What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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Took the long loop around town.
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Took the drums off and replaced them with a pair of new ones. So, the rig remains road-worthy while I get the old ones machined. It occurred to me that I could start at a baseline-measurement, adjusting the amount the wheel cylinder adjusting bolts to protrude equally on both sides, just barely allowing for the installation of the drum over the shoes. Sure enough, it was close, not much rotation of the adjusters, from the much more challenging backing plate side, was necessary, and it was about equal amount of adjustment needed for each cylinder.
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A little longer shakedown run after ball and claw front knuckle rebuild, 4 wheel disc brakes / all new brake lines, and a re-wire. After tightening the ammeter connection and replacing the hose clamp on the heater line, I’m almost there. Without the side panel gasket leaking, the oil pan gasket has started to leak pretty badly. And my steering isn’t as nearly precise as it should be. Slowly but surely…

@65swb45 do you still have 3 bolt to 4 bolt master cylinder firewall adapters?
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Adjusted my front wheel bearings. They were loose, and you could feel it in the tires, top and bottom. Now they are snug. Preload is important, but, I don't have a fish-scale to measure it, yet; any suggestions for an analog one that I can buy without internet-ordering it?
 
Adjusted my front wheel bearings. They were loose, and you could feel it in the tires, top and bottom. Now they are snug. Preload is important, but, I don't have a fish-scale to measure it, yet; any suggestions for an analog one that I can buy without internet-ordering it?
I’ve used the same luggage scale I use to make sure I’m not overloaded at the airport on 3 knuckle jobs.
 
Adjusted my front wheel bearings. They were loose, and you could feel it in the tires, top and bottom. Now they are snug. Preload is important, but, I don't have a fish-scale to measure it, yet; any suggestions for an analog one that I can buy without internet-ordering it?
Where are you located? I have one that I will ship to you if you send it back when you’re finished.
 
Adjusted my front wheel bearings. They were loose, and you could feel it in the tires, top and bottom. Now they are snug. Preload is important, but, I don't have a fish-scale to measure it, yet; any suggestions for an analog one that I can buy without internet-ordering it?

Do you have any big box stores around? Or a local sporting good store?

I would bet there are 5 different places in my town with one for sale. Although I live in the “country” where fishing is more popular than golf
 
I bought a fish scale for the knuckle rebuild. I've never used something like that for any 4wd wheel bearings. I usually torque the nut to about 40 or 50 ft/lbs, spin the hub, then back it off about an 1/8 turn , then spin the hub.
 
My fsm dated 74. It says basically what I described and pictures drum brakes. They don't reference torque spec. What's it say the resistance is supposed to be?
 
A little longer shakedown run after ball and claw front knuckle rebuild, 4 wheel disc brakes / all new brake lines, and a re-wire. After tightening the ammeter connection and replacing the hose clamp on the heater line, I’m almost there. Without the side panel gasket leaking, the oil pan gasket has started to leak pretty badly. And my steering isn’t as nearly precise as it should be. Slowly but surely…

@65swb45 do you still have 3 bolt to 4 bolt master cylinder firewall adapters?View attachment 3720369
It's called work in progress, owning a vintage Land Cruiser is very fulfilling for me. Chasing the gremlins or locating the parts is fun!
 
My fsm dated 74. It says basically what I described and pictures drum brakes. They don't reference torque spec. What's it say the resistance is supposed to be?
Hooking the fish scale on the wheel stud, pulling tangentially, the 'revolving weight' preload (starting) should be 6.2 - 12.6 lb. Again, for original disk brake spindles.

I'm still running drum brakes.

I have Warn locking mechanisms. I wonder what the torque spec is for the screws that hold the Warn cone-to-hub? Upon disassembly, they broke free with so little resistance. The equivalent 'flange' for drum-brake-spindles is 10-16 ft.-lbs, and for disk-brake-spindles it is 21-25ft.-lbs, how did it almost double for a very similar design?
 
Mounted a skid plate I got from @shmukster 10 years ago.Thanks man!
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Even tapped some threads successfully like an adult.
 
My headliner has been slowing coming apart for the last year, separating between the vinyl and the foam backing. I used some headliner adhesive as a bandaid but after a humid road trip to the beach for Labor Day the headliner completely separated from the top so I removed it and ordered a replacement from CCOT.

I followed @greenEFSI recent thread and YouTube video, it was a huge help as this was my first headliner attempt - big thanks!! I removed the fiberglass cap with some help from my dad and used a nylon sanding cup to remove the old foam and glue. The area where I had tried to repair was so gummed up with adhesive I couldn’t get it all off but I got the area level so it should be ok with the new headliner. I used 3M Super Trim Adhesive like CCOT recommended and install was pretty straightforward. My only big mistake was trimming the edges of the headliner before I glued them. I did this hoping to avoid wrinkles and I did for the most part but I trimmed the headliner a bit short in a few spots. I didn’t realize it with the top upside down but once it was back in place there are a few areas right at the edge of the top that aren’t completely covered. Pretty minor but I’m a little OCD like most of us so it bugs me, I patched one area above the passenger side door I can see when I drive and it does look a little better.

Overall I’m really pleased. The headliner laid down very flat and looks great. Time will tell how long it stays in place, hoping I don’t have to repeat this project for many years!

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Hooking the fish scale on the wheel stud, pulling tangentially, the 'revolving weight' preload (starting) should be 6.2 - 12.6 lb. Again, for original disk brake spindles.

I'm still running drum brakes.

I have Warn locking mechanisms. I wonder what the torque spec is for the screws that hold the Warn cone-to-hub? Upon disassembly, they broke free with so little resistance. The equivalent 'flange' for drum-brake-spindles is 10-16 ft.-lbs, and for disk-brake-spindles it is 21-25ft.-lbs, how did it almost double for a very similar design?
My rig is completely stock down to those fabulous drum brakes, just don't tailgate and pay attention on the road. Put that phone away!
 
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