Joey, being a huge perv, I don't think that's a musical act.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (45 Viewers)
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Ram X Mount, AVH270BT, Pioneer TS-G1645R X4, Midland 1001LWX, and a couple AOB switches.
How well does that ram mount work? Any shake going down a washboard road ?
I have been looking for a more versatile spring that will perform the ability to have a plush ride while empty, but have firm stability when loaded down on family trips. The OME 860 coils I had gave a big stinkbug while DDing around town empty then when loaded with only kids, Ice chest & misc. items it would start to squat.
After doing a lot of research I learned of springs that have two spring ratings rather than one, they call them dual rate. It turns out Old Man Emu has two to that will fit the 80 series. The 866 would be way to firm for my needs having a rating of 240/300 lbs. The other is the 862 with a rating of 170/260. 170lb. is the factory spec for the 80 series & 250lb. rate is what OME uses for the heavy 863 spring.
What does this mean?
A 170/260 lb. rating means plush/firm.
Now that I have broke them in a bit loaded & empty, they are just what I wanted. They have helped Lexi450 have even better turning manners. I can feel the plush 170lb. rate while empty, they feel very nice. When I make fast hard turns I can feel them set into the firmer 260lb. rate & it turns like it's on rails. I can't be happer.
To note: these are considered to be stock height replacement springs that gives approximately 1" lift over stock. To achieve a 2" lift I added 30mm to them giving a final center hub to bottom of flare of 22" after minus of 1" for my body lift (Stock is approx. 20").
If only OME would only add one more turn & .5mm thicker wire to the 862 it would increase lift by 1" like they do to the 850 & 850J. They could call it an 862J.... Hmmmm, just having fun.
Lexi450 sits level loaded with approx 300 to 400 pounds in back & full tank of gas.
After doing a lot of research I learned of springs that have two spring ratings rather than one, they call them dual rate. It turns out Old Man Emu has two to that will fit the 80 series. The 866 would be way to firm for my needs having a rating of 240/300 lbs. The other is the 862 with a rating of 170/260. 170lb. is the factory spec for the 80 series & 250lb. rate is what OME uses for the heavy 863 spring.
What does this mean?
A 170/260 lb. rating means plush/firm.
Now that I have broke them in a bit loaded & empty, they are just what I wanted. They have helped Lexi450 have even better turning manners. I can feel the plush 170lb. rate while empty, they feel very nice. When I make fast hard turns I can feel them set into the firmer 260lb. rate & it turns like it's on rails. I can't be happer.
To note: these are considered to be stock height replacement springs that gives approximately 1" lift over stock. To achieve a 2" lift I added 30mm to them giving a final center hub to bottom of flare of 22" after minus of 1" for my body lift (Stock is approx. 20").
If only OME would only add one more turn & .5mm thicker wire to the 862 it would increase lift by 1" like they do to the 850 & 850J. They could call it an 862J.... Hmmmm, just having fun.
Lexi450 sits level loaded with approx 300 to 400 pounds in back & full tank of gas.
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Sneak preview 
It works very well, I haven't been down washboard with it but a fair amount of gravel. It shakes but not what I would consider excessive.
Got a custom MOLLE panel made for the lower half of the rear tailgate.
This is genius!
Flushed the coolant out and then re-flushed the next day...pretty sure it's all water at this point. A flush kit adapter tied into the heater line leading back to the thermostat with the heater control valve open seems to flush all the coolant out of the block drain hole on the first flush. Ready to change hoses, water pump, etc this weekend.
Also, got my $$$ from that damn gas station situation...
Also, got my $$$ from that damn gas station situation...
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Flushed the coolant out and then re-flushed the next day...pretty sure it's all water at this point. A flush kit adapter tied into the heater line leading back to the thermostat with the heater control valve open seems to flush all the coolant out of the block drain hole on the first flush. Ready to change hoses, water pump, etc this weekend.
Also, got my $$$ from that damn gas station situation...
If you had a 3FE a little water in the gas wouldn't have been a big deal. Granted, you'd still be driving on your way home because the 3FE is so slow...
Seriously though, I have gotten gas in Central and South America from a roadside "gas station" which consisted of a 55 gallon drum with a tarp over it. It didn't even smell like gas. Never skipped a beat.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Hahaha! I had someone ask me to make something just like that. I wasn't interested in making one offs. But it's cool to see it made up. I like sitting on my tailgate too much
Yeah, I hear you...running nice and smooth again now. I saved some of the "gas" in a gallon plastic jug when I drained the tank, about 3/4 or more of the contents froze to solid ice when the temp got to the mid-lower 20s F a few nights ago.
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
Somewhere in the middle of the desert...
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Got to meet a 60 today going to work. Had to chase him down and say hi. One of two I've seen in town.
Hi,
today I've been trying to trace some water infiltration and took the chance to also change the rear switches that make the dome light come on.. And the 80 ate one of my tools, a precision screwdriver... It went trough the hole above the wheel arch from where the switch wire comes...
Is there a way of getting it without a grinding machine?!?
Regarding water coming in issue, I've been looking for some tips in another forum but I'll try also here... There's water showing on my jack support and on the right rear corner of the sunroof ( on heavier rains), above the passenger head, Any tips?
Cheers
today I've been trying to trace some water infiltration and took the chance to also change the rear switches that make the dome light come on.. And the 80 ate one of my tools, a precision screwdriver... It went trough the hole above the wheel arch from where the switch wire comes...
Is there a way of getting it without a grinding machine?!?
Regarding water coming in issue, I've been looking for some tips in another forum but I'll try also here... There's water showing on my jack support and on the right rear corner of the sunroof ( on heavier rains), above the passenger head, Any tips?
Cheers
I have this exact same issue (assuming you're talking about the car jack holder in the body panel in the rear cargo area,) hadn't started to bird-dog it yet though. Interested in what you find out.....
I had some water in my jack holder, and wet carpet in the rear corners of the cargo area. Tracked it to a leaking rear hatch seal in the upper corners where the PO had some wires running for TV antennaes stuck on the back hatch glass, the wires had deformed the seal over the years, and now that I'd removed the wires the seal wasn't keeping water out. Water would run down the D-pillars when it rained, carwash, etc.
Can you get a magnet recovery tool down there to get it?
jfz80
Cruisin’
The outside trim piece underneath the sliding Windows is known to leak and that's where the water ended up on mine (in the jack holder) it simply pushes in with 4 or 5 clips. I removed and dabbed some fipg on each receiver and popped the trim back on. Been good since.
Remove interior panel and look up inside to see clips
Still have some tweaking to do but so far im happy.
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