Ahh ok.
Down south we got some quality shops. A full front PPF (bumper, fenders, hood, mirrors) is like1500-2000 for XPEL.
What have you done to your 200 Series this week?
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Down south we got some quality shops. A full front PPF (bumper, fenders, hood, mirrors) is like1500-2000 for XPEL.
You put it on your P?
siberian
siberian
halfway through the front brakes. got most of the rust of the the hubs using a 3M disc pad.
the 1" spacers were on there for about 60K miles and not sure what previous owner was doing..but there was quite a bit of rust on there.
I am going back to OEM brake setup. This big brake kit is so unnecessary and tedious.
the 1" spacers were on there for about 60K miles and not sure what previous owner was doing..but there was quite a bit of rust on there.
I am going back to OEM brake setup. This big brake kit is so unnecessary and tedious.
Valley plate coolant leak fix, will be using j2hundy Valley Guard Seal.
New oem alternator.
New oem radiator, lower & upper hoses.
New thermostat and housing.
New oem fan bracket.
New oem fan clutch.
New oem water pump.
New oem pulleys.
New oem all coolant and vacuum hoses.
New oem heater tee and hoses.
New oem spark plugs.
New oem ignition coil plugs.
New oem valve cover and spark plug tube gaskets.
New oem starter.
New oem power steering pump and full ps fluid exchange.
AT fluid exchange.
New oem intake air filter.
Fun times.
Got belts?
How many miles are on your engine? Are all components original? Did you have any problems aside from the heat exchanger leak?
PhuckItImDone
SILVER Star
Changed oil, filter, air filter, wiper blade inserts, 5 tire rotation. Little wiping down the interior and whatnot before packing it up for Moab.
DesmoPilot
SILVER Star
Swapped the rear springs from Dobinsons 547s to 549s. Also installed a new set of bags as my old set was leaking. Truck feels more balanced and composed with the higher rear spring rate.
On a scale of 1 to 5 wrenches, how hard is doing routine fluid maintenance: oil, transmission, differentials, coolant? Luckily, NYS requires certain places (e.g., AutoZone) to accept used fluids, so disposal is not an issue.
Lift necessary or can be done from the ground if you're not claustrophobic? Special / recommended tools beyond standard ratchets?
Lift necessary or can be done from the ground if you're not claustrophobic? Special / recommended tools beyond standard ratchets?
Yes drive belts too. Thinking of doing the cam cradle as well and the timing chain and tensioners.
In the 180k range and yes all untouched since 09, noticed constant slow depletion of coolant w/o traces of it anywhere - typical symptom of the UR platform.
Some progress photos, initial look after intake plenum was removed and initial photo after some cleaning on the injectors area and when the valley cover was removed.
LvCruiserNewb
SILVER Star
Got my truck back from the dealer finally after they fu$%ed up the radiator replacement job. See the radiator thread for gory details. Before I dropped it off for that I did the transmission fluid swap to include pan drop and filter screen change. Power steering flush and oil change.
After getting back from botched radiator job which resulted in them having to do compression test, leak down test and coolant system pressure test which all were good thankfully when I start it after sitting for a while 2 of 3 times it has made a loud buzz/rattle and vibrated the brake pedal on engine start. Google searches seem to point to brake booster pump or accumulator. Never made this noise before. Its definitely not the normal brake booster buzz. Way more violent than that. I cant see how anything with the brakes is related to a botched radiator, water pump, pulleys amd belt job as its electric booster but this is new and never happened before. Maybe low battery voltage affecting brake pump? Any thoughts?
After getting back from botched radiator job which resulted in them having to do compression test, leak down test and coolant system pressure test which all were good thankfully when I start it after sitting for a while 2 of 3 times it has made a loud buzz/rattle and vibrated the brake pedal on engine start. Google searches seem to point to brake booster pump or accumulator. Never made this noise before. Its definitely not the normal brake booster buzz. Way more violent than that. I cant see how anything with the brakes is related to a botched radiator, water pump, pulleys amd belt job as its electric booster but this is new and never happened before. Maybe low battery voltage affecting brake pump? Any thoughts?
LvCruiserNewb
SILVER Star
I am officially a moron. Its my ARB dual compressor under the hood comimg on. Dealer apparently turned it on or bumped the switch to on under the hood while playing with the engine. Pressure in the manifold bleeds down over night and pressure switch was kicking it on when ignition power was on.
Great end-result!
Big thanks to Toyota for making the tail lights non-replaceable. $260 to fix a malfunctioning light.
I forget I need to do this as well.. on my passenger side
Hawk LTS Pads F/R. Big improvement over stock and definitely got my moneys worth from the front pads. They were almost totally smoked.
To make certain I take full advantage of the rising gas prices, I added Bora 1.25" spacers and Falken R/T 285/70R18's. Yep, they scrub. Had to pin my fender liners back a bit. Running with the Westcott lift.
Did the E&E front coil spacer and 10mm rear coil packers to make the 33's a bit more proportional. Overextended one of my CV's on the installation and tore a boot, so that's now on order.
