thinking about working on carb vacuum leak on blue pig and took a ratchet out of the pickle....does that count?
What did you do to your pig today?
- Thread starter ABQIRONPIG
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Before pics here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...id-you-do-your-pig-today-137.html#post8451878
I am not a welder. I have no training. It shows, but it is done. First the progress and then done.
The joy of completion lasted only as long as it took for me to walk over and look at the driver door....
DOUBLE
ME!
Did I mention I am not a welder???
I am not a welder. I have no training. It shows, but it is done. First the progress and then done.
The joy of completion lasted only as long as it took for me to walk over and look at the driver door....
DOUBLE
ME! Did I mention I am not a welder???
Two words brother - shielding gas
Tucker
I hear ya. This is with a flux core welder and the first time I have tried to weld. There isn't holes, I just didn't want to grind the high spots down any further and get into parent metal. I could have filled with some bondo, and smooth it out, I guess.
I might try taking a class at the community college.
Judson,
I've never used flux core wire, so no help from me, but I do think the hinges are not a good place to begin. Maybe get a pro to weld them and practice up on some scrap metal.
Keep welding though, it's fun and a great thing to know.
I've never used flux core wire, so no help from me, but I do think the hinges are not a good place to begin. Maybe get a pro to weld them and practice up on some scrap metal.
Keep welding though, it's fun and a great thing to know.
toyo-judson, remember, if it doesn't hold, you can weld it again. great place to learn because it's not a visible area. i'm no welder either, but i did both doors on my blue pig and bosshogs drivers door. only thing i f'd up was when doing my passenger door, i forgot to pull the metal out, so the door still drops a bit. i need to shim it. bosshogs door and my drivers door both close beautifully now.
flux is possibly the hardest to learn with....it's a balance of lingering long enough to penetrate and make a bead without birdcrap, but not lingering so long the flux burns thru. a CO2 bottle and helper could turn that flux core wire feeder into a MIG. run MIG wire(non flux) at about 025" diameter with a stream of co2 being applied directly to the bead being run will give better results and more consistent penetration. flux is very hard to do on thin stuff- much easier and more suited to thicker materials, and can actually penetrate deeper than MIG, but takes alot of time to get good at laying cleanish beads with. best part with metal, as Ige points out, is that you can go back and add material or remove material whenevr you want- it is NOT like wood, or money(once cut, gone forever). you might also try to hold some backing material up behind those welds as you're laying them. I mean to use a piece of brass plate or such that will not take the weld; you can support the back of your work with the non ferrous metal to prevent alot of back side slag and get more weld into the bead...and don't ever chip the flux off without eye protection. HTH
with these hinge pads, I'd use a piece of 16th or 8th bigger than the hole, tack that thing flush up to the inside of the hingepad, then place the hinge pad over the top and burn it all in- as Scrappdaddy points out, those areas are going to want some extra support...
with these hinge pads, I'd use a piece of 16th or 8th bigger than the hole, tack that thing flush up to the inside of the hingepad, then place the hinge pad over the top and burn it all in- as Scrappdaddy points out, those areas are going to want some extra support...
scrapdaddy & nuclearlemon,
I appreciate both points of view. If I had the money to farm this out, I would consider it. Truth is, I don't. I'll need to figure it out eventually and I am more prone to try something and deal with consequences.
The passenger door weld seems like it is holding (so far). I need to add some 1/8" plate with the blind nuts for the driver. I'll try to fab it up today....
I appreciate both points of view. If I had the money to farm this out, I would consider it. Truth is, I don't. I'll need to figure it out eventually and I am more prone to try something and deal with consequences.
The passenger door weld seems like it is holding (so far). I need to add some 1/8" plate with the blind nuts for the driver. I'll try to fab it up today....
Thanks LAMBCRUSHER! I didn't know I could turn my flux core into straight MIG.... Mine is like this one: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-Weld-Pack-HD-Feed-Welder-K2188-1/100031840#.UtwH8hDn-Uk
I got it for a good deal from another mudder last year, but have only whored it out to friends it out until this weekend.
I did find with it set at lowest heat and almost highest speed, it would still like to blow through. I tried angling toward the thicker metal. It worked ok. Where I was able to, I backed it up with a copper bar and that helped too. I'll be searching the interwebs for how to convert it over...
