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Tom which 40 are you converting to FI?
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Yes the sound IS very much like that of the UPS delivery trucks!!!! One of my brothers first comments on a FJ40Fixed most of the door rattles. They were in the front, and I had no clue that the door adjustment was too far in to make it to the second click. I'll have to wait for some washboard to see. Also used some generic weatherstrip to make it tight.
Drilled out the worn-out carb side hole where the torsion rod on the accelerator linkage goes. Made a tight-fit steel bushing to replace the wasted nylon one from a piece, scrapped from a Hitachi carb from my pickup. Fixed a ton of throttle linkage slop!
Installed a new OEM non-USA 2F carb. Got a Doorman brand choke cable stop. Added a section of wire to go from the idle cut solenoid flat spade to the OE bullet connector. Left it with the rich main jets installed. Manufactured a longer air cleaner threaded rod. I have a bit of a ring in my ears, but, especially, at road speed, I can't really tell when the engine is idling and I'm coasting, or next to other vehicles at a stop light - it's nice to have a low 500-ish rpm in between the fury of the straight-cut transfer case gears, sounding akin to the old UPS delivery trucks. I don't know what was wrong with the old carb, if it was corrosion, or what, but, I unleashed a beast!
Reinstalled the original '75 mouse-nest air cleaner, complete with major rain, snow, and rodent urine patina. I figured that I would let it tell its story - something unique to these old rigs, as auto design these days relies so heavy on obsolete paint and plastic, which ages so poorly, so fast.
Added a hand-throttle that came with a Redline Weber kit for my pickup that I didn't use.
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It is pretty simple. Drill a hole in the plate that operates the old throttle positioner switch for the smog system, about twice the size needed for the super stiff cable. Add a Doorman-brand cable stop. The OEM system relied on a part to hold the cable in place. But, the cable is stiff, and the accelerator pedal swings in an long arc, so I just avoided the extra friction at a couple of points by letting the whole flexible section of the cable do its thing. I took a file to the sharp part of the cable's outer sheath, which was cut, so it doesn't excessively wear the inner wire as it moves.
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It truly is the little things...
Thinking the ‘76, hot starts are a PITA now that it is down here in Surprise with me.Tom which 40 are you converting to FI?
I suppose it could be fabbed.Can the mechanical throttle linkage still be used when going FI? I like the feel of the accelerator pedal with the linkage. Thanks.
I suppose it could be fabbed.
Maybe the Sniper can be clocked 90 degrees so the throttle lever is in the correct location.
That or the linkage needs tweaking...
I'll ponder on it and see what I can figure out...![]()
OK... Thanks for the reference pics.
Is that the vehicle that's getting the refurbished FJ60 distributor?
4crawlerWhere did you get your new center pin/ bolt? The stock ones on my new procomp leaf springs are not long enough for the shims and I could not salvage the original bolts.
I was able to buy Flowmasters largest muffler heat shield #51022 and bend it around my muffler which also helps-it's cheaper than any other kit out there around $30. With little nip and tuck it fit perfectly.
Finally installed a 4K rpm tachometer.
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What a revelation! Now I know a lot more about what's going on with my engine. I can't remember the last vehicle I owned that didn't have one but I've been driving this 40 more than 20 years without one. At tune-up time I have always hooked up a temporary tach and vacuum gauge in the engine bay.
I mounted it to the steering column support under the dash as I didn't want it strapped to the column in front of the cluster. It's not like i need to monitor it every second like a drag racer. It looks kinda cramped but there really is a lot of safety room. I have flopped seat brackets and sit pretty far back so there are no interference issues even with snow boots. My view is like this...
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The tach is an Autometer 2890 Z-series. It's all I need as the cam in this engine is pretty much dead at 3200rpm. I don't think it'll ever see more than 3500. If it does I've got bigger problems than a clapped out gauge. I ran the more brightly colored wires through a short section of black shrink tubing to cut down on the visual clutter but somehow forgot to include the white dash light wire. I can live with it. No way am I de-routing that wire back out of the light switch plug just for aesthetics. If it bothers me I've got a Sharpie at the ready.
Weekend camping trip over the weekend in the Mojave Preserve. Was able to complete the 2nd half this month:
Overall went well, ~600 mile weekend with ~100 of that offroad.
Awesome.... our 2.0 FJ40 will have a 400v system direct drive to Tcase and accomodate DCFC.... think super charger