wind noise uppermost corner driver side front door (1 Viewer)

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has anyone figured out the cause of the wind noise at the top of the driver side door? i've seen other threads of people having luck replacing the door weatherstripping so i just replaced the front and rear driver side door weatherstrips, which cost me $180 for the pair and while the doors seam to seal better (they require much more force to close), the wind noise is still there at highway speeds. the weirdest thing is that the noise only appeared about a month ago - never had an issue before. it sounds like the window is cracked open or the door isn't shut all the way.

it's driving me crazy. please help!!
 
If it ends up being the window channel guide this thread has been helpful for a few folks I know.

 
I’ve changed the outer door seal and the window channel. They both were improvements, but I still have that same leak. I think it’s the inner door seal. I have two, but you can only get them in gray, so I haven’t decided how to paint them beige to finish the job.
 
If door seal or window seal. Moving ones hand around area, may change noise, to aid in pin pointing.

One can, also pressurize the cabin and use soapy water, looking for bubbles formation on outside.

Number one question I ask, when wind noise is heard. Has windshield been replaced?
If so, first few things I check for:
  • Are inner molding (narrow strip ~3/4"x32") inside the windshield side moldings. covering the rivets.
  • Are all 4 rivets in their factory holes through each sides side-molding into "A' pillars factory holes.
  • Any leaks in black poly adhesive used around perimeter, used to glue/seal windshield to body.
  • Any rust or bubbles in paint around windshield.
Are all hood seal in place and properly fasten.

Are factory windshield wipers in place. Consider windshield wipers size and position, if aftermarket. Easy test here is turn on wipers while driving once noise heard.

Break in factory installed windshield seal are not common, but!
Any accident, or twisting of frame. The manual warns us when lifting (jacking up) vehicle, as to points to be used. I've found, it's possible to break the windshield, twisting frame by lifting opposing points (example: RL & FR). This could also happen driving in uneven terrain. Where one front and one rear tire off the ground. I suppose, these condition could break the seal, without breaking the glass.

Keeping in mind: Some wind noise is normal. The points that seem to yield the most, are: Wipers, side mirrors, roof rack rails., placement of rain channel molding.
 
@Bisho do you have pics of this seal? when i think inner door seal, i think of the D-shaped black rubber that seals against the door weatherstripping. is that what you're talking about?

@2001LC thank you for your in-depth reply. my windshield is in fact aftermarket and while there havent been any water leaks, i know it wasn't the cleanest job bc the DS A-pillar interior trim is permanently glued down (i was trying to run a wire down the A-pillar and it was impossible to remove).

that being said, the sound is definitely coming from at or behind my left ear when im driving, which makes me think the corner of the door, farthest from the hinge, is not sealing properly. is there a way to adjust how closely the door clamps to the body when shut?
 
@Bisho do you have pics of this seal? when i think inner door seal, i think of the D-shaped black rubber that seals against the door weatherstripping. is that what you're talking about?

@2001LC thank you for your in-depth reply. my windshield is in fact aftermarket and while there havent been any water leaks, i know it wasn't the cleanest job bc the DS A-pillar interior trim is permanently glued down (i was trying to run a wire down the A-pillar and it was impossible to remove).

that being said, the sound is definitely coming from at or behind my left ear when im driving, which makes me think the corner of the door, farthest from the hinge, is not sealing properly. is there a way to adjust how closely the door clamps to the body when shut?
I've run-into glued on inner molding before. PITA to remove without damage. I've used a razor, in a handle for reach. It's just one of the reasons, I personally remove and install all molding.

Upper rear corner of door leak, if seal good. May indicate accident damage, doors' alignment been adjusted (poorly) before, hinges are worn and or latch & hook allowing door to drop. Check alignment of door. Hinges and latch can be adjusted.

But keep in mind a leak in "A" pillar. The sound may travel up along body inner molding and headliner area, out near and behind left ear.

Finding the leak:

I've used a can of windshield cleaner. Spray around perimeter of windshield. Then use, compressed air to blow from inside around perimeter. While watching for air bubbles. This can be done around doors seal also. A good foamy bubbling car soap can also be used.

