What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (23 Viewers)

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Sorry I have nothing to help that @ERMB just the OCD side in me coming out
 
Pulled all the old wood grain off a few weeks ago, but wasn't thrilled with the plastic. I liked the black but wanted to do something different. Went with a black cherry replacement kit. Gives it a nice updated look to the tired interior.

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When i first started looking for a cruiser i checked out an LX with an Onyx[?] package. It this same black trim but with grey interior. Beautiful! Wanted way too much tho. Couldn't find another.
 
I painted my trim and bumpers. Had an auto paint store color match, still not perfect but my trim was so beat up it looks 100x better.

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When i first started looking for a cruiser i checked out an LX with an Onyx[?] package. It this same black trim but with grey interior. Beautiful! Wanted way too much tho. Couldn't find another.
I had seen the black/grey burl wood, with grey interior but just stumbled across this design when I was searching for a replacement. I wasn't sure at first how it would look with the tans and browns but it came out nicer than I thought. I'll probably rewrap my steering wheel with black leather to try and compliment it.
 
For someone like me who is planning to keep his LC mostly stock (don't hate me! I love the stock look, OK I might replace the running boards), can the AHC system be added?

Crap I should have done a forum search, I know.

Update: not much luck with forum search. It seems most people are removing the AHC system, not adding it. What does everyone do with them once removed? Can a LC be retro-fitted with AHC? Mine is a 2003. Perhaps I can work something out with someone removing theirs?

It is possible to retro fit an AHC system! I did this on my 2001 Cruiser. It is actually fairly easy, all the wires and connectors are already there. Even the cluster panel have the lights built in, which will light up as soon as you connect the AHC ECU.

These are the parts you need:
For the mechanical parts will need 4 shock absorbers, 4 globes and hoses to the absorbers, the pump, the valve body and all the oil lines.
The electrical parts are 3 height sensors with brackets and wires from the sensor to the engine bay connectors, the AHC ECU, the AHC control panel and the wire harness from the rear of the chassis. The wire harness is mounted on top of the chassis (you can get there without removing the cabin).

You can check if your Land Cruiser is AHC ready by looking for the connectors of the pump, there are 3 of them at the right hand side of the engine bay near the firewall. Also there should be two big white connectors above the gas pedal, they are mostly taped to the wire harness. These are for the AHC ECU. When your Land Cruiser has these connectors you can probably retro fit the AHC system.

In my case it had all of these on my 2001, only the AHC was just not fitted from factory. I hope this helps, and if you need more information you can always contact me.
 
To say my alignment was out of spec would be an understatement of epic proportions! Headed to Firestone and got a lifetime 4-wheel alignment for $160!!! The tech that worked on my truck was a cruiser enthusiast. He complimented the ToughDog suspension and was very impressed with the NitroGear UCAs.....Once the alignment was done, took the rig out on a nice drive....

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I see your LX often in my neck of the woods, it looks fantastic and I will pay more attention to the suspension next time!
 
Thank you! This is super helpful! My truck is at the dealership now, but I will check as soon as I get it back.

Anyone up in the Northeast want to help me retro-fit the AHC to my LC?

Theoretically, if my truck is AHC-ready, would the parts @bryce0011 has listed in the classified be all I need?

It is possible to retro fit an AHC system! I did this on my 2001 Cruiser. It is actually fairly easy, all the wires and connectors are already there. Even the cluster panel have the lights built in, which will light up as soon as you connect the AHC ECU.

These are the parts you need:
For the mechanical parts will need 4 shock absorbers, 4 globes and hoses to the absorbers, the pump, the valve body and all the oil lines.
The electrical parts are 3 height sensors with brackets and wires from the sensor to the engine bay connectors, the AHC ECU, the AHC control panel and the wire harness from the rear of the chassis. The wire harness is mounted on top of the chassis (you can get there without removing the cabin).

You can check if your Land Cruiser is AHC ready by looking for the connectors of the pump, there are 3 of them at the right hand side of the engine bay near the firewall. Also there should be two big white connectors above the gas pedal, they are mostly taped to the wire harness. These are for the AHC ECU. When your Land Cruiser has these connectors you can probably retro fit the AHC system.

