1999 100 series (235k miles) radiator replacement, with full petcock drain-If you've never done this before, I'm happy to help you locate and work through it. Got a new Toyota radiator. This came with the foam already attached and a new cap. Also, found the holy grail (according to Darren) of non-Toyota antifreeze. While I was in there, replaced the heater hose T's and the junk after market Import Direct fan clutch with an Aisin. You can just see the difference in quality and hear the difference in the sound coming from under the hood. The Aisin is serviceable while the ID is a "sealed" system. I use the term sealed loosely...it was leaking all over the place. After installing a new fan shroud, I put it all back togther. I was warned that there could be some seeping on the old heater hose, which there was. After adjusting the constant tension clamps,,,BOOM! No more leaks! These clamps are a pain to remove and adjust. They build them in the factory with all of the grip points pointed down or away from your side of the engine (had to work on both sides and up over the top). Felt like I was auditioning for Cirque du Soleil's newest show as I contorted my body to gain access. Silicone hoses are probably in my future, but decided to hold off on this for the time being. Toyota wanted $170 for the heater hose kit alone, which is literally a few feet of 5/8th and 1/2" heater hose...ridiculous! Bought some back up hoses at NAPA for about $5. As a side note, one of the hose T's just broke apart in my hands as I was attempting to pull the hoses. This is common from all of my research. Couldn't get the hoses off without cutting them and didn't want to risk breaking a fitting, so carefully worked the plastic out of the hoses so as to not introduce into the system. Went with the Toyota T's, but probably should've sprang for the stainless steel. Maybe next time when I win the lottery.
Side projects recently included ARB slider install, Transmission fluid drain (partial) and Transfer Case oil change with AT-205 additive (it was leaking a little before so fingers crossed), Power Steering flush, and home jobber diff breather reroute. ARB wants $75+ for the breather kit. Think I did mine for about $20. Stuck with the factory line size of 6MM while the ARB kit supersizes to 8MM ID. I kept the original breather valves and gave them a thorough cleaning before reinstalling. Soon will add the snorkel.
Currently trying to pinpoint some rough idling after the engine is hot and that annoying chirp sound on the rear suspension. Thinking it's a few bad bushings in the rear control arms?