What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (25 Viewers)

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Got some meat for BBQ! Thanks Mom for having a birthday, good excuse to pick up some quality brisket ;) :beer:
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FJ60 door refresh...I have been gathering parts for over a year now before starting this project because I hoped to only open them up once....while that didn't exactly work out I did get replace: door handles, actuators, inside and outside felts, track seals and speakers on both doors. Also screwed down the connector that connects the bar to the handle and it made the doors a lot easier to open. If you do replace your speakers make sure you throw a little solder on your blade connector...they might vibrate off if you dont :)....Windows roll up a lot easier and smoother. I am airtight and in disbelief I was getting any music out of the stock speakers. They simply disintegrated when I touched the paper cones. I reused the plastic sheeting on the door pictured and just ordered some 3M strip caulk to reattach, but ended up replacing the other side with 2mil plastic as it tore to pieces when I tried to remove.
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FJ60 door refresh...I have been gathering parts for over a year now before starting this project because I hoped to only open them up once....while that didn't exactly work out I did get replace: door handles, actuators, inside and outside felts, track seals and speakers on both doors. Also screwed down the connector that connects the bar to the handle and it made the doors a lot easier to open. If you do replace your speakers make sure you throw a little solder on your blade connector...they might vibrate off if you dont :)....Windows roll up a lot easier and smoother. I am airtight and in disbelief I was getting any music out of the stock speakers. They simply disintegrated when I touched the paper cones. I reused the plastic sheeting on the door pictured and just ordered some 3M strip caulk to reattach, but ended up replacing the other side with 2mil plastic as it tore to pieces when I tried to remove.
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Where did you get the track seals?? Are those the seals the windows roll up into? My driver side got pinched and dsnt close correctly...
 
Is this for a transfer case rebuild? Thats next on my list and curious what a trxfr case rebuild entails.

Thanks

no this is just replacing the 3rd members in the axles, but I am going to put 4:1 gears for the transfer case at some point I would reach out to Georg at Valley hybrid he can definitely get you what you need for it.
 
Where did you get the track seals?? Are those the seals the windows roll up into? My driver side got pinched and dsnt close correctly...

got almost everything except the speakers and the spacers from Cruiser Parts. I cant remember where I got the actuators, but ordered everything OEM that I could.


2 x Front Door Inner Window Belt Rubber 81 - 90 (68170-90A01) = $99.40
2 x Front Door Glass Run Channel 81-90 Left or Right (68141-90A00 / 68141-90A01) = $198.00
2 x Front Door Outer Window Belt Rubber L or R 81 - 90 60 series (68210-90A02) = $69.98
1 x Front Left Outer Door Handle for 81-90 60 Series (D 69220-90K00) = $52.99
Vehicle Orientation Front Left
1 x Front Left Outer Door Handle for 81-90 60 Series (D 69220-90K00) = $52.99
Vehicle Orientation Front Right
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Sub-Total: $473.36
United States Postal Service (Priority Mail™ Medium Flat Rate Box): $16.35
Total: $498.23
 
@John Staton I can’t remember if your truck is repainted or just paint corrected- it looks great!

I can tell it has been sprayed. I got it a couple years ago and there is overspray on some of the moldings. It does shine up nice.
 
Waiting on a replacement fuel regulator for the new Holley Sniper. Fuel pressure gauge would spin all the way past 100 psi and stop at the zero pin. No wonder fuel would splash out the top.
So got busy removing the headlight washers. The reservoir was broke, check valves didn't work and rust was bubbling the paint around one of the nozzles. Was able to unscrew one of the screws, the other three had to be drilled out. My 16 yr old son thinks I should fix them to spray blood red fluid on the headlights to show other drivers my displeasure. 😆😂. I like how he thinks!
 
Parked next to this high roof, RHD 5 speed that I assume is an HJ61 as it also had Turbo embossed on the seats.
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JM Stockyard has good meat but it is exceptionally expensive. FYI Reid Market right around the corner and has a great butcher for about half price.

I love the guys there and my friend screenprints all their merch. The ham biscuits they serve are at least a once-a-week stop for me as well; it’s become a regular spot for me! Never heard of Reid’s. For price comparison, I paid $50 for 4~lb of brisket and it was top quality stuff. If you’ve never had one of their ham biscuits I beg you to try one!
 
If some of our spouse/significant others find out we are on Mud Porn talking about "MEAT"... They might not understand. Something similar happen to me when a member posted pics of their 5-speed "TRANNY" on this thread.
 
Should I rip out my headliner?

Today I finally managed to caulk the gutters, after many months of frustrating "progress". After dealing with the minor rust, I coated with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, then used 3M Fast 'n Firm caulking (this was months ago). This turned into a mess as it skins over in 10 seconds and my finger got all gooped up and it wouldn't smooth nicely. And when I pulled the masking tape off it snapped back and wrecked it. $50 down the drain.

I tried to clean that up with a razor blade then used 3M self levelling seam sealer. One of those is about $100 here in Canada. The special gun for it is even more expensive. I refused to support that highway robbery so I modified a regular caulking gun to do it. Well that put uneven pressure on the tubes and one side didn't come out properly so most of the epoxy didn't set in the gutters and made a huge mess. I had to clean that out with acetone. And you need at least two of those tubes for the whole roof gutter. Ridiculous $ and I didn't even like how it turned out in the areas where it did set -- too brittle. Another $100 down the drain.

Then I had to clean it all up again and retouch up with Rust Encapsulator.
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And today I finally decided to use the $15 tube of Dominion Sure Seal which hasn't let me down before. It gives you about a minute before skinning over.
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Success! I'll give it a couple weeks to cure then paint it.
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Now my question is: Should I rip out my headliner????

It is in decent shape I guess with two rips.
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But it's a bit gross and I think it is what is stinking up the car. A PO was a smoker. The carpet is mostly gone.

I want to spray linseed oil based rust inhibitor on the inside of the roof gutters to halt the rust from the inside so the headliner has to come out. The PO had the truck sitting outside for a year with open holes in the roof rack mounts so rain water seeped in (it rains a lot here). There is rust around the gutters in places. Not deep rot but rust starting. It looks bad in this photo underneath the gutter but it isn't too bad; it's just rusting inside the pinch weld and needs to be stopped from the inside with rust inhibitor once the outside is painted and sealed up.

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But I read that you have to remove the windshield to take out the headliner. Is this totally necessary? The windshield is the best part of the truck with no cracks or rust around the edge.

Can I put a new headliner back in with a bit of a remnant of the old headliner along the windshield, without replacing the windshield?
 
But I read that you have to remove the windshield to take out the headliner. Is this totally necessary? The windshield is the best part of the truck with no cracks or rust around the edge.

Can I put a new headliner back in with a bit of a remnant of the old headliner along the windshield, without replacing the windshield?

Just take the windshield out and put it back. No need to replace it if you take it out without breaking it. It is doable but not in a hurry.
 

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