What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (10 Viewers)

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Awesome! You work quick and make this stuff look easy. Way to innovate.

Rear axle next?


Thanks. No changes to the rear axle. I have 3” lift in the rear. It has a 1-degree rake. CV angles and front driveshaft are 5 degrees. TREs are exactly at 0 degrees.

CA9E7029-CBF8-4303-ABA2-310782A22B1E.jpeg
 
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Got anymore pics? I'm sure others are interested as well.
 
Looking good with some pretty huge clearance you have there now.

With an aggressive rear axle lift, the panhard would sit at a rather steep angle. I wonder if a 100-series panhard relocation could easily adapted and used. Could have handling benefits.

 
Looking good with some pretty huge clearance you have there now.

With an aggressive rear axle lift, the panhard would sit at a rather steep angle. I wonder if a 100-series panhard relocation could easily adapted and used. Could have handling benefits.



100 series is a mirror image for mounting bracket. @Delta VS needs to make some for 200 series. I currently have a tough dog adjustable Panhard bar I got from @TRAIL TAILOR a few years ago.
 
Installed air bags for towing and the OEM strut spacers in front. Came out rather underwhelming for the amount of work.
It raised up a little in the rear from the air bags even at 2.5psi so I didn’t net any improvement on the raked look. The spacers only lifted about 5/8 - 3/4” at the center of the front wheels.
Oh well, something is better than nothing and the air bags were needed. It does feel a little less “wallowy” in the back even with the air bags that low.

Before:
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After:
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Bought a fifth matching wheel/tire (285/70/17 on ICON Six-Speed) and put it into a 5-tire rotation.

Also, spent about 3 hours putting a Loncky leather cover on my steering wheel. Painful, but turned out great. Hated the thin, slippery feeling of the OEM steering wheel.

View attachment 2428700
You had to sew that thing on? Looks OEM.

What’s that cost if you don’t mind me asking?
 
You had to sew that thing on? Looks OEM.

What’s that cost if you don’t mind me asking?

About $60 I think from Amazon. Just google Loncky 200 Series Land Cruiser Leather Steering Cover. They have a youtube video out on install too. Comes with great instructions that I had to refer to (plus the video) a few times during install.
 
Temporarily applied some 3M Paint protection film to the freshly painted hood to protect it on the trip. Will order some custom cut film when I have more time.

hood.jpg


Also mounted the Rototrax to the roof rack. Used some Yakima 23H mighty Mounts and some SXMA fuel Pack mounts I found on Amazon. (budget build) Haven't tested it to see how much noise there is. More of a PITA to use than the Rotopax mounts but significantly less expensive.

rototrax-1.jpg
rototrax-2.jpg
 
Day 3 in Moab...Arches Nat Park...not many offroad trails but ran Willow Springs road, Tower Arch and Willow to Hwy 191. Rain made rocks slick but LC never missed a beat.

EYBFJ2Ny-47827056.jpg


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Temporarily applied some 3M Paint protection film to the freshly painted hood to protect it on the trip. Will order some custom cut film when I have more time.

View attachment 2430306

Also mounted the Rototrax to the roof rack. Used some Yakima 23H mighty Mounts and some SXMA fuel Pack mounts I found on Amazon. (budget build) Haven't tested it to see how much noise there is. More of a PITA to use than the Rotopax mounts but significantly less expensive.

View attachment 2430307View attachment 2430308

Can you describe the use of these maxtrax locks? What’s the PiTA part?
How does the lock security seem, etc?
 
Temporarily applied some 3M Paint protection film to the freshly painted hood to protect it on the trip. Will order some custom cut film when I have more time.

View attachment 2430306

Also mounted the Rototrax to the roof rack. Used some Yakima 23H mighty Mounts and some SXMA fuel Pack mounts I found on Amazon. (budget build) Haven't tested it to see how much noise there is. More of a PITA to use than the Rotopax mounts but significantly less expensive.

View attachment 2430307View attachment 2430308
I'm not an expert, but I've heard that its not recommended to put anything on fresh paint for at least 2-3 months. Its because the fresh paint needs to breath off and fully cure.
 