THANKS!
I got it for a good deal from another mudder last year, but have only whored it out to friends it out until this weekend.
I did find with it set at lowest heat and almost highest speed, it would still like to blow through. I tried angling toward the thicker metal. It worked ok. Where I was able to, I backed it up with a copper bar and that helped too. I'll be searching the interwebs for how to convert it over...
THANKS!
try this kit; prolly find it elsewhere and even on-line. it'll give you everything you need to go to MIG. you'll have to reverse output polarity and use CO2 on mild or a blend for stainless or straight argon for aluminum. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-...d-Welder-MIG-Conversion-Kit-K610-1/100341065#
basically, this kit is just a solenoid and regulator with plumbing and some new liners for your torch sleeve; a steady stream of shield gas applied even manually at the bead being laid, correct MIG polarity and wire and you have a MIG in effect; the solenoid and regulator are really just there for efficient use of the gas. guys use TIGs all the time in process welding with a plain argon bottle with a regulator to dole out the gas slowly completely divorced from their welders. they simply hold the open end of the gas hose at their work...
basically, this kit is just a solenoid and regulator with plumbing and some new liners for your torch sleeve; a steady stream of shield gas applied even manually at the bead being laid, correct MIG polarity and wire and you have a MIG in effect; the solenoid and regulator are really just there for efficient use of the gas. guys use TIGs all the time in process welding with a plain argon bottle with a regulator to dole out the gas slowly completely divorced from their welders. they simply hold the open end of the gas hose at their work...
I agree with lambcrusher right down the line. I have welded all of my hinge points and the usual body spots, with good success. Another tip is, wire brush/grind the areas to be welded. It will make controlling the weld much easier, with better results, and less contaminates in the weld. Even a pro will struggle welding dirty material.
chevorai is right. the cleaner the metal the easier to weld. that said, you will blow through. a lot most likely. i always do. if it's weak enough to crack, it's probably too thin which is why you're blowing through. you just work back to where you can weld and a little bit at a time, build the weld up until you can connect the dots. remember to do it a bit at a time since the thinner the metal the easier it warps.
taking a beer break from turning screws on the pigs carb. i swear they don't do anything 
Took the drivers door apart yesterday, put it back together today. Re-adjusted the lock linkage so that the door locks and unlocks with the key. Not quite as easy as it sounds as 3/4 of the linkage has to come out and go in several times to get it right.
But now, my original TEQ short key works in both front doors.
Also, tried to make a '78 window regulator work in my driver door. no go. Incredibly, my driver door is the original '74 door. The '78 regulator bolted in to the door shell, but, one of my first mods on that '74 door was to install a windwing and early door glass. the window channel on the '78 regulator is too long to fit inside the early window channels.
But now, my original TEQ short key works in both front doors.
Also, tried to make a '78 window regulator work in my driver door. no go. Incredibly, my driver door is the original '74 door. The '78 regulator bolted in to the door shell, but, one of my first mods on that '74 door was to install a windwing and early door glass. the window channel on the '78 regulator is too long to fit inside the early window channels.
taking a beer break from turning screws on the pigs carb. i swear they don't do anything
They do. The idle speed screw is hard to see, but it's there (towards the firewall, down low, reached from over the DS fender). Idle mixture screw won't do anything until the vacuum leak is gone.
Toyo judson
I am not sure but if that is galvanized metal, but I was told to be careful welding galvanized metal because it gives off poisenous fumes.
I tried to paste that picture but I'm retarded. It is the picture of the angle metal with all the holes in it that backs up the inside of the door.
I am not sure but if that is galvanized metal, but I was told to be careful welding galvanized metal because it gives off poisenous fumes.
I tried to paste that picture but I'm retarded. It is the picture of the angle metal with all the holes in it that backs up the inside of the door.
flat out can't get it to run without choke and even with proper studs and cranked down, i still get a leak somewhere in the front left corner. not sure if it's carb itself or mounting. it takes considerably less choke, but still needs choke. i guess i just suck, because the 4skinner has sprouted yet another major leak so there is a huge pressure issue somewhere and i don't know where. i give up...hopefully the broncos won't suck as bad as i do today. 
Did you let it warm up?
yes i did
Thanks for the heads up. Yes that is galvanized and no, I'm not welding it. It was used as a backing plate. fell right out...