Builds What did you do to your Land Cruiser/Toyota/Lexus 4X4 this week? (6 Viewers)

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Drove to CA yesterday to pick up some Rock Warriors with like new KO2's on them. Just got to get them mounted. Thanks to @DPA200 for the guidance.

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New front pads and rotors for the eight-zero. I managed 35k out of Hawk Super Duty truck pads till they began squealing. They consistently warped the previous rotors. I went budget performance with the well-reviewed R1 Concepts slotted rotors, and semi metallic pads.

I went with the same on the Daughter's 4Runner, solved the warping issue. Soon to go on mine.
 
Started to baseline my sons "new" 2002 Taco 4x4 with the help of our friends at Camelback Toyota. New timing belt and goodies, all new belts and 90% of the rubber under the hood. Truck has 105k miles on it now so it should last him for another 10 years easy. I love these trucks.

One complaint. We bought this from a little old lady in Sun City, one owner vehicle. ALWAYS serviced at the Toyota dealer nearest to SC. Records clearly show this. Those service techs half assed a lot on the vehicle. Missing or stripped bolts, missing parts such as the lower fan shroud for the radiator, broken parts not replaced.

The previous owner babied this thing, service up to date, fixed oil leaks immediately. Too bad the dealer didn't show it the same care. Makes me lose faith with service techs and why I only take mine in to pay Murph a visit, or service it on my own...
 
Unfortunately that is common. Several years ago Murf gave me a nickle tour of the shop and I had the opportunity to see several restorations going on and meet some of the mechanics. Class act.
 
Fine tuned my new to me RTT that a good friend gave me. Bees waxed the zipper and installed a longer lanyard, installed cover tie up straps, installed HPDE skids for easier install. Also designed my Gorilla Scaffold receiver hitch concept, going to get that fabbed up this week! The Gorilla is invaluable for deploying and packing the tent and makes an awesome camp stool, chair and table.
 
oil change and transmission drain/fill for the 80
 
In keeping with the "upgrade the brakes before SAS 3 in Colorado" theme, I installed a new/remanufactured power brake booster. Unfortunately, this is the 3rd O'Reilly remanufactured unit my 80 has seen in 35k/6 years of ownership. Last chance, or I say screw the warranty, and buy a new Seiken unit from Cruiseryard.

Also, I switched over from Mobil 1 10W-40 to Shell Rotella T5 15w-40. Oil pressure went from approx 40 to 53'ish on the 'ol 3FE. It is marginally cheaper, and quieted the engine down a little bit.
 
In keeping with the "upgrade the brakes before SAS 3 in Colorado" theme, I installed a new/remanufactured power brake booster. Unfortunately, this is the 3rd O'Reilly remanufactured unit my 80 has seen in 35k/6 years of ownership. Last chance, or I say screw the warranty, and buy a new Seiken unit from Cruiseryard.

Also, I switched over from Mobil 1 10W-40 to Shell Rotella T5 15w-40. Oil pressure went from approx 40 to 53'ish on the 'ol 3FE. It is marginally cheaper, and quieted the engine down a little bit.

How difficult was the brake booster? That's on my list.
 
How difficult was the brake booster? That's on my list.
Not bad at all. Takes about an hour on my 92. No need to remove the master cylinder either.

Just remember to set up the new PBB like the one you are removing. The brake pedal bracket and MC push rod should be adjusted to the same positions. The brake pedal return spring is the trickiest part of the install IMO.
 
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Not bad at all. Takes about an hour on my 92. No need to remove the master cylinder either.

Thanks. That's probably on tap for me this weekend. Brakes suddenly went very soft after a trip last weekend.
 
Thanks. That's probably on tap for me this weekend. Brakes suddenly went very soft after a trip last weekend.
More than likely that is the master cylinder, brake booster will result in hard brake pedal. From the FSM:
BRAKE BOOSTER ASSEMBLY
OPERATION
1. OPERATING CHECK
(a) Depress the brake pedal several times with the engine off
and check that there is no change in the pedal reserve
distance.
(b) Depress the brake pedal and start the engine. If the pedal
goes down slightly, operation is normal.
2. AIR TIGHTNESS CHECK
(a) Start the engine and stop it after 1 or 2 minutes. Depress
the brake pedal several times slowly. If the pedal goes
down furthest the 1st time, but gradually rises after the
2nd or 3rd time, the booster is air tight.
(b) Depress the brake pedal while the engine is running, and
stop the engine with the pedal depressed. If there is no
change in the pedal reserve travel after holding the pedal
for 30 seconds, the booster is air tight.
 
More than likely that is the master cylinder, brake booster will result in hard brake pedal. From the FSM:
BRAKE BOOSTER ASSEMBLY
OPERATION
1. OPERATING CHECK
(a) Depress the brake pedal several times with the engine off
and check that there is no change in the pedal reserve
distance.
(b) Depress the brake pedal and start the engine. If the pedal
goes down slightly, operation is normal.
2. AIR TIGHTNESS CHECK
(a) Start the engine and stop it after 1 or 2 minutes. Depress
the brake pedal several times slowly. If the pedal goes
down furthest the 1st time, but gradually rises after the
2nd or 3rd time, the booster is air tight.
(b) Depress the brake pedal while the engine is running, and
stop the engine with the pedal depressed. If there is no
change in the pedal reserve travel after holding the pedal
for 30 seconds, the booster is air tight.

Thanks for taking the time to post that. Very much appreciated.
 
Father's Day exploring with the kids south of Stoneman Lake. Some neat country in there. Went up to the fire tower and then spent some time in the hammock letting the dogs run around. Nice round trip of about 250 miles. Then blew a heater hose a mile from my house. PHH!

FD1.jpg


FD2.jpg


FD3.jpg
 

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