What is your plan for the 60 Travis?
Whatchu Workin' On?
- Thread starter Fitzgerald
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Dude that looks like a lot of work!! Not sure I could do something like that, Maybe one day. My stuff doesn't compare to what your doing that's for sure.
I am waiting on some armor that is coming in the mail for the jeep. I will take some pics when it all shows up.
I am waiting on some armor that is coming in the mail for the jeep. I will take some pics when it all shows up.
Tested the solenoids to the winch on the 80, both are functioning. Tested the winch motor by jumping armature to F1 and then applying 12V to F2. Then opposite. No dice, meaning no motor engagement.
[Edit 3 Feb 15] I disassembled the winch and found that the motor was corroded from moisture penetration. Some cleaning (read: routine maintenance) would have prevented this. It's cleaned-up and functioning properly now.
[Edit 3 Feb 15] I disassembled the winch and found that the motor was corroded from moisture penetration. Some cleaning (read: routine maintenance) would have prevented this. It's cleaned-up and functioning properly now.
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Both the transfer and Trans are leaking from the seals and pans. Wasn't too bad to pull it all at the same time. I'll probably install the engine/Trans as a unit, the. Unsta the transfer after.
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Working on the hard top...got the sides sealed and installed. The last of the parts for the rear hatch (handle, weather stripping, hardware, lock) should all be here in the next couple of days so that will be installed. Then its time to order door parts and seals...
It looks like you made pretty quick work of getting the engine and trans out of the truck. I hope it ends up being easy enough to get the whole thing in and out of the truck as a unit, since I think it will be easier to do the assembly outside of the truck.
Just the trans and motor should be a cakewalk. The transfer case really made it more difficult.
My next 2 weekends are 4 day weekends. So that gives me atleast 4 solid days (the ones the wife is working) to get down and get stuff back together. Hope my gaskets get here soon!
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Got the rear hatch installed. Have some gap issues on the driver side I'll need to figure out but it looks good.
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Finished up the last couple of items on the rear hatch and dug into the wiring harness. The only damage is a melted wire from the fuse block to a splice to the alternator wire. I'm thinking I may be able to just replace this one wire. Culprit...possibly found a ground wire I hadn't hooked up or the delco 12SI alternator was pushing too much through the wire and I need a higher gauge. Have an email in to the expert coolerman!
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So I heard back from coolerman this morning...here is what he had to say: That ground wire is THE most important ground on a 1971 FJ40!!! It grounds the alternator, regulator, head lights, VSV, wipers, heater and the emissions computer. Hopefully you have the WB wire going to the alternator case? If that is not connected, AND the alternator case is not grounded well through it’s mounting bracket, the alternator will try to pull current through “other” wires. You can also just run a ground wire straight from the alternator case to the frame or body. Use at least 14 ga wire for the ground wire. So long story short, I didn't have that grounded, so I melted the wire. But it looks like an easy fix...cut out the old wire, replace the new, hook up the ground, and add a ground wire to the alternator. Fingers crossed this will be the last of the electrical issues...
Just wait until I finish with the jeep and we can take them both on a shakedown run down carnage. Lol
You will have to wait a few more years for that though so go ahead without me first. All jokes aside but it's looking real nice. I wouldnt get it to dirty if it was mine.
You will have to wait a few more years for that though so go ahead without me first. All jokes aside but it's looking real nice. I wouldnt get it to dirty if it was mine.
Got all the gaskets and seals I need to start putting things back together. Since I have off on Monday, I'll start doing that. Should have the head back on Monday as well. Hopefully next weekend (a 4 day weekend as well), I'll really be able to make some progress. Guess I should get these injectors sent in for a cleaning/rebuild...
Tore the winch down last night, and believe it or not, there is no internal damage. Even the magnesium cross bars survived. The Mai. Drive gear separated from the drum and chewed up the teeth a little and wouldn't let it re-engage. That saved the winch. Cleaned up the teeth with a triangle file and put it back together. Ordered a new drum support from summit racing because the mount bolt that let loose damaged the mount foot. Bought a new solenoid cover and control wire socket, a drum socket and gasket. Puts this at $213 for a $500 winch.
This will replace the untrustworthy, 8000 pound advertised/ 4000 pound actual pull, Harbor Freight winch on heathers Jeep that doesn't want to work unless it's above 30 degrees. Can't figure out how the cold can affect a winch operation, unless the grease is freezing the gears before the Planetaries. Stupid thing. Hopefully the new "badlands" winches are better than the previous maker. Don't buy winches that don't say Warn on them!!! These things are tough!
Got some work done today on the motor. Everything is off the old motor except the water pump (I have a newer one going on). I had to swapped over the oil pans, and since there's a step in the 80 pan, I had to swap out the oil pickup as well. That gasket is a PITA as well. Also replaced the pushrod cover gasket.
Pretty sure the old motor leaked from every available source. Pushrod cover, valve cover gasket, oil pan, rear main seal.
I know the one issue I will run into is getting the dizzy back in right. Anyone got any experience with that on an F motor?
Pretty sure the old motor leaked from every available source. Pushrod cover, valve cover gasket, oil pan, rear main seal.
I know the one issue I will run into is getting the dizzy back in right. Anyone got any experience with that on an F motor?
I had a whole weekend of trouble because I replaced my distributor one tooth out of position a while back. I couldn't get it to idle <2k rpm, couldn't get the timing set, etc.
The FSM tells you exactly what to do. You just have to align EVERYTHING (oil pump shaft through distributor mounting hole, motor at TDC, and the rotational position of the distributor rotor) EXACTLY how it says:
Where I went wrong: I aligned the distributor as shown in the second picture before insertion. When the distributor gear engages, the rotor turns as you insert fully. In this case, the timing was advanced by one full tooth, and the engine could not be timed.
In case you don't have the FSM: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/3fe-fsm.593431/
Installing the distributor while the motor is out of the truck should make the timing marks on the flywheel much easier to see, too.
Exactly why I'm doing it now. Thanks for the link for the FSM. Working with a Haynes, but most of it is pretty self explanatory. I'll have a crack at the dizzy again this weekend.