In my case it had all of these on my 2001, only the AHC was just not fitted from factory. I hope this helps, and if you need more information you can always contact me.
 
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I installed a NEW ENGINE and a NEW STEREO this weekend!

You might say, I installed an engine stereo....

Surprisingly simple too, all you have to do is remove this:
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and install this:
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then remove this:
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and install this:
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Prior to firing the new engine up I strongly recommend you do some facial exercises to loosen the muscles so you don't strain anything when your smile splits your head in two.

And there you go, bingo-bango you're driving a truck with an all-new motor and listening to all new rockin' tunes!

<source: Doug Thorley catback in case anyone's wondering. Headers in the garage waiting on time...>
 
No, nothing like that.

I told them I had a weird vibration under acceleration with weight in the truck. Most of the threads I’ve read on here point to the drive shaft u-joints. I wanted to get their opinion.

This is the repair estimate they gave me:
  1. PA BOTH FRONT U JOINTS, $696.46
  2. PA ALL EBRAKE PIVOT PARTS REAR PADS SHIMS AND ROTORS AND 2 CALIPERS, $1895.60
  3. REAR SWAY BAR LINKS AND ALL HDW AND BUSHING, $222.62
  4. NO QUOTE, $24
  5. PA EXHAUST FROM CENTER MUFFLER BACK ALL GASKETS AND HDW AND VIBRATION DAMPENER, $971.78
  6. PA REAR E BRAKE SHOES AND ALL SPRINGS AND HWD, $358.26
  7. PA FRONT PADS ROTORS AND ALL HDW AND CALIPERS, $1604
  8. NO QUOTE FRAME CONDITION, $.10
  9. PA TIMING BELT AND WATER PUMP, $1165.08 (note: these were changed at 140k, truck has 197k now).
  10. PA FRONT SPLASH GUARD, $401.97
  11. PA REAR DIFF VENT, $194.43
  12. PA EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND HEAT SHIELDS AND ALL GASKETS AND HDW ALL STUDS AND NUTS, $3090.50
  13. 30K8 SERCIVE, $175.02
  14. AC REFRESHER SERVICE, $149.95
SUBTOTAL: $10,949.77
SHOP CHARGES: $19.95
TAX: $344.52
TOTAL: $11,314.24

The u joints are actually on there... along with a lot of other unnecessary stuff. Timing belt and pump were done at 140k. Brakes were done last year and working fine. E-brake is seized, but I have a new bell housing I plan to install.

Damn lol

New motor and trans?
 
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More like 3 weeks, but timing belt, water pump, fan bracket, alternator, 10" subwoofer box, ss1 with sleeper unit Buy the SS1, ARB awning, Kali antenna mount. Out of time and money for now.

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Installed/built a fridge platform in the rear passenger side seat position. Was able to add some additional storage underneath, while keeping the fridge pretty low. Can't open lid all the way and the passenger seat can't go all the way back. I may shorten the platform and just find another home for the box. Also ran the ARB fridge wiring kit to the main battery. Eventually it will get moved over to aux.
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Addressed a few other items since Sunday. Flushed power steering fluid, which seems to have made an immediate impact on ease of turning the wheel. Will probably do again in the fall to see how the fluid looks. Was gonna change rear dif fluid, but once I finally got the fill hole open and checked the fluid it looked perfect, so I left it.

Tonight a small job took longer than I thought it would. I had some water getting in on the driver side front roof rack holes. Maybe we didn't put enough silicone on one bolt, so I figured I would just pull those, clean them up and put some fresh silicone on... but one bolt wouldn't go back in. I think the capture nut must have gotten cross threaded, so I went and bought the $35 harbor freight tap set... but then to actually turn the tap through i had to unbolt the entire rack and prop it up on some wood. From there it was smooth, tapped M8 1.5 and bolt went in easy. Much nicer to bolt the rack all back together on a warm spring evening than a 10 F december morning.
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I also thought my oil pressure seemed to be running a bit high. dropped a little oil (thanks fumoto) and its closer to normal. Maybe a bad filter? In a possibly related issue there seemed to be a slight oil leak. Nothing on the ground but some grime and creep in an area I don't think it was before. Gonna clean and monitor
 

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