock but sounds very similar.
 
Random question - could a switch be incorporated into this mod and then it would switch back to key-activated? I'm a lousy electrician, just wondering since I now have a Gentex mirror and it's also drawing on my batter and I'd like to just switch this on when I camp, not the rest of the time.
 
Random question - could a switch be incorporated into this mod and then it would switch back to key-activated? I'm a lousy electrician, just wondering since I now have a Gentex mirror and it's also drawing on my batter and I'd like to just switch this on when I camp, not the rest of the time.

It would be easy to kill the power so they will not work at all but to make it so you can switch back and forth is possible just not as easy.
 
It would be easy to kill the power so they will not work at all but to make it so you can switch back and forth is possible just not as easy.

Thank you @LandCruiserPhil I suspected something like this. Glad I did not simply put a toggle switch on a longer jumper. Can anyone put in layman's terms what a workable solution would require?
 
Thank you @LandCruiserPhil I suspected something like this. Glad I did not simply put a toggle switch on a longer jumper. Can anyone put in layman's terms what a workable solution would require?

Though not ideal it sounds like a switch would work for your needs. No window or sun roof power with the switch off power to everything with the switch on. I have factory fog light switches in stock that could be relabeled.



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