Quite the license plate collection.
What did you do on your 70 series today? (29 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
They look good. PartSouq?
Front fenders are available from US Toyota dealers.
Megazip, Japanese warehouse.
Were those plug and play ?
Much appreciated
Looks like it has a plastic tank top piece. That’s what got me thinking.
That sucks , I have some aftermarket non flare fenders here in the shop if you decide to get rid of the flares
loeky
SILVER Star
s***ty. You might be surprised what a good paintless dent repair could do to save the existing fender. Bodywork would still be required given flares though.
Head unit installed.
Now to figure out how to get the powered antenna operating.
![IMG_7730[1].JPG](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1920' height='1440' viewBox%3D'0 0 1920 1440'%2F%3E "IMG_7730[1].JPG")
Now to figure out how to get the powered antenna operating.
Is this a 24v system? Do you more details on your set up?
I found a bad relay on my glow system. It was taking 500mA to actuate which is more than the circuit provided. I found a 24v 120A continuous duty relay on Amazon for $10.99. Installed it yesterday and it works great.
I'm still not getting the in cab glow light to come on, but the glow plugs are getting power.
I'm still not getting the in cab glow light to come on, but the glow plugs are getting power.
I have this exact head in my 24V car- ran two separate 24v-12V Victron voltage converters (10A for switched power and 5A for constant). Put them right above the glove box with two sided tape. Has worked without a hitch.
No; it's a 12V vehicle.
I abandoned the Toyota audio system as I had read multiple comments that the system in this 78 model was pretty crappy. And supposedly no adapters are readily available for the factory connector. The existing front speakers were blown, and the rear speakers were missing. Used the 12V, ACC, Illumination, and Ground conductors by removing them from the factory connector. Ran new speaker cables and installed new speakers.
Yeah, I was thinking about that, just cause I hate driving around with it looking like this. I'm thinking I'll keep the flares, simply because it keeps it OEM. A new fender is around $250 so I'll probably skip any dent repairs at this point, and save the $ for the replacement parts.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 186
- Messages
- 11,061
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
Finally got around to fixing some damage I did a while back in Uwharrie. Kissed a rock with the right rocker panel denting it upwards a bit and partially crushing my exhaust tubing where it went underneath the factory exhaust hanger protruding from the frame. I also mashed my Expedient skid plate into contact with the transfer case some engine vibes have been going directly to the frame making noise for some time.
I removed the 6-ft piece of flex pipe that was smashed. I cut the factory exhaust hanger off the frame with the sawzall. This allowed me to push the new flex pipe a good two inches upward and out of the way. The exhaust no longer protrudes below the rocker panel like it does on most bj-73s. It doesn't vibrate against the floor and it doesn't get my floor mats too hot. This will make room for me to figure out how to fabricate Rock sliders and attachments that will go below the exhaust and rocker panel.
Unbolted to makeshift skid plate and the truck is now much quieter. Need to make a new better skid plate for the T-case now.
The Rock sliders may not be exactly Rock sliders but more of rocker panel armor to prevent smashing in of the rocker panel and affecting door closure. If I made straight up strong Rock sliders it would affect my ground clearance which is actually quite good.
First pick new pipe installed and low-hanging exhaust hanger removed. Second pick from side of truck showing the exhaust no longer hangs lower than the rocker panel. The third pic shows the original exhaust hanger that got in the way....... I do know flex pipe isn't optimum and it will likely rust/break away in 2 years. I ended up with five free 6-ft pieces so it has become my snorkel the majority of my exhaust and other things as well. Make use of it till it's gone. One day I'll pay 200 bucks for an exhaust shop to make me a proper pipe.
I removed the 6-ft piece of flex pipe that was smashed. I cut the factory exhaust hanger off the frame with the sawzall. This allowed me to push the new flex pipe a good two inches upward and out of the way. The exhaust no longer protrudes below the rocker panel like it does on most bj-73s. It doesn't vibrate against the floor and it doesn't get my floor mats too hot. This will make room for me to figure out how to fabricate Rock sliders and attachments that will go below the exhaust and rocker panel.
Unbolted to makeshift skid plate and the truck is now much quieter. Need to make a new better skid plate for the T-case now.
The Rock sliders may not be exactly Rock sliders but more of rocker panel armor to prevent smashing in of the rocker panel and affecting door closure. If I made straight up strong Rock sliders it would affect my ground clearance which is actually quite good.
First pick new pipe installed and low-hanging exhaust hanger removed. Second pick from side of truck showing the exhaust no longer hangs lower than the rocker panel. The third pic shows the original exhaust hanger that got in the way....... I do know flex pipe isn't optimum and it will likely rust/break away in 2 years. I ended up with five free 6-ft pieces so it has become my snorkel the majority of my exhaust and other things as well. Make use of it till it's gone. One day I'll pay 200 bucks for an exhaust shop to make me a proper pipe.
Last edited:
