In case someone else comes around looking for this, the nut size for post stream O2 sensor is M8x1.25.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (23 Viewers)
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In case someone else comes around looking for this, the nut size for post stream O2 sensor is M8x1.25.
Installed my aux tank. Now to wire and plumb it. An hour here and there will get it done.
Had brake issues for about a year now. Kept getting ABS/TRAC/VSC lights and some brake-related codes. Investigated the front wheel bearings today and I think I found my issue... Had probably ~1/8" slop in the front left wheel bearing.
I tried pulling the flange so I could re-tighten the bearings to see if that would do it but I couldn't remove the flange. It had galled the splines of the CV axle so bad that I had to file them down for 20 minutes just to remove the flange.
After removing the hub I found the spindle to be quite scored... One of the lines is pretty deep. Do I HAVE to replace it, or is that just a "best practice"? Front knuckle prices are not very friendly...
One thing I can at least contribute is that these little harbor freight mini-vice grips are excellent for removing those cone washers. Hammer a flat head into the slit on the washer, give the stud a little tap, then use the vice grips to shimmy the washer off.
Anyways minus a few hundred $$ today but at least I found my problem (hopefully. I'm assuming that was the brake problem).
I tried pulling the flange so I could re-tighten the bearings to see if that would do it but I couldn't remove the flange. It had galled the splines of the CV axle so bad that I had to file them down for 20 minutes just to remove the flange.
After removing the hub I found the spindle to be quite scored... One of the lines is pretty deep. Do I HAVE to replace it, or is that just a "best practice"? Front knuckle prices are not very friendly...
One thing I can at least contribute is that these little harbor freight mini-vice grips are excellent for removing those cone washers. Hammer a flat head into the slit on the washer, give the stud a little tap, then use the vice grips to shimmy the washer off.
Anyways minus a few hundred $$ today but at least I found my problem (hopefully. I'm assuming that was the brake problem).
I feel like I probably know the answer, but what's the MY of your truck?
I'm trying to find out if anyone has done it on a late model, with emissions equipment in the rear. It's cold out and I don't want to buy a tank and crawl around in the cold figuring it out for myself
You can find used spindles for a reasonable price from junkyards. I paid $100 for the hub and spindle combo, delivered to my house a couple of years ago.
Mines a 2000.I feel like I probably know the answer, but what's the MY of your truck?
I'm trying to find out if anyone has done it on a late model, with emissions equipment in the rear. It's cold out and I don't want to buy a tank and crawl around in the cold figuring it out for myself
Replaced my drivers side door actuator, then took apart the door again because the window only went down half way. I needed to reposition the window track. I would change to a different mechanic if this one didn't just work for food.
I replaced it with an Aisin part rather than trying to replace the motor only. Reading about those that only replaced the motor it seemed that they frequently had to fix it again soon afterwards. But i may be too pessimistic.
I replaced it with an Aisin part rather than trying to replace the motor only. Reading about those that only replaced the motor it seemed that they frequently had to fix it again soon afterwards. But i may be too pessimistic.
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awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Did you go with a dealer part or something aftermarket? Any link or part number would be appreciated.
mdcoa
SILVER Star
@Beto Cruiser, I recently had same issue—after looking at used spindle prices, calculating Likely shipping+ new spindle bearings + new seal (both included with the new genuine spindle) costs, and figuring a used one might well be as bad as mine, I figured $560 for a new complete assembly, shipped from Partsouq, was the painful but smart move for me.
AISIN DLT081, for my 99 LC, driver's door. Bought from Rockauto. About $145 w tax and shipping.
Both of my front spindles looked like that when I bought my 100 6 years ago. I have not replaced the worn spindles, but I have found my front wheel bearing maintenance to be more intensive than others. I need to repack the bearings annually as they loosen up quickly. Setting the preload on the bearings is a challenge with worn spindles, so set it on the low end to avoid overloading the bearing riding on the less worn portion of the spindle. Good luck finding a good spindle, in my experience it seems like most folks parting out 100's don't want to let go of the knuckle since it makes the vehicle immobile
I'm feeling like I may just do the same thing. I tried one auto salvage today and the spindle was trashed on that one too.Both of my front spindles looked like that when I bought my 100 6 years ago. I have not replaced the worn spindles, but I have found my front wheel bearing maintenance to be more intensive than others. I need to repack the bearings annually as they loosen up quickly. Setting the preload on the bearings is a challenge with worn spindles, so set it on the low end to avoid overloading the bearing riding on the less worn portion of the spindle. Good luck finding a good spindle, in my experience it seems like most folks parting out 100's don't want to let go of the knuckle since it makes the vehicle immobile
eBay has them for $139.99 new unbranded. How bad could it be?
Intersted in this. Have any other details or a thread?
DIY 20 gallon auxiliary fuel tank
One of my favorite additions to my 80 is the extra fuel tank--I really enjoy not carrying fuel cans. :) I constantly missed having that functionality on my 100, even just for around-town driving. So, I duplicated the setup I did under my other truck. It's a fuel tank for an '87-'95 (ish) S-10...
forum.ih8mud.com
DIY 20 gallon auxiliary fuel tank
One of my favorite additions to my 80 is the extra fuel tank--I really enjoy not carrying fuel cans. :) I constantly missed having that functionality on my 100, even just for around-town driving. So, I duplicated the setup I did under my other truck. It's a fuel tank for an '87-'95 (ish) S-10...
Yup that’s it
Tackled the dreaded windshield rust over the Xmas and New Year break. Windshield already had a crack from last year and couple small water leaks. Upon removing the windshield it was discovered that like most of these it was not done properly which in most cases causes the rust to develop, no signs of the oem dam and clips used. Also lucky that it hadn’t spread outside this area. Wire wheeled the loose rust, used some carbide cutters to lightly remove heavier spots, several applications of naval jelly and saran wrap over a couple nights to break up the remainder, and again with the carbide tools. Had a couple pinholes and used my welder to fill those in. Luckily I was able to get down to bare metal before removing too much of the base metal (forgot to get a pic of this). Epoxy primed around the pinch weld and top coated the trim mounting surface.
@mdcoa Awesome, thanks for the info! Do you know what the main dimensions of the bracket are? I couldn't find any listed on their site. I am looking for a mount to relocate my winch solenoid box to. Thinking I can use the circuit breaker cutout/holes to mount a blue sea cutoff switch for the winch and the solenoid box to the main section of the bracket. Just need to verify that the main section is large enough.Already pmd @daohaus , but in case anyone else is wondering, the Overland Equipped 4Runner mount works great there.
Details here:
Dual Battery, Redarc charger, and Aux Fuse Panel Install
Just finished a dual-battery install and haven't seen a similar setup documented here, and had some requests after posting notes in "What have you done to your 100 this week", so here goes: Parts I used: Parts list: Deep Cycle Battery: VMAXMB96 AGM Group 22 Deep Cycle Battery Replacement for...
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