What's a reasonable cost expectation for painting my 80 series ? (1 Viewer)

[DirtScaresMe]

I'm hearing rhino liners and rattle cans, I live in a mountain town and my truck gets knocked around a lot. I literally use the right slider every mid-winter day to ease up onto an ice ledge and slide down it into my driveway.

I love the idea of a pimped paint job but for something that gets beat up, am I really looking at ghetto-backyard-spraypaint or rhino liners?

 

[Kernal]

As others have said; for a good job that will last, $5-10K. There are many variables starting with the quality of the paint and supplies ($500-1500) and what prep work has to be done. Don't even consider it if you aren't going to (at least) remove the door handles and fender flares along with the front lights and grill and rear tail lights and most of the door/window weather- stripping and molding; all that you can do yourself. If the windshield has ever been replaced there is likely rust under the gasket, so removing the windshield is something else to consider. The cheapo paint jobs ($1500) will paint right over the door handle and fender flare gaskets which means if you ever have to take them off you have to break the paint layer to get them off. FWIW

 

[Brad6260]

If your truck is the bottom one ant what you want is on top then yes. It will take a lot of money in mods to get there. These trucks take a lot of time and money to get built. My truck looks more similar to the one n top. Like most people here i spent several years building it, getting deals on parts or finding used parts. It is a long costly process for sure. My paint is way worse than yours. In my opinion it looks just fine on a truck that is usually dirty and covered in pin striping from the trail. Not trying to sound like a dick about this, just trying to be honest.

And to rub salt in the wound you are way under on the guesstimate of tires and roof rack. My STT Pros just cost me around $1200 for 5 mounted and balanced and my Gamiviti rack was around $800 which is way cheaper than most roof racks. Unless you have a welder, skill and time there is no cheap way to do this. I dont have any of those 3 things personally. good luck!

I appreciate the honest feedback and wish you were telling me anything I hadn't already suspected. I held out hope that a $1000.00 Maaco job might give me what I could be satisfied with but that doesn't appear to be the case. I'll nurse my Bridgestones along and am a big fan of Coopers at3 tires when need be. I fell into this cruiser two years ago for so little I'm embarrassed to say and love it as my almost daily driver. My 16 Suburban hardly moves.

Regards !

 

[ppc]

Personally I would try a good multistage machine buffing, clay bar, polish and see what you get. Repaint your flares if damaged as many others have done with a flat black or bed liner. If needed you could redo the clear for a fraction of the cost to totally repaint.

 

[Brad6260]

I can imagine the response I'll get with this but I will toss it out anyway. Just no way I can justify the repaint route in the foreseeable future and after researching ppc's comment about multi stage buffing etc there is no doubt my main issue is the failure of my clear coat. So aside from doing nothing and looking at my hack job budget options I am curious if anyone has used this product and I welcome opinions.




SprayMax 2K clear coat

2 component clear coat with very high chemical, petrol and weather resistance for high-quality and long lasting sealing of repairs and new paint jobs on vehicles and motorcycles.

Advantages

• Greatest abrasion and scratch resistance
• Very smooth flowing
• Permanent high gloss
• Very good buffability
• No colour tone deviation
• Excellent paint condition
• Also suitable at higher ambient temperatures

Technical Information
Application:

• Touch-ups on parts and repair paint areas
• Solvent and water-diluted basecoat systems after drying according to manufacturer’s instructions
• Old paint, cleaned and sanded

• e again.

Spray application:

• 1-2 spray applications
• Approx. 30μm per spray application
• Flash off time between the sprays: 10-15 min depending on temperature

Drying times:

• 12h at 20°C
• 35-30 min at 60°C
• IR drying recommended

Application life:

• 48h at 20°C room temperature
• The application life depends on the ambient temperature
• Higher temperatures lead to shortened, lower temperatures to a longer pot life.

Gloss level:

• High gloss

Thanks again for your input

 

[lcgeek]

from the pics, it looks like the hood is major problem area...or where else is clear coat bad?

 

[Brad6260]

Small area ( 8"x8" ) above the front windshield also has some clear coat issue.

 

[viol8r44]

PLASTIDIP! Check out dipyourcar.com you can get an awesome kit with the sprayer included for 700 bucks or less do it your self in your garage and it looks awesome...if you get a scratch peel off that panel and respray it! If you get tired of the color 2 years from now peel it off and respray it. The key is to spray it on thick..as many coats as you can. I have it on the front grill of all my cars and it saves them from getting rock dings from the highway. Check out dipyourcar on youtube too shows you exactly what you need to do.

 

[LandyCruiser]

What was the outcome on this??

 

[bicycleagent003]

Plasti-Dip is horrible. It looks awful within months, that is not a solution. It was a trend, but it's passed. Don't do that. A wrap would be much better, though can also be very costly. You could just wrap the hood, even with something cool like camo or a topo map, etc.