Interesting. The dealership quoted me $800 to replace the boots. How many bananas is the swap?
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (72 Viewers)
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Dealer price includes 5 hours of tech labor and the boot kit. There are some really detailed write-ups here on how to do it (check the FAQ sticky). I'd say it's a 1-2 banana job, just take your time.
LOL.... Yeah, awesome-terrible!
My wife kept bringing me the broken key, and I kept glueing it back together. At first, I could do it with superglue but over time, the cracks got more rediculous and the repairs got more desperate... No way I was going to spend $200+ for a replacement key at the dealer!
Then I stumbled across this site, and found a thread about replacement housings on eBay. They should be here next week, and I can do another "hardcore" mod to my LC!
-G
If you go to ACE they can program and cut you a brand new nice key for about $60. No buttons but works everywhere just fine! that's what I did since I got the truck with only one key and kept thinking of the day the key getting locked inside! Also got a simple door only key cut and hid it in a magnet box stuck to the frame.
One day my wife did it, keys locked inside and I get the call to explain how to get the one underneath and she wasn't in the mood to crawl on the dirty parking lot where she was and right then a good friend of us showed up dressed all nice and she made him lay down and find it!
That's what friends are for correct?Changed to 285/75/16 Toyo Open Country AT2. Pretty aggressive looking tire. It's a bit stiffer on-road, and a bit noisier than Michelin M/S (very soft & quiet), but not bad for the added performance. The new spare fit (barely) with a tow-hitch.
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Running the same tire on my 100 in a 295/70/18... It's been a solid tire.
Also have the same tires on my work pickup. You'd be hard pressed to find a tire as sof and quite as the Michelin m/s.
Also have the same tires on my work pickup. You'd be hard pressed to find a tire as sof and quite as the Michelin m/s.
Removed all of the IFS and found a replacement for it. Hopefully it will be here next week.
I am expecting a build thread!
Replace coil number 8, changed o2 censor #2 the one after the catalytic converter. Now i have a code for the vapor canister, will change gas cap first to see if that will get rid of the code. Road trip to San Antonio Texas.
I agree on the Michelin. I started looking at the Michelin A/T. But wanted a tire that could handle some off-road, not worry me, good value, and not drive me crazy with noise. I think these are going to fit the bill. It's the wife's DD, I'm going to see if I can sneak off with the running boards next.
bwell
SILVER Star
I'm sure I will catch some flaq about the welds, but consumables wear out and I ran out of gas at the same time. So I cut, and ground off the original outside welds and did some "stitching" if you will.
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Power washed the cruiser after spending the weekend romping through some mud pools up in Big Bear, on the trail up to Holcomb Valley to climb.
Changed the oil for the first time since I bought it, 3k miles later. Used Mobil 1 Synthetic.
If you go to ACE they can program and cut you a brand new nice key for about $60. No buttons but works everywhere just fine! that's what I did since I got the truck with only one key and kept thinking of the day the key getting locked inside! Also got a simple door only key cut and hid it in a magnet box stuck to the frame.
One day my wife did it, keys locked inside and I get the call to explain how to get the one underneath and she wasn't in the mood to crawl on the dirty parking lot where she was and right then a good friend of us showed up dressed all nice and she made him lay down and find it!
Here's the best $14 I've spent in a long time!!!!
Two blank keys from eBay ($9.95 with free shipping) and $2.00 (each) to cut them at my local hardware store....
EDIT: Link to eBay Key Blanks that I used:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291005562450?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
The swap was super easy, and the cases fit perfectly. There was some discussion about the LED indicator being slightly too large for the replacement cases, but I did not find that to be true. The only adjustment I made for fitment was to gently remove the excess flashing from the outside edges of the transponder/button insert.... VERY minor sanding with 220G sandpaper, and they dropped right in with a satisfying "Click". I swapped the small disc batteries too (CR1616) just for good measure.
Of course, my luck didn't hold out long....
On the way to work this morning (with an outside temp of -11F) I got one of these on the dash....
....hooked up my trusty WiFi OBD Reader and pulled the codes:
"P0135"
Looks like I'll be shopping for a couple new Denso O2 sensors and a crowfoot socket in the near future!!
-G
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rear axle seals. o man. any tips for ones who done it?
+1 for me - that is next on my list of to do's for refurbing my LC and would appreciate extra help. Surprised there isn't a write up in the FAQ section - will have to remember to take pics and document when I dive in to the job.
Installed OME 1.5" lift kit.
Started sound deadening.
i let you know my axle seal is costing me a bit more then i expected. took the hub out to machine shop to get sleeve pressed out and when installing bearing, the bearing is loose so we are sourcing a used left rear axle.
Bought a set of Rock Warrior wheels and tires. Now to decide on spacers or having the rims machined.
Fat matted the doors, tailgate and installed LEDs in the cluster. Fat matting the floors and cargo area tomorrow if I have the energy. I'm beat.