I've also used a leaf blower in rear side window. Run inner cabin fan on high, with vent set to fresh outside air. To further increase cabin air pressure, block rear 1/4 side vents with tape.

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I've run-into glued on inner molding before. PITA to remove without damage. I've used a razor, in a handle for reach. It's just one of the reasons, I personally remove and install all molding.

Upper rear corner of door leak, if seal good. May indicate accident damage, doors' alignment been adjusted (poorly) before, hinges are worn and or latch & hook allowing door to drop. Check alignment of door. Hinges and latch can be adjusted.

But keep in mind a leak in "A" pillar. The sound may travel up along body inner molding and headliner area, out near and behind left ear.

Finding the leak:

I've used a can of windshield cleaner. Spray around perimeter of windshield. Then use, compressed air to blow from inside around perimeter. While watching for air bubbles. This can be done around doors seal also. A good foamy bubbling car soap can also be used.

I've also a leaf blower in rear side window. Run inner cabin fan on high, with vent set to fresh outside air. To further increase cabin air pressure, block rear 1/4 side vents with tape.

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amazing as always. thank you!! I will definitely try this.
 
@Bisho do you have pics of this seal? when i think inner door seal, i think of the D-shaped black rubber that seals against the door weatherstripping. is that what you're talking about?

@2001LC thank you for your in-depth reply. my windshield is in fact aftermarket and while there havent been any water leaks, i know it wasn't the cleanest job bc the DS A-pillar interior trim is permanently glued down (i was trying to run a wire down the A-pillar and it was impossible to remove).

that being said, the sound is definitely coming from at or behind my left ear when im driving, which makes me think the corner of the door, farthest from the hinge, is not sealing properly. is there a way to adjust how closely the door clamps to the body when shut?
Our truck have a door seal on the door, and one on the body. I mean the one on the body. I can take a picture later.
 
has anyone figured out the cause of the wind noise at the top of the driver side door? i've seen other threads of people having luck replacing the door weatherstripping so i just replaced the front and rear driver side door weatherstrips, which cost me $180 for the pair and while the doors seam to seal better (they require much more force to close), the wind noise is still there at highway speeds. the weirdest thing is that the noise only appeared about a month ago - never had an issue before. it sounds like the window is cracked open or the door isn't shut all the way.

it's driving me crazy. please help!!
My seal has started to shrink. I can see light at the top rear corner. My air leak started slowly.
 
Our truck have a door seal on the door, and one on the body. I mean the one on the body. I can take a picture later.
ah ok we're talking about the same thing then. just didn't know some trucks had it in beige!

replacing the window channel seal solved the problem for me
i'll check out that thread.
 
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Check to see if the top corner of the door is seating fully when it’s closed. Easiest way to do that is to put your ear to the outside of the rear passenger window and look down the top line of the doors towards the front.

Mine had the same issue and I found the top of the door was about 1/4” out of line from the rest of the vehicle. Turns out the PO’s college-aged daughter had a habit of locking her keys in it. I’m assuming a locksmith went a little too wild with the airbag and tweaked the top of the door during one of the several lockout calls.

After a few you tube videos I managed to muscle the door back into line. Wind noise solved.
 
Check to see if the top corner of the door is seating fully when it’s closed. Easiest way to do that is to put your ear to the outside of the rear passenger window and look down the top line of the doors towards the front.

Mine had the same issue and I found the top of the door was about 1/4” out of line from the rest of the vehicle. Turns out the PO’s college-aged daughter had a habit of locking her keys in it. I’m assuming a locksmith went a little too wild with the airbag and tweaked the top of the door during one of the several lockout calls.

After a few you tube videos I managed to muscle the door back into line. Wind noise solved.
yoooo any chance you have the links to those videos? mine definitely sticks out further than the PS door. that has to be it.
 
actually just found a video by roadside guy. i'm going to try this now!
 
yoooo any chance you have the links to those videos? mine definitely sticks out further than the PS door. that has to be it.
I was thinking about closing the door on a 2x4 and using a ratchet strap from one side to the other, crank down, and see if that would bend it back to place.
 
actually just found a video by roadside guy. i'm going to try this now!
That’s the one!

Have patience and go slow. It probably too me an hour or so to get it flush. I can’t even begin to imagine how expensive it would be if you go too far…
 

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