What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (33 Viewers)

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More info on that head unit please.
That's a quicker start up than i thought. it must not be shutting down all the way. I second more info needed....
 
Put on recovery points from Trail Tailor, broke the bolts in the rear my partner in crime @Comet tried welding some nuts on and cutting it out with a plasma cutter but that failed. Had to pull the bumper off and pop off the captive nuts with a cold chisel. Found more rust than I wanted to find, I sprayed all of that down with a rust converter. Trimmed down the mud flaps, seems to be a little bit faster, kind of like after an oil change or a wash and wax.:p
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Nice upgrades! I would worry about the exposed rams on the rear shocks getting pitted. Lower half of the rear shocks get pelted with road debris because they are situated in front of the rear axle. Perhaps there are some sorts of covers you could put on?
Thats a great thought, looking into it!

Cheers
 
I've been looking for a portable air solution. I'm curious to see how long it would take to fill a 33" tire. Please post your results and findings.
Alright here is our real world testing on the Viair 400P from 18 PSI to 38 PSI

For 35s (315/70/17) tires: 2 mins 52 seconds
For 33s (275/70/18) tires: 1 min 47 seconds

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Back to topic, I just experienced my first gas fume smell yesterday after filling it up. Started to search for clues on the vacuum/vent lines of the fuel system and see if there’s any loose or leaking, just one bolt of the VSV that was loose and retightened it. Took the opportunity and cleaned the engine bay a little bit.
 
That's a great looking engine bay @OEMGUY0720
Thanks @MongooseGA this gas/fuel smell issue is very intermittent. I just used the truck today (a bit cooler than yesterday at 85°F outside temp for a total of half hour and this time no gas smell at all. The hunt continues til the next use.
 
As is frequently posted in the 80 section: That’ll buff right out.

Man, I hope so.
 
Starting next build phase on my 99

  1. Install Nitro 4.88 Gear Kit
  2. Install Harrop Front E-Locker (wire up to OEM switch) (wire up instrument cluster to light up FDL when front locker activated)
  3. Replace Rear OEM Diff Lock Actuator
  4. Add Slee Rear Diff Lock Guard
  5. Replace both CV Axles
  6. Replace U-Joints on front and rear drive shafts
  7. Replace Axle Flange and gaskets (Chevron Ultra Duty EP Grease)
  8. Replace Cone Washers
  9. Replace Motor Mounts (new hardware)
  10. Replace Front Diff Cover and (2) Front Diff Support (new hardware)
  11. Replace Front Rotors and Front Brake Pads
  12. Replace Rear Brake Pads

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Starting next build phase on my 99

  1. Install Nitro 4.88 Gear Kit
  2. Install Harrop Front E-Locker (wire up to OEM switch) (wire up instrument cluster to light up FDL when front locker activated)
  3. Replace Rear OEM Diff Lock Actuator
  4. Add Slee Rear Diff Lock Guard
  5. Replace both CV Axles
  6. Replace U-Joints on front and rear drive shafts
  7. Replace Axle Flange and gaskets (Chevron Ultra Duty EP Grease)
  8. Replace Cone Washers
  9. Replace Motor Mounts (new hardware)
  10. Replace Front Diff Cover and (2) Front Diff Support (new hardware)
  11. Replace Front Rotors and Front Brake Pads
  12. Replace Rear Brake Pads

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Nice!
 
Starting next build phase on my 99

  1. Install Nitro 4.88 Gear Kit
  2. Install Harrop Front E-Locker (wire up to OEM switch) (wire up instrument cluster to light up FDL when front locker activated)
  3. Replace Rear OEM Diff Lock Actuator
  4. Add Slee Rear Diff Lock Guard
  5. Replace both CV Axles
  6. Replace U-Joints on front and rear drive shafts
  7. Replace Axle Flange and gaskets (Chevron Ultra Duty EP Grease)
  8. Replace Cone Washers
  9. Replace Motor Mounts (new hardware)
  10. Replace Front Diff Cover and (2) Front Diff Support (new hardware)
  11. Replace Front Rotors and Front Brake Pads
  12. Replace Rear Brake Pads

View attachment 2430334

View attachment 2430335

View attachment 2430336

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View attachment 2430338
Man Xmas came early in that household!!!
 
Alright here is our real world testing on the Viair 400P from 18 PSI to 38 PSI

For 35s (315/70/17) tires: 2 mins 52 seconds
For 33s (275/70/18) tires: 1 min 47 seconds

View attachment 2430062Back to topic, I just experienced my first gas fume smell yesterday after filling it up. Started to search for clues on the vacuum/vent lines of the fuel system and see if there’s any loose or leaking, just one bolt of the VSV that was loose and retightened it. Took the opportunity and cleaned the engine bay a little bit.

What’s your secret/process to such a clean engine bay?
 
My wife and I saw really nice fj40 as we were leaving a restaurant a couple weeks ago. My wife thought the four-wheel drive emblem would look great on the hundred series.

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Nice upgrades! I would worry about the exposed rams on the rear shocks getting pitted. Lower half of the rear shocks get pelted with road debris because they are situated in front of the rear axle. Perhaps there are some sorts of covers you could put on?
Icon sells boots for them. I know I and Ikarus both have boots.
 
Replaced the alternator (again). It didn't work. No OBD codes or any sign of malfunction other than the voltage dropping to 12.5 while it was running. After hours of fretting and and checking fuses and wires, it turns out the "S" and "I" wires were shot (that or the ECU is bad). I remedied that, and now it's working great. I rigged up a bench test just to see, and wouldn't you know the old alternator is fine too. So now I have a spare.
 
Threw on the OEM tow hitch receiver for my LX. It's a small product, but it's a really high quality item. I heard elsewhere it was causing issues with larger spares, but I didn't have any issues on my end, with a 33" underneath.

Also installed a Yakima Rideback 4 bike carrier, the bottom part that goes into the hitch receiver touches the spare, but barely. The tailgate also doesn’t go all the way down now, because it hits the hinge part of the carrier. Maybe about 2 inches before laying flat.

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More info on that head unit please.

Joying 10.25" Headunit:
AliExpress link

Finished the Antenna wire and Reverse wire for Reverse Camera I already had this morning. Not sure I'll use the 4G , usb, mic or the rest but connected it all and routed it to good areas. One of these did everything except the antenna cont. & reverse wire.
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They don't put the Antenna cont. wire through the HEAD UNITs ISO plugs, its left seperate off the back of the HU.
Hardest part of the job - chop the blue on the Aepro ISO to Toyota Harness adapter then solder it to the Ant Cont.

That's a quicker start up than i thought. it must not be shutting down all the way. I second more info needed....
That unit turned on literally like that first time. It must have held memory since before it was posted (China) hasn't done a full boot as yet.
Doing research I've found that the SC9853I Intel chip is best compromise for both boot speed and speed in general.
The PX6 is the fastest but does not do the quick boot , I think it is an Intel thing. (or it is just not supported for now)

The Intel chip sits between PX5 and PX6 on speed but still quite quicker than the PX5.
Yeah so that Joying unit is an Intel SC9853I chip does quick boot in about 2 seconds and having used it quite a bit now, its so much faster than these Pioneer, Kenwood store bought brands. You can do heaps on them with apps and stuff. Bluetooth is fast. WiFi great connection speed and range. Reverse camera quicker than the old Pioneer touch screen from 2009 as well. The SC9853I chip also has custom firmware and rootkits as well, and is commonly customised. Pretty happy with the purchase.
 

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