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DId you get a conversion kit for the front? Which one?
Same as above, Im using the @TRAIL TAILOR front and rear coil swap kits.
Another convert to JIS screwdriver set, here. I picked up a Vessel set recently and the large driver was the only way to get the door armrest screws to drive home into new white plastic mount bushings. Took lots steady pressure but worked out perfect,
I installed the AFI system and 90% of the time no issues, but I also get a lean condition under certain load conditions. I am wondering if the long stroke causes an issue with the fuel map. The issue I had with the factory carb was how bad it ran when cold. Always had to fiddle with choke until it was warm.
mine runs great under load, no issues there at all. It will intermittently lean out, stumble badly, then recover ONLY when returning to idle. It also doesnt want to cold start to save its life, and again, even that is intermittent. Yesterday it cold started beautifully. High idle, running rich like it should when cold, and ramping down to normal idle and leaning itself out to the target AFR as it gets some heat in it. This morning, with no changes, it cold started, s*** on itself, idled at about 300rpm and then stalled. It restarted and s*** its pants again, then stalled and died. Restarted fine.
Assuming everything else is in great condition (ignition, vac leaks, compression, etc) have you done any tuning for hot starts? My 40 has a sniper and I tuned the best hot starts I could, then added fuel, etc to the cold starts to get them where I want. Reason being, you only really get 1 cold start per day to tune, but infinite hot starts, so tune great hot starts, then finesse the cold starts.
It's desmogged so very minimal stuff to leak vacuum. I've meticulously smoke tested the intake for leaks though and have made several repairs. It warm/hot starts perfectly. Same with the exhaust side pre- 02 sensor, made sure there are no leaks via soapy water and a shop vac pushing thru the tailpipe. I took it all apart the other day and removed the heat riser and rod from the manifold due to a leak at the bushing that won't hold with JB weld. So I'm taking it to get welded this moring to eliminate it once and for all, I can weld but I don't want to attempt a repair on cast iron. I adjusted the valves last winter. Any adjustments or repairs I make from this point forward will have to wait until spring to be tested. It's in the garage for the winter because they've already salted the roads in wisconsin.
My 60 with Sniper does the same thing, causing my idle to momentarily drop below 500rpm and it sounds like it is a fairly common issue (not just on Toyota I-6's). I've found that the lean spike seems to be worse when it is cold outside and the engine is cold. It's in the 30's overnight in NC this week and I've been playing with Idle rampdown and IAC settings to see if anything helps (they don't appear to). Today I actually raised the idle from 700 to 750 rpm and that seems to have improved it. I'm not sure if it is because the lean spike doesn't drop the RPM quite as low (i.e. 50rpm higher) or if it's because the IAC is running in the 7-8% range at idle whereas I typically have it adjusted to ~3%. I intend to adjust the idle screw this weekend to bring the idle IAC back down to 3% at 750 rpm and will see if that improves things.
Yeah I’ve messed with those settings as well and also fuel enrichment on cold starts with no real results. I have my idle set at 750rpm and my IAC at 6%.
I'm looking forward to following this since I have a front axle I'll be doing the same with.
this is odd....Cold Starts at 9600' was perhaps the best part of the Sniper with my rig....never failed!! That and never stalling coming to a stop etc.
What seats are those?
