What have you done to your 200 Series this week?

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echocall said:
Your dealer will use 5W-30? Sounds like a chill place
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No problem with 5W30 at the Toyota dealership. With my LX600 I have gotten a bit of push back a time or two about 5w30 but as soon as I mention the TTV6 problems, they don't say another word.
 
Sunroof question. I have never opened the sunroof on my 18LC. Is that something I should do every so often?
 
turbo8 said:
Hopefully that's all I have to do on the rear. I had to push the front wheel wells up an inch. View attachment 4141177
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All this metal chopping gets me excited. Great to see you break more ground.

I just got another welder as I attempted to modify your rear bumper skid last week. Only to figure out before I went too far that my old TIG now only putting out 116A has no chance of welding that thick of aluminum.

nwfl4runner said:
the only thing I had to do before the body lift was drop the rear bump stops around an inch because the tire smacked the wheel well before full bump. Crappy shot but here it is with the bump stop removed. Up front it was a mild BMC and beating the pinch weld flat up to the square joint, and then chopping the front fender support brace and yanking the air pumps. But that was all on tundra arms to get it lock to lock at bump

View attachment 4141198
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I'm tempted to tweak some more. What are your thoughts to AHC suspension integration with the front Tundra arms? I think you said there was some differences (motion ratio?) that aren't ideal?
 
TeCKis300 said:
I'm tempted to tweak some more. What are your thoughts to AHC suspension integration with the front Tundra arms? I think you said there was some differences (motion ratio?) that aren't ideal?
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Definitely a bit of an impact with the shock angle (and a fixed top hat) that I would prefer to get away from as I feel it gets a wee bit bouncy at times. If I could clear the frame at full lock I’d seriously consider going back
 
TeCKis300 said:
All this metal chopping gets me excited. Great to see you break more ground.

I just got another welder as I attempted to modify your rear bumper skid last week. Only to figure out before I went too far that my old TIG now only putting out 116A has no chance of welding that thick of aluminum.



I'm tempted to tweak some more. What are your thoughts to AHC suspension integration with the front Tundra arms? I think you said there was some differences (motion ratio?) that aren't ideal?
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What are you trying to do to the bumper?
 
nwfl4runner said:
Definitely a bit of an impact with the shock angle (and a fixed top hat) that I would prefer to get away from as I feel it gets a wee bit bouncy at times. If I could clear the frame at full lock I’d seriously consider going back
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Gotcha. It's exactly the steering that has me thinking. 37s work full lock with minor rub given how I cut the sway bars. But always dreaming bigger wondering if I can get 38x13.5s in there. I'm to the point I don't mind cutting and modding the coilover bucket to get the right geometry for Tundra arms. IIRC, the Tundra LCA has the lower shock mount about 1" further outboard?

turbo8 said:
What are you trying to do to the bumper?
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Was going to cut on the red line and turn the corners up to the green line for just that bit more clearance. Rocks keep getting bigger LOL.

1779068899679.webp
 
TeCKis300 said:
Gotcha. It's exactly the steering that has me thinking. 37s work full lock with minor rub given how I cut the sway bars. But always dreaming bigger wondering if I can get 38x13.5s in there. I'm to the point I don't mind cutting and modding the coilover bucket to get the right geometry for Tundra arms. IIRC, the Tundra LCA has the lower shock mount about 1" further outboard?
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Tundra arms will make you want to ditch the front sway bar, that’s one benefit. I was wondering if a billet top spacer could be angled to avoid cutting the bucket (like one above and one below to pass angled bolts through) or if a tundra bucket itself had the correct angle. I’d imagine cutting the bucket and trying to get that angle right would be a pain, and think you could weld a new bucket on without having to yank the engine
 
TeCKis300 said:
Gotcha. It's exactly the steering that has me thinking. 37s work full lock with minor rub given how I cut the sway bars. But always dreaming bigger wondering if I can get 38x13.5s in there. I'm to the point I don't mind cutting and modding the coilover bucket to get the right geometry for Tundra arms. IIRC, the Tundra LCA has the lower shock mount about 1" further outboard?



Was going to cut on the red line and turn the corners up to the green line for just that bit more clearance. Rocks keep getting bigger LOL.

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Ah, that will be a lot of work to get right.
 
Sajan said:
Speaking of, where are all the sunroof drains…
4 of them...gonna pour some water down the drains and see where they drain from..

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Front corner drains are easy to find and obvious. The rears are basically impossible to get to.

Purpose-built sunroof drain cleaning tools are available online cheap. Just don’t use compressed air.
 
bloc said:
Front corner drains are easy to find and obvious. The rears are basically impossible to get to.

Purpose-built sunroof drain cleaning tools are available online cheap. Just don’t use compressed air.
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Ya I just dealt with this on the Porsche Macan.
Definitely don't use compressed air because you can blow off the tubes and then you will have a much bigger problem.

I used this

I have an aftermarket bumper so I guess that's why I can see one of the rear drains? Let me try to get a picture.
 
Sajan said:
Ya I just dealt with this on the Porsche Macan.
Definitely don't use compressed air because you can blow off the tubes and then you will have a much bigger problem.

I used this

I have an aftermarket bumper so I guess that's why I can see one of the rear drains? Let me try to get a picture.
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Rear drain exit is behind the rear wheels and obscured by the bumper wing whether stock or aftermarket. When I said impossible to get to I was referring to the top drain inlet. Fortunately it is easier to get to the fronts where we seem to have more problems.. probably because pollen and dirt can fall right on top of those.

Either way a fresh sunroof panel gasket helps.
 
bloc said:
Rear drain exit is behind the rear wheels and obscured by the bumper wing whether stock or aftermarket. When I said impossible to get to I was referring to the top drain inlet. Fortunately it is easier to get to the fronts where we seem to have more problems.. probably because pollen and dirt can fall right on top of those.

Either way a fresh sunroof panel gasket helps.
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Oh then this drain must be something else?
The sponge has been wet for a few days. Maybe from me spraying water in that area.

IMG_7481.webp
 
nwfl4runner said:
Tundra arms will make you want to ditch the front sway bar, that’s one benefit. I was wondering if a billet top spacer could be angled to avoid cutting the bucket (like one above and one below to pass angled bolts through) or if a tundra bucket itself had the correct angle. I’d imagine cutting the bucket and trying to get that angle right would be a pain, and think you could weld a new bucket on without having to yank the engine
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I hear you on the angle of the top spacer. Makes me also think the added shock inclination angle is reducing the effective spring rate. Probably something like 5-10% underspung and underdamped?
 
Reason I never order a car with a sunroof. Alas the LC200 has one (will never or hardly ever be used). Obvious why in the winter and I don't need to attract the state bird in the summer. Given cost and since I bought the car with 68k miles I might just get the "tool". Thanks

As to the Macan I just replaced the rear air suspension bag that cracked by our past -56F winter. Relatively straight forward other than getting the nitrogen, tank, hoses, regulator, connectors... I buy Porsche because I enjoy the pain :bang:

siberian
 
Sajan said:
Oh then this drain must be something else?
The sponge has been wet for a few days. Maybe from me spraying water in that area.

View attachment 4142528
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That is the condensate drain for your rear AC unit. If you turn off the rear AC it'll dry up.

The rear sunroof drains are approx here:

IMG_8585.webp
 
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