What are the w mount capabilities? How do I get your email? It's for my sons new(to him) 87 bj. The abortion on the truck is welded on so to cut it off w out damaging the rails is going to be a pain. I went on am extreme trail run. Now I want a trail truckthe close fit you have there is ideal. Is that price for real?
What did you do on your 70 series today? (25 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Yes, the price is for real. It will take a better beating than the OEM Bumper, but it isn't ARB quality. I like the ARB bumper, but don't care for the weight, price, or the hoops around the headlights and up to the hood. I just don't plan on hitting any kangaroos or deer out the desert.
Anyway, I put a lot of welds on the bracket I fabricated. It should support a winch if I decide to go that route. But if I hit something very hard, yes it will dent it, but it is a disposable bumper, as I look at it. This is 3/16th mass produced. And, I like the "tucked in" look as well.
You can see where I had to remove about a 1/2" of metal on the wing on the outside of the brackets in order to get it closer to the grill. Otherwise it will hit the fenders and be further forward as yours presently is. Then I welded the 4"x4" tabs on, and finished with 3" flat at the bottom and bolted the OEM stock hook bolts through there. It is bolted in 2 spots with grade 8 bolts on each Frame rail, so it shouldn't be going anywhere.
If your frame rails are already mutilated from the previous bumper/PO, you may consider welding the new one on. You could save a lot of time since most of the time involved is making this bumper removable, yet strong.
I started a private conversation with you, check that if you want more details.
Anyway, I put a lot of welds on the bracket I fabricated. It should support a winch if I decide to go that route. But if I hit something very hard, yes it will dent it, but it is a disposable bumper, as I look at it. This is 3/16th mass produced. And, I like the "tucked in" look as well.
You can see where I had to remove about a 1/2" of metal on the wing on the outside of the brackets in order to get it closer to the grill. Otherwise it will hit the fenders and be further forward as yours presently is. Then I welded the 4"x4" tabs on, and finished with 3" flat at the bottom and bolted the OEM stock hook bolts through there. It is bolted in 2 spots with grade 8 bolts on each Frame rail, so it shouldn't be going anywhere.
If your frame rails are already mutilated from the previous bumper/PO, you may consider welding the new one on. You could save a lot of time since most of the time involved is making this bumper removable, yet strong.
I started a private conversation with you, check that if you want more details.
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Passed safety 0 issues no "advisement" no recall. Yah hoo!! Went and got registered insured n new tags. This involved at least 6 trips to the agent Reno insurance. The process was complicated by the owner being out of province(my son). Karina faxed form after form but got it done. Even though the Bo's was not signed etc. now it's ready for it's first trip n off road test drive
Passed safety. Got tags n insurance. Back on the road after 14yrs of being garaged. Was waiting for new owner that would fix everything. Now to do all fluids check belts etc. so far po seems to have kept up p well except for slight oil leak.
Got sum stainless mud guards folded up....just a few issues too sort out so i have something too bolt them too.
New back section carpet. Looks so good I hate to put the seats back in there.
Looks great!did you use any glue or carpet tape? My dog stands on wheel well with head out window. Keeps sliding off the wells
I went down to the local boat upholstery shop and they had some carpet remnants in charcoal grey. They gave me a large piece of paper bag paper and I cut out to the size of the cargo area (that took longer than you would think) and they had it ready the next day. So I have marine grade carpet. No tape, glue, or anything. It just lays flat. They did an amazing job. Wheel Well carpet is stock. Pretty decent match if you ask me.
Thank christ thats bloody over
Removed some parts...
Today I removed welded on belly pan(who even does that?)then got on process of cleaning inside frame rails scraped crud into piles then used the shop vac with a reducer into a 90 degrees piece of heater hose. Stuck the end into rail holes and sucked out pounds of dry flaky rust. Gave frame hammer test all goodsprayed tranny etc. with degreaser. Pfffft waste of time grease way too thick. Back to car wash now with pan off. Bought new axle vent lines magnetic drain plugs 1way caps. Dropped axles forgot to remove. Oops. gotta get ready for upcoming gear swap any way. Poor old bj ain't had a proper bath in 30 years.
Attempted to fix my temp gauge issue today. Installed an OLD NOS part but no luck (still doesn't read correctly). If anyone else has had issues with their stock temp gauge and can share how they solved the issue, that would be great.
Temp sender unit at the engine is new but perhaps not correct part? I got the temp sender locally and is not OEM.
Temp sender unit at the engine is new but perhaps not correct part? I got the temp sender locally and is not OEM.
Attempted to fix my temp gauge issue today. Installed an OLD NOS part but no luck (still doesn't read correctly). If anyone else has had issues with their stock temp gauge and can share how they solved the issue, that would be great.
Temp sender unit at the engine is new but perhaps not correct part? I got the temp sender locally and is not OEM.
What is it reading? I am assuming you are talking about the water temp gauge?
I would double check sending unit is correctly matched to gauge and double check the integrity of the connection between the gauge and sending unit.
FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
More dechroming today
Its called temperature spike, its electrical issue. Will happen more often when you have full fuel tank, no idea why. And usually both fuel and temp needles spike at the same time.
On old gauge I cleaned the contacts at the incorporated voltage regulator, but that threw out of range the whole reading.
You can attempt to clean the contacts. Best would be an aftermarket pid reader. I have even 6-7 deg celsius difference in coolant temperature on the aftermarket gauge, without the dash needle moving much.
also, do a search on mud on "temperature spike".
