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What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
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Starting to prep for the new drawer build, and decided it was finally time to trash 12 years of bacon grease, dab stains, and muddy dog prints 
. 1/2" Baltic Birch, with Varathane Gunstock, which is pretty damn close to the LX woodgrain- just a hair lighter. I'll throw the first coat of poly on it later today, then sand with 400 grit tomorrow and add a second coat of poly, then wet sand it with 1000 grit on Friday.
. 1/2" Baltic Birch, with Varathane Gunstock, which is pretty damn close to the LX woodgrain- just a hair lighter. I'll throw the first coat of poly on it later today, then sand with 400 grit tomorrow and add a second coat of poly, then wet sand it with 1000 grit on Friday.Before the weekend I was able to put new front hubs/bearings and a steering rack bellow in. Now I'm laid up sick 
Finally buckled down and bought myself a vacuum pump and some HVAC gauges, and got the 100 AC going again. System had leaked down from a really tiny pinhole where the high pressure line over the radiator, right where the rubber hose transitions to the hard pipe.
Mainly, easy work, but I had been going "ehhhhh do I WANT to spend $200 on tools for this or just pay the shop," finally decided it was just getting toward "mean" instead of "character building" for the kids when they drive it around. I work from the house, so it could stay like that for me a long, long time. Kids are less forgiving. Blowing cold air, not leaking, we're set. Feels good.
Mainly, easy work, but I had been going "ehhhhh do I WANT to spend $200 on tools for this or just pay the shop," finally decided it was just getting toward "mean" instead of "character building" for the kids when they drive it around. I work from the house, so it could stay like that for me a long, long time. Kids are less forgiving. Blowing cold air, not leaking, we're set. Feels good.
Congrats on fixing the AC, bet it feels great!
In the past, I have just borrowed the vacuum pump and HVAC manifold from Oreilly's so didn't have to spend my own money on it.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
How did you identify that as the leak location? I am starting down some investigation on my AC.
You can get UV dye either as a standalone item or as part of a recharge bottle of R-134. Then you shine along with a blacklight (Autozone, $10 or so) until you see a green glowing area.
There are common places where 100s are pretty well known to leak refrigerant, eventually, I found another one I guess, maybe. In my case, the standoffs that hold the hard line/ crossover line over the radiator were in TOUGH shape. Just 25 years of vibration, heat, etc., and one of the rubber isolators was busted completely and the other almost there. So that had led to a vibration/ stress failure at that crimp connection. It wasn't where I was looking first, but it makes total sense now.
Overall? Shoot some dye in it, go outside on a dark night and look for the green.
You also absolutely don't have to buy your own gauges and vacuum pump, but I felt like with my usual process of "hey lets adopt this real-old car" I'd use em again. Lots of local buddies, family, etc. too. Didn't hurt that I think the rental charge from Oreilly was like a $500 credit card hold and I just didn't wanna. That's just the way I decided to go.
NEXT trick: rebuilding the buttons and whatnot on the control board that are also at 285k miles and ~27 years old. :/
What did you do for the ECU throwing the transmission codes?
For the whale-tail folks... Test fitting the chaselight replacement for the 3rd brake light!
Nah, this one is Toyota. Just from a different truck.
Previously, we had a tough time just getting out of steep parking lots. 
Nothing, check engine light has been on since 2011 with many DTC codes so the swap just added to it, never affected operation.
When I bought the 100 series back in September 2024, the seller hadn't been truthful about a lot, and one of the cosmetic things I disliked was the big hole in the door card on the drivers side.
A friend was breaking an aussie import and the door card was in decent condition, so I bought that, and cleaned it up. I've not seen any clean door cards from a UK truck that's being broken for parts, so I'm glad I went this route.
I bought the replacement inner moulding strip seal that sits against the window and replaced that too on the new door card.
After putting it off for ages, I did it today and it was unbelievably easy, all things considered.
The eagle-eye'd amongst you may note the new card doesn't have the seat memory buttons, I never used it and have since tucked the wire/plug away safely behind the card and secured it out of the way. I did notice that the plastic 'shield' inside the door to keep moisture out was missing, so will need to revisit that at some point, I suspect it will be the same on other door cards too.
I actually really dig the clean look, so I'm unsure whether to fit the new 'locking diff' instructions sticker onto the panel like the old door card.
Excuse my wife's flip flops in the pics, they were the only shoes I had to hand as I had locked myself out the house
A friend was breaking an aussie import and the door card was in decent condition, so I bought that, and cleaned it up. I've not seen any clean door cards from a UK truck that's being broken for parts, so I'm glad I went this route.
I bought the replacement inner moulding strip seal that sits against the window and replaced that too on the new door card.
After putting it off for ages, I did it today and it was unbelievably easy, all things considered.
The eagle-eye'd amongst you may note the new card doesn't have the seat memory buttons, I never used it and have since tucked the wire/plug away safely behind the card and secured it out of the way. I did notice that the plastic 'shield' inside the door to keep moisture out was missing, so will need to revisit that at some point, I suspect it will be the same on other door cards too.
I actually really dig the clean look, so I'm unsure whether to fit the new 'locking diff' instructions sticker onto the panel like the old door card.
Excuse my wife's flip flops in the pics, they were the only shoes I had to hand as I had locked myself out the house
Replaced Fuel Pump $500 with New O Ring $28, Replaced Fuel Quantity Sending Unit $189, Replaced both Cabin Filters, and then took a break. BTW, all parts are Toyota OEM. Since I'm a combat vet with three wounds and a broken back in 5 places from a helicopter crash it was a painful job getting the two seats out in order to peel back the carpet. The grandkids have done a job on the carpet with spilled drinks and ice cream. I think I'll get a carpet cleaning company to drop by and steam clean the carpets while they are out of the vehicle.
Also had a great company in Little Rock to detail the outside of this wonderful 100 series.. It looks great. I also installed a GMRS antenna and a 2 meter antenna using Gamvitti (sp) mounts on the front fenders either side of the hood. Great SWR on both radios.
Also had a great company in Little Rock to detail the outside of this wonderful 100 series.. It looks great. I also installed a GMRS antenna and a 2 meter antenna using Gamvitti (sp) mounts on the front fenders either side of the hood. Great SWR on both radios.
Nice! I've gotta do the same thing with my floppy paint stained tailgate too!Starting to prep for the new drawer build, and decided it was finally time to trash 12 years of bacon grease, dab stains, and muddy dog prints
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Finally knocked a bunch of little upgrades off my list.
New steering wheel cover from Amazon/Loncky (it was a super tight fit - I wound up needing to trim some of the original leather off the spokes and use some heat the stretch the leather ... the end result being it's now a little loose in spots on the back side of the spokes, but the seams are all closed).
And finally got my Artisan Garage under-seat-bracket and rear D-pillar brackets installed. I painted everything with Glidden Max-Flex tan spray paint which matches the original interior pretty well. Still need to finalize what's going on them, but I've got the essentials.
And lastly, installed some nice tinted window visors from WELLvisors for that JDM look.
New steering wheel cover from Amazon/Loncky (it was a super tight fit - I wound up needing to trim some of the original leather off the spokes and use some heat the stretch the leather ... the end result being it's now a little loose in spots on the back side of the spokes, but the seams are all closed).
And finally got my Artisan Garage under-seat-bracket and rear D-pillar brackets installed. I painted everything with Glidden Max-Flex tan spray paint which matches the original interior pretty well. Still need to finalize what's going on them, but I've got the essentials.
And lastly, installed some nice tinted window visors from WELLvisors for that JDM look.
Those seat front panels are one of my favorite things I've designed - such a great location that's entirely out of the way!
Howdy dudes, I used to own a 200 and now I have a 100, here is what I did this past week. I had EKR Seat Covers in El Monte, CA scan my LX for covers and they finally arrived! (I wish I told them to forgo the rear entertainment cutouts but oh well, still beats my old worn out leather!)
