What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (51 Viewers)

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abuck99 said:
Hey same thing-pre locker install, I got the on board air installed, wires plummed, switches mounted and connected. Surprisingly every thing worked!

The ARB harness makes it pretty dang easy, and the instructions are straight forward. Of course I got kind of anal with the wiring install and sleeved all the wires Techflex wire loom over all the wires, used split loom on the air line. Looks "professional grade" now- for what thats worth :)

ARB CKMA12 compressor chosen to run the rear locker and supply standby air for airing up tires if my CO2 tank runs dry. If/when I add a front locker still one port availble for that line.
I
View attachment 1397249

View attachment 1397250

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Clean install!
 
devildogcruiser25 said:
I don't have sliders yet, and it was really wet and slippery up there. We took it kind of "easy" but were able to do what we wanted. With sliders and a locker I think I could do the majority of the trails there.
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A friend had his tundra there a few weeks ago. He was wheeling with a couple guys in an 80 and a 100. The hundy blew his front diff and he said it was the second time it has happened.
My friend didn't know what year model it was.
 
enfield said:
A friend had his tundra there a few weeks ago. He was wheeling with a couple guys in an 80 and a 100. The hundy blew his front diff and he said it was the second time it has happened.
My friend didn't know what year model it was.
Click to expand...
In most cases driver input is the key factor here. Managing wheel spin, left foot braking, slow and steady application of throttle. Not guaranteed to save a diff from the unforeseen, but a helpful strategy for mitigating damage.
 
Got an overlanding accessory. What can I say, I'm a watch guy ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

FullSizeRender 5.jpg
 
bushdoctor said:
Switch and Compressor installed pre TJM locker install. Next up, clean up wiring and install the locker switch...older slee dual battery tray up for sale. Will post sometime when I get the chance. Also, got some OME mediums for sale. Went up to the heavies post dissent rear bumper install.

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Let me know when you are ready to sell your old slee battery tray, I tried pm'ing you, but your inbox is full
 
Got my lights and winch wired up this week. The parking brake wouldn't budge, found out the cable was seized so got a new one coming in tomorrow. Thanks to Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters for the help figuring this one out. Also got my ARB compressor all hooked up. I've got to change out my UCA soon and hoping to put an air locker in the front to avoid any front diff issues in my 98.



 
10ga said:
Got my lights and winch wired up this week. The parking brake wouldn't budge, found out the cable was seized so got a new one coming in tomorrow. Thanks to Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters for the help figuring this one out. Also got my ARB compressor all hooked up. I've got to change out my UCA soon and hoping to put an air locker in the front to avoid any front diff issues in my 98.



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how much was the new parking brake cable?
 
tacoduck said:
how much was the new parking brake cable?
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There are a couple cables to consider. I just rebuilt mine last weekend. I was able to reuse the cable from the handle to the rear axle. All the parts on the rear axle had to be replaced. Every bolt broke while taking things apart too so if you're in rusty area then be ready to drill out broken bolts.

Here are the parts I needed:

46420-60011 - $44 - cable that runs along the rear axle to each wheel
90109-08244 - $1.23 - bolt that holds the cables together and is a specialized bolt
90468-14033 - $.99 codder pins X2 used to attach the cable to each bell crank
90468-16030 - $1.52 - clip that holds the cable from the cabin to the axle cable
90385-12012 - $1.20 x2 - plastic bushing that wraps around the bolt mentioned above. both parts are the same but one goes on top and another on bottom
 
tacoduck said:
how much was the new parking brake cable?
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The one I got was the one that runs fron the handle back to the rear diff, it was $70.
 
n55luvr said:
There are a couple cables to consider. I just rebuilt mine last weekend. I was able to reuse the cable from the handle to the rear axle. All the parts on the rear axle had to be replaced. Every bolt broke while taking things apart too so if you're in rusty area then be ready to drill out broken bolts.

Here are the parts I needed:

46420-60011 - $44 - cable that runs along the rear axle to each wheel
90109-08244 - $1.23 - bolt that holds the cables together and is a specialized bolt
90468-14033 - $.99 codder pins X2 used to attach the cable to each bell crank
90468-16030 - $1.52 - clip that holds the cable from the cabin to the axle cable
90385-12012 - $1.20 x2 - plastic bushing that wraps around the bolt mentioned above. both parts are the same but one goes on top and another on bottom
Click to expand...

sounds like a huge pain in the ass...
 
Peeled the plasti-dip off my wheels tonight, reapplying now. Was going to powder coat but the plasti-dip lasted two years and still looked goos. I'll end up changing the rims out again at some point haha

New 305/65 r18 bfg ko2's coming soon

 
Got a few more things done today. All the switches are mounted, shovel mount on the ladder, and limb risers are on. Yes I know I can't open my hood the way they are but a couple twist on the turnbuckles and I'm in. I looked at sliding everything over but looked off. Check out the print on the China made snorkel, it says "LAND CRUISFR" What do you expect for less than $100?











 
10ga said:
Got a few more things done today. All the switches are mounted, shovel mount on the ladder, and limb risers are on. Yes I know I can't open my hood the way they are but a couple twist on the turnbuckles and I'm in. I looked at sliding everything over but looked off. Check out the print on the China made snorkel, it says "LAND CRUISFR" What do you expect for less than $100?











Click to expand...


I'd recommend turning your limb riser hook down. It will grab things!

J
 
After much consideration and back and forth: Finalized a small addition to the grill today.
IMG_1851.JPG
 
Had an issue a couple of weeks ago where my instrument lights didn't come on when I started the truck. I checked the stalk and dimmer, but no change. Started on my way and a few miles up the road, they came on... Fast forward to Tuesday morning and it happened again. But this time, they didn't come on. Checked the manual and found the fuse that controls the instrument lights also control the exterior tail lights, running lights and license plate lights. Checked those and they were not working either. So, grabbed a 15A fuse and dove in under the dash and replaced it. The old one wasn't burnt into... But I replaced it with a new one and all is well. On the old fuse, the metal prongs were loose and I could wiggle them around.

I also replaced my headlight bulbs with HIR1-9011 and HIR2-9012. Considerably more light that the old 9005 & 9006 bulbs. I've got an extra set of headlight housing to eventually retrofit with projectors, but for now this will do.
 
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