What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (40 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Question for you folks. When you first open the door and climb in do you hear your gauges prime itself? Mine sounds like gears are turning
 
Is it definitely your gauges? Can you get it to repeat while sitting at the wheel and listening? Only noises I hear are after the key’s inserted.
Question for you folks. When you first open the door and climb in do you hear your gauges prime itself? Mine sounds like gears are turning
 
Today was to be front and rear LED lightbars, but the front one hasn't arrived yet.

The brackets are Rola, and despite being of great quality they are expensive and of stupid design as they have no serrations to lock a lightbar in place and I use my rack for carrying timber, new household doors, ladders etc. so the bolt threads protruding above the rack will be a real problem. The photo on the vendor's website showed a different (now discontinued) front mounted Rola bracket. The vendor has done the right thing and taken down that photo now, but he tells me there's no lightbar undermount available. I gave up and fitted the ones he sent me anyway as I'd been waiting a month for them to arrive.

I got around the protruding bolt problem on the rear LED by mounting the brackets to the Rhino crossbar. The rear light will be wired into the reversing circuit (with an on/off switch).

I won't have the crossbar mount option for the front LED as the Rola tray rails are in the way.



20210831_174758.jpg


20210831_174741.jpg
 
Last edited:
timing belt/water pump, radiator/thermostat, all hoses, steering fluid pump, CVJ, diff/transfer case fluids, spark plugs/coils, crank/cam seals,

at 250k miles, good for another 100k before rinse/repeat.
 
I got over 250k on mine, and just replaced both while I was in there doing the diff, bearings and ball joints, since I knew I’d be wheeling harder than most. One original is still perfect the other has the tiniest play. From what I understand, having the front locker takes some stress out of the whole system when wheeling hard and lifting tires. When in Moab, AHC was on high for hours, but going very slow. I only use it when high clearance is needed now. Didn’t use it for Devils Staircase.

View attachment 2773090
Sweet pic. I haven't had mine out yet to wheel, because every time I think about it I think... man what if some of this old busted mess breaks on the trail first time out. That's not a good look.

My particular axles are toast; starting to make not good noises. Had it in the shop other day to chase down some vibrations, thought I'd get tires balanced. They did that, then the mechanic pointed out that the tie rod ends (all 4) and CV joints are done and what I'm hearing/ feeling is probably those axles/ related to all that.

So- just time to replace some driveline stuff. I'm doing all that, diff seals, will flush and refill the diff while I'm in there, and throwing on new drive flanges, too, to maybe take out some of The Clunk. After that, if it's still there, we'll just keep chasing it and see what else needs doing. Next might be diff bushings/ mounts (at which point I was thinking of the diff drop as a maybe-add) and then check on the u-joints too. Somewhere in there the AHC globes will get done. And after all THAT if it doesn't ride nicer than it ever has under my ownership... well then I guess it just won't. 😅
 
I suspect that all of the water crossings I've done over the years have caused my rear brake caliper pins to rust and seize. The brakes still work, but there is an absolutely annoying squeaking which just doesn't sound comforting. And the pads are wearing unevenly. So I bought new calipers and some StopTech rotors to match those that I put on the front years ago.

 
@artwerks Do your rear calipers still have those small dust shields on top held on by 2 screws? I had the same issue and those dust covers were tweeked and juuuuust barely touching my wheel barrel giving a wacky squeaking noise.
 
New washer reservoir for larger battery or just replacing the one that's in there?
Actually that’s my original one. It was covered in battery acid plus 14 years’ worth of crud and grime. I was seriously considering just throwing it in the trash, but decided to disassemble it and thoroughly clean it up. It’s like a 9.5 out of 10 now. 😄

76772C4C-5057-46A4-86DF-4129FD8FF852.jpeg

F321C5F4-5A30-4B4D-A854-DEC154995E88.jpeg

2AAB4D8D-A6E7-445C-90BD-E068AE4E7015.jpeg
 
Stopped by the collision shop to visit Thundercat for the first time in two weeks. Owner in the blue polo was explaining the painting process to me and how challenging it was to get the right shade of Thunder Cloud Metallic. In doing so, he accidentally brushed his palm along the wet paint on my A-pillar. Doh 😖 It needs to be fixed now. Technician was smiling, but you know on the inside he wasn’t 😂 But still on track to get my Cruiser back tomorrow once Safelite installs my windshield.

0FD86A9D-4695-4D84-8422-6D3DD3E3E1CA.jpeg
 
Stopped by the collision shop to visit Thundercat for the first time in two weeks. Owner in the blue polo was explaining the painting process to me and how challenging it was to get the right shade of Thunder Cloud Metallic. In doing so, he accidentally brushed his palm along the wet paint on my A-pillar. Doh 😖 It needs to be fixed now. Technician was smiling, but you know on the inside he wasn’t 😂 But still on track to get my Cruiser back tomorrow once Safelite installs my windshield.

View attachment 2774188
What did it cost you to have it painted, if you don’t mind me asking?
 
What did it cost you to have it painted, if you don’t mind me asking?
Sorry, I should clarify for others who haven’t seen my posts about my rust repair.

My windshield was due to be replaced, but there some paint bubbling and obvious rust on the A-pillar. Safelite wanted that addressed first, so I took it to Caliber Collision. Original quote was like $568 to sand down the rust, repaint the window opening, etc. Unfortunately, once the windshield was off and the moulding pulled back, it was discovered that the rust was like 50X worse. So they had to grind stuff down drastically, fab some pieces and weld them in. I’m at about $1,200 right now. But it will be fixed right and that’s what I was most concerned about.

6B9A8407-C4C7-4FBB-A05C-955CE63E0774.jpeg
3CDD5D64-D340-4DDE-9776-9C7DEECDC75D.jpeg
4C41884F-5B1F-45FA-8D0B-8B5383E781FF.jpeg
8A6EA092-3348-4CE4-BEB5-6F166D035562.jpeg
E9D0C999-D472-40E0-A2E6-4A630A04EF1D.jpeg
 
Sorry, I should clarify for others who haven’t seen my posts about my rust repair.

My windshield was due to be replaced, but there some paint bubbling and obvious rust on the A-pillar. Safelite wanted that addressed first, so I took it to Caliber Collision. Original quote was like $568 to sand down the rust, repaint the window opening, etc. Unfortunately, once the windshield was off and the moulding pulled back, it was discovered that the rust was like 50X worse. So they had to grind stuff down drastically, fab some pieces and weld them in. I’m at about $1,200 right now. But it will be fixed right and that’s what I was most concerned about.

View attachment 2774204View attachment 2774205View attachment 2774206View attachment 2774207View attachment 2774208
Are you planning to have them use the rivets again or going with the non-rivet alternate installation method that someone had figured out?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom