What's a fair offer? (1 Viewer)

[Oregon LC]

1979 has not moved in 25 years. Bad motor, whatever that means. Located on the west coast, despite what the plate on the back says. Dryish climate though, not sure if it's been outside the whole time. Decent parts rig or possibly a future driver project. I do know the short comings of a 79 newer rig.

Probably a 4 hour drive for me, so prefer to establish a ballpark price with seller before i visit. What do you all think a good starting point offer is? Guy is asking 10k, been for sale for awhile.

 

[jestlurnin]

5K

 

[Oregon LC]

More pics

 

[Oregon LC]

5K

Exactly what I was thinking.

 

[cruiserboy14]

See how much bondo is on it. 5-10 ish… depends on what’s up with the engine..

 

[pb4ugo]

Its probably not worth the trip, unless he's willing to drop his price drastically. Cut 1/4's and it's missing a lot of stuff. Its probably pretty rusty underneath. What's the last date on the license plate. Mi is not known for rust free.

 

[Oregon LC]

Its probably not worth the trip, unless he's willing to drop his price drastically. Cut 1/4's and it's missing a lot of stuff. Its probably pretty rusty underneath. What's the last date on the license plate. Mi is not known for rust free.

Looks like tags say 94. I would assume the tub is shot. Potential parts rig or new tub at this point.

 

[bhsdriller]

2k

 

[Living in the Past]

I do know the short comings of a 79 newer rig.

For years I wished my 79 was a 78. Now glad it's not. Guess if you consider a 22 1/2 gallon fuel tank verses 16 1/2 tank, easier to install a H55F and the split transfer case along with a few others things 8/80+ down side. There are down sides but also some worth while improvements. The 3:70 diffs with a split case with 4:1 low range isn't a bad setup.

 

[Oregon LC]

For years I wished my 79 was a 78. Now glad it's not. Guess if you consider a 22 1/2 gallon fuel tank verses 16 1/2 tank, easier to install a H55F and the split transfer case along with a few others things 8/80+ down side. There are down sides but also some worth while improvements. The 3:70 diffs with a split case with 4:1 low range isn't a bad setup.

Agreed. I was referring to the later model rust issues.

 

[Living in the Past]

Agreed. I was referring to the later model rust issues.

Actually personally believe the 79+ rear sill was a better designa. extremely lucky to have five tubs made between 1962 and 1976 with original rust free rear sills that I can tell exactly how they were put together. Have three early cruisers with completely rotted rear sill and can tell why they rusted out like they did. You also have to consider the support for replacement tubs and panels favors the 79+ 40 series.

 

[Pura Vida]

No way a non running rig is anywhere near 10k. 7k maximum, and that’s stretching it. 5k is a good number.

 

[John in Utah]

No way a non running rig is anywhere near 10k.

Ya that’s just not true. It all depends on rust, what comes with it, and what’s wrong with the engine.

 

[JVZii]

7 or 8k

My first 79 had a good motor but terrible body rot. In retrospect I would have preferred a clean body/doors/fender/hood etc over a bad motor any day. I would much rather source and engine than a tub thats for sure.

For me if the frame is good, the fenders, hood, doors, tub (especially the frame mounts) look pretty straight and are rust free. I would say its not a bad place to start. Also check for a title those are important for resale I think.

Maybe 10k is a bit steep (since there is something funky with those fenders) for this setup but but how many late model somewhat unmolested and nearly complete 40s are there for sale in the United States right now for 7 or 8k running or not?

Send me a list of them and I will buy them all

 

[mattcamp]

Doesn't look that bad to me, some replacement panels and a used 2f would get you on the road to recovery but I'd try and keep it around 7k. It's got nice doors all around and a nice hardtop. Can't believe it's never been swapped to unlocking hubs, I've only gotten one like that. Looks pretty unmolested, actually. I'd see if it sits around for a bit, then you can wheel and deal, because at 10k it's not one of those "grab it asap" situations.

 

[Living in the Past]

No way a non running rig is anywhere near 10k. 7k maximum, and that’s stretching it. 5k is a good number.

Here are some pictures with my 76 in them.
Got it started and drove it about 50' fourteen years ago. Have Not started it since. Previous owners only put 4,500 miles on it. No way would I let go for anywhere close to.$10K.

 

[Pierps]

That rig is going to need a lot of rust repair if you're looking to do a restoration. Rear quarters, rockers, rear floor. Rust coming through the rear wheel wells where the supports are (common). Willing to bet you need a rear sill, front floors, and the front fenders probably have rust behind the supports. If there's that much rust visible in the pictures, then there's probably twice that elsewhere: Door bottoms, drip rail on the hard top, the list goes on. The rust tends to come from the inside out, so you don't see it until it's almost completely eaten through the panel. That means you won't really know the scope of it until the paint is removed.

I've repaired or replaced all of those panels on my rig (a '76). If you haven't done it before, I just want to caution you that it's a ton of work and a good chunk of change. If the motor is actually toast, you're really just talking about buying a frame, suspension, axles, transmission and transfer case (I'm being dramatic, but you get the idea). Value is a highly personal concept.... knowing what I know now, PERSONALLY, I would pass. Even if the guy would take $3k for it, it wouldn't be worth it to me. Value wise, it makes sense to spend $30k on a really good rig that needs work but doesn't need all of the panels replaced or a new motor. The value of these trucks is increasing, so that gives you the option to hold it for a while and have fun driving it... and if you decide FJ40's aren't for you, assuming you take good care of it, you'll make money when you sell it on.

Hate to be a Debbie downer, but that's what I've learned after spending probably $40k and close to 2,000 hours on my rig so far (and counting).

 

[Shark56]

The Roof fiberglass has taken a hit and is deformed. Body is shot. I would want to see pics of the frame before making that drive to see it.
From my limited experience, just from the body, the rust is extensive. If it had a good motor and was running $2000 is fair.
Doors look really good compared to the rest of the body. Hard top side look good from the pics.
Missing a hub on the drivers side. Who knows how long ago that was pulled...
I bought a running 79 that looked that bad. The motor, drive train and axles made it worth the cost. If the motor was running it definitely would not have been worth the $800 I paid 15 years ago. On todays market that $800 would be worth $2000 but that was a good motor..

 

[Skreddy]

Here are some pictures with my 76 in them.
Got it started and drove it about 50' fourteen years ago. Have Not started it since. Previous owners only put 4,500 miles on it. No way would I let go for anywhere close to.$10K.
View attachment 2761943
View attachment 2761947
View attachment 2762003

The cruisers in your pics and the one in question are not even in the same league. I’d agree that prices are going up rapidly on pretty beat cruisers; but if you get anywhere $10k, I’m buying a gooseneck and heading your way ASAP.
I am not as familiar with the details of the later cruisers and I personally like the 68-72 best, but I’d say the one that’s the topic of this thread would get me looking in the $3500-6000 range. Pics are pretty poor to make any good decisions based on them and the fact it was a Michigan(?) truck would really make me scared of rust.

 

[mattcamp]

The Roof fiberglass has taken a hit and is deformed. Body is shot. I would want to see pics of the frame before making that drive to see it.
From my limited experience, just from the body, the rust is extensive. If it had a good motor and was running $2000 is fair.
Doors look really good compared to the rest of the body. Hard top side look good from the pics.
Missing a hub on the drivers side. Who knows how long ago that was pulled...
I bought a running 79 that looked that bad. The motor, drive train and axles made it worth the cost. If the motor was running it definitely would not have been worth the $800 I paid 15 years ago. On todays market that $800 would be worth $2000 but that was a good motor..

I don't think the hubs are missing, they just aren't unlockable.