Where should I buy a radiator?

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mrjordann

mrjordann

Joined
Feb 22, 2017
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Location
SW Washington, USA
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Hello! New to cruisers. I just bought my first (1973 FJ40). My truck's radiator has a huge section punctured and cut out. Needless to say, it needs to be replaced.

My question is-- where should I get a radiator? What's the best place to find a quality radiator (or any engine parts)?

Thanks in advance
 
Here is the part number 16400-49356

Order through Beno or see if your local Toyota dealer will extend you a discount so you can avoid shipping.

Supporting MUD vendors is always a good thing. :)
 
mrjordann said:
Hello! New to cruisers. I just bought my first (1973 FJ40). My truck's radiator has a huge section punctured and cut out. Needless to say, it needs to be replaced.

My question is-- where should I get a radiator? What's the best place to find a quality radiator (or any engine parts)?

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
I'm just getting started too. 1972 FJ 40. Would there be any advantage to going with all aluminum, 3 or 4 core, vs stock?
Thanks
 
Get OEM from @beno. I just replaced my 39 year old original with a new OEM from him. Stock radiator is designed to work with your Land Cruiser and works very well.
Pay for quality or pay to do it again later.
 
back in the day(ie 10+ years ago) I would say a re-core by a local radiator shop would be cost effective, but today I suspect its not, my guess is your looking at $200+ and your old radiator may just not be up for a re-core.....they are all old now. New OEM from Toyota is well under $300(if your a smart shopper), your never going to make a 30-50 year old rad NEW again. Chances are also good Toyota will not have new fj40 rad's forever, so now is a very good time to get a brand new one.

going way back, I had one re-cored in my 78 celica in about 1985, think it was $90, gas was $1 a gallon and minimum wage was about $5 an hour......oh and I had hair ;) a new OEM rad will not bring my hair back but it will keep my 40's alive for years to come......which helps keep what I have on my head ;)

mrjordann said:
Oh, I didn't know people could do that. Do you think it would be worth it to have it re-cored instead of replaced? (considering price/quality?)
Click to expand...
 
I bought mine from a place called Performance Radiator. They have various locations around the US and are good quality.

3.9 Liters, 6 Cyl, 236 CI
 
I have one of theirs in a 40, 60 and 62 they are good and what my local dealer used if someone does not want to pay for oem(no oem for 60 or.62 anymore). I have had zero issues. But back when I got them(10+ years ago) they were under $200, now it's cheaper to get an OEM from toyota. The performance rads also use the smaller rad cap(not included ). New oem includes the cap (big)

ibinazbass said:
I bought mine from a place called Performance Radiator. They have various locations around the US and are good quality.

3.9 Liters, 6 Cyl, 236 CI
Click to expand...
 
Landpimp said:
I have one of theirs in a 40, 60 and 62 they are good and what my local dealer used if someone does not want to pay for oem(no oem for 60 or.62 anymore). I have had zero issues. But back when I got them(10+ years ago) they were under $200, now it's cheaper to get an OEM from toyota. The performance rads also use the smaller rad cap(not included ). New oem includes the cap (big)
Click to expand...
Would you recommend an OEM rad over an aluminum performance one?
 
mrjordann said:
Would you recommend an OEM rad over an aluminum performance one?
Click to expand...
Absolutely--no caveats on this--the Al will through oxides into the block/head that you will never be able to get out without acid cleaning--which will result in pockets in the steel, forming corrosion points that will not be "cleanable".
 
/this\

I have seen so many leaky aluminum radiators come thru the shop on customers rigs that I flat out would not install one if a customer brought one to me.

And @Landpimp is right too. Current cost of a recore here is much more than OEM. But if you need a real high efficiency core, you gotta pay. Ask @Vintij74 about the difference.
 
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mrjordann said:
Oh, I didn't know people could do that. Do you think it would be worth it to have it re-cored instead of replaced? (considering price/quality?)
Click to expand...

I had mine at a shop I trusted back in May '15 and when they told me they could not fix my leak It was quicker to re-core than find/buy OEM. I knew the shop did quality work and used quality products from prior experience over the years. Did it look brand new when done, almost and they said the end caps were good.

DSC01911.webp


Less than the cost of an OEM and less time and labor on my part so all was good. :)
 
I got a great deal on a oem radiator from Titus will toyota from their online website. 25% off and only $5 to pickup at the dealership. It was a beautiful sight to see when I opened the box!!
 
sggoat said:
Absolutely--no caveats on this--the Al will through oxides into the block/head that you will never be able to get out without acid cleaning--which will result in pockets in the steel, forming corrosion points that will not be "cleanable".
Click to expand...

If this were a problem, all F and 2F motor owners would already be screwed, they have aluminum water pump, thermostat housings, etc. Fortunately it's not an issue, lots of motors come from the factory with aluminum radiators and iron blocks, with no issues.
 
65swb45 said:
/this\

I have seen so many leaky aluminum radiators come thru the shop on customers rigs that I flat out would not install one if a customer brought one to me.
Click to expand...

At one time, would have fully agreed, now only use copper radiators on full restorations. Aluminum radiators have improved in construction and its becoming more difficult to find conventional antifreeze to protect the copper ones.

65swb45 said:
And @Landpimp is right too. Current cost of a recore here is much more than OEM. But if you need a real high efficiency core, you gotta pay. Ask @Vintij74 about the difference.
Click to expand...

A properly designed aluminum radiator can easily be significantly more efficient than copper. Almost all commonly available antifreeze is biased to protecting aluminum, because no cars have come with brass or solder in them for a few decades.

Copper is more easily repaired, but it's a dying art, because no one except collector car owners have it done. We recently lost our last trusted shop, between the EPA pressures/expenses and low demand, he closed and retired. One of the repair challenges with the early radiators is the mixed metals, steel, brass and copper. The ideal repair for each differs, but they have to be stuck together, so compromise, often ends with side brackets coming loose from the tanks, etc.

The reality; new aluminum radiators are often a fraction of the price of having a copper repaired or replaced, basically disposable. Due to the available antifreeze, copper radiators are not likely to see the life that they did in the past and has improved the life of aluminum. A lighter, smaller, cheaper aluminum radiator, will often out perform a copper one. Other than a full classic restoration, or emotional/nostalgic reasons, don't see the point of copper.
 
Landpimp said:
I have one of theirs in a 40, 60 and 62 they are good and what my local dealer used if someone does not want to pay for oem(no oem for 60 or.62 anymore). I have had zero issues. But back when I got them(10+ years ago) they were under $200, now it's cheaper to get an OEM from toyota. The performance rads also use the smaller rad cap(not included ). New oem includes the cap (big)
Click to expand...

Do you know if the OEM Toyota one is a 3 core or 4 core? My performance radiator one is a 3 core and the SBC runs a little too warm with just the 3...
 
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