When using spacers with hubcentric wheels: Simply carry 3 acorn/taper lug nuts, slide the wheel on, install the taper nuts on every other stud and snug them, install washer nuts on the other studs and properly torque, remove the taper nuts and replace with washer type. Works great, has been many times, thousands of trail miles, on FF '80 rigs, with big tires, zero shakes or failures.
I would never use loc-tite on any wheel lug, makes retorqure check worthless, cant detect issues. If properly installed, clean, flat mating surfaces, properly torqued, there is zero need for loc-tite.
Doing the final tightening on lug nuts with an impact is a very bad practice. The proper torque for conical lug nuts is 109 ft-lbs and 76 ft-lbs for the flange type. Tightening them more than that or unevenly will weaken the mounting connection and stretch, weaken the studs.
Follow the spacer manufactures directions when installing them. For mine it was, clean the hub mounting surface, install the spacer with the conical nuts, torque to 109 ft-lbs, install the wheel and torque to 76 ft-lbs. Drive ~100 miles, pull the wheels and retorque the spacer nuts.
Lock-tite is a great product, but lug nuts aren't a good application. A properly installed lug nuts will not loosen, fall of on their own. Most all cases can be traced to stretched, damaged studs, under or over torqued nuts, dirty/rusty/even thickly painted hub mounting surface. In other words the nut doesn't turn, if the studs are stretched they stretch more or debris, uneven mounting surface allows the mounted part to move reducing the clamping force. Once it moves it's game over, next time it will move easier, repeat, shortly the wheel is off.
If lock-tite is used retorque readings are useless, the nut is glued to the stud, it could be 25 ft-lbs and you would never know. Also if it is used and the nut needs to be removed, the torque needed is likely to damage, twist, stretch the stud, possibly leading to issues later.
John