Can you describe the use of these maxtrax locks? What’s the PiTA part?
How does the lock security seem, etc?

I used the Yakima Mount and ran a M8x1.25 bolt up through it. I used a 40mm coupling nut (which was way too long) Ended cutting about 17mm off of it. I used the top portion of the lock system along with the locking handle. I had to cut off about 20 - 30 mm of the bolt on the handle. (I don't know if they make a smaller lock system for a thinner tank. That would work better. They have several sizes)
I did this set up for the front and rear cross bar.

To lock it, you place the top cup
mount-1.jpg
into the opening of the Rototrax and line it up with the coupling nut. Then insert the locking handle and screw down. (that is the PITA part. You have to stand on the wheel to be able to look down into the top cup to line up the bolt hole and coupling nut) I am sure someone smarter than me could figure out a way to make it easier to line up.

The lock seems OK. It's pretty basic compared to the RotoPax lock. I think if someone really wanted them it could be defeated, but the good thing is that there are 2 they have to get through. For what little use they will probably get from me, it was worth the $80 plus savings. If I used them a lot, I would consider the RotoPax lock for ease of use.
 
I'm not an expert, but I've heard that its not recommended to put anything on fresh paint for at least 2-3 months. Its because the fresh paint needs to breath off and fully cure.

I asked the paint shop about that as I have heard the same thing. He recommended that I do it. He said their paint is guaranteed and they often send cars straight to the wrap shop. I guess we will see if there are any issues. Their repairs have a lifetime warranty.
 
I used the Yakima Mount and ran a M8x1.25 bolt up through it. I used a 40mm coupling nut (which was way too long) Ended cutting about 17mm off of it. I used the top portion of the lock system along with the locking handle. I had to cut off about 20 - 30 mm of the bolt on the handle. (I don't know if they make a smaller lock system for a thinner tank. That would work better. They have several sizes)
I did this set up for the front and rear cross bar.

To lock it, you place the top cup View attachment 2430572 into the opening of the Rototrax and line it up with the coupling nut. Then insert the locking handle and screw down. (that is the PITA part. You have to stand on the wheel to be able to look down into the top cup to line up the bolt hole and coupling nut) I am sure someone smarter than me could figure out a way to make it easier to line up.

The lock seems OK. It's pretty basic compared to the RotoPax lock. I think if someone really wanted them it could be defeated, but the good thing is that there are 2 they have to get through. For what little use they will probably get from me, it was worth the $80 plus savings. If I used them a lot, I would consider the RotoPax lock for ease of use.

Thanks for details. Definitely see why the PiTA description fit. Seems like it works...

Will be interesting to see that screw and up-facing lock slots do with mud/crud, etc.
 
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I asked the paint shop about that as I have heard the same thing. He recommended that I do it. He said their paint is guaranteed and they often send cars straight to the wrap shop. I guess we will see if there are any issues. Their repairs have a lifetime warranty.

How was it applying the film? I am thinking of getting a fender and 1/3 hood kit to DIY. Instructions for XPEL look rather simple since you don’t even need a heat gun.
 
Thanks for details. Definitely see why the PiTA description fit. Seems like it works...
Will be interesting to see that screw and up-facing lock slots do with mud/crud, etc.

Yeah, the lock slots are a concern. Will see how that goes.

How was it applying the film? I am thinking of getting a fender and 1/3 hood kit to DIY. Instructions for XPEL look rather simple since you don’t even need a heat gun.

It's not too bad. A cut to fit kit is much easier to apply than what I did with a 12"x72" sheet. Especially if it isn't a wrap around kit. The hardest part is making sure you get all of the fluid out from underneath. I am used to applying wrap which has air release channels. PPF has none. So there are a couple of water bubbles in there. An insulin needle works well for popping them.

You need to make sure you really wash your hands then clean them with Isopropyl alcohol to remove all of the oils or you will leave prints. Keep the surface wet, and both sides of the PPF wet. You will likely need a rubber squeegee (yellow) and a hard card squeegee (white) for easier installation. I skipped the soapy solution and just used iso/distilled water solution. You just have to be ready to commit if you go that route.
 

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