fireball
SILVER Star
Looks like a nice truck! Does it need a full frame off? Those have a way of taking up lots of time and lots of money!
What are you working on? (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter crawlin40
- Start date
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brian
SILVER Star
Doesn't look like it from that angle
Yep. Needs new 3/4 tub. Has serious rot under both passenger floors. Rear tub has really strange diamond plate used to reinforce weld between tub and passenger section. Rot in wheel wells. Frame also has to be media blasted, rust prevention and painting.
Wow looks awesome I think I'd just drive it the way it is!!!!!
Thanks. It’s definitely driveable as is. I want to restore it and doing it as a father/son project. So it’s more about spending time with my son and helping him learn as well.
Just before the new year I took time to install my son's Christmas gift in the white Cruiser. Did some MUD research and decided on these speakers, 6" fronts and 4" rears. Nothing fancy or expensive, just a simple upgrade over the old tired originals.
![20191230_174052[1].jpg](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1920' height='1080' viewBox%3D'0 0 1920 1080'%2F%3E "20191230_174052[1].jpg")
I had done rears before in the cammo truck, so these were fairly easy. Pull the old door cups and separate the speakers. Hardest part is getting the 23yr old harness clip to release inside the door.
Dremel out the bottom of the cup and the new speakers fit flush onto the cups. I use a smear of RTV around the top of the cup to hold these in place. Tape rolls and hockey pucks as a drying station optional.
I like to keep the original harness clips in case I ever want to upgrade again or swap out speakers. I was doing some beer shopping one evening and found these water tight shrink wrap tubes with a solder connection in the center. Only issue was that the suggested heat gun included with the Amazon purchase isn't hot enough to melt the solder ... classic. Still came out nice and sturdy.
End fitment. The speakers had mount tabs that were easily snapped off after working them back and forth a few times.
I had done rears before in the cammo truck, so these were fairly easy. Pull the old door cups and separate the speakers. Hardest part is getting the 23yr old harness clip to release inside the door.
Dremel out the bottom of the cup and the new speakers fit flush onto the cups. I use a smear of RTV around the top of the cup to hold these in place. Tape rolls and hockey pucks as a drying station optional.
I like to keep the original harness clips in case I ever want to upgrade again or swap out speakers. I was doing some beer shopping one evening and found these water tight shrink wrap tubes with a solder connection in the center. Only issue was that the suggested heat gun included with the Amazon purchase isn't hot enough to melt the solder ... classic. Still came out nice and sturdy.
End fitment. The speakers had mount tabs that were easily snapped off after working them back and forth a few times.
The fronts were a bit more effort. I don't think the door panels had ever been removed before, everything was pristine, clips, plastic liner, door card. The hardest part was getting the clips off again. OEM fronts are 5.25", so it takes some modification to fit the 6" speakers. The mount holes line up, but the rear magnet on the speaker will hit the window run without a spacer.
I bent the mounting tabs up, then I cut small strips of 1/4" rubber gym mat to use as a spacer between the door frame and speaker. Go to the hardware store to get some 1.5" mounting screws, find out they are just a hair too big to slide through the mount holes in the speakers ... swear for a bit, drink a beer, very carefully drill out the mount holes in the speaker. Do all 8 holes without slipping and puncturing the new speakers, drink another beer, connect to the factory wiring harness and screw the speakers into the factory mounts. Hold breath and put the window down while hoping the screws don't hit the glass ... they don't. Door panel goes back on with no drama and the grill clears the dash by 3/16". No finish pics because I sat in the truck with music blaring and had another beer or two. Sound and bass quality is highly improved.
I bent the mounting tabs up, then I cut small strips of 1/4" rubber gym mat to use as a spacer between the door frame and speaker. Go to the hardware store to get some 1.5" mounting screws, find out they are just a hair too big to slide through the mount holes in the speakers ... swear for a bit, drink a beer, very carefully drill out the mount holes in the speaker. Do all 8 holes without slipping and puncturing the new speakers, drink another beer, connect to the factory wiring harness and screw the speakers into the factory mounts. Hold breath and put the window down while hoping the screws don't hit the glass ... they don't. Door panel goes back on with no drama and the grill clears the dash by 3/16". No finish pics because I sat in the truck with music blaring and had another beer or two. Sound and bass quality is highly improved.
Shop is ready for the FJ that I’m picking up on Monday and the father/son project begins.
brian
SILVER Star
i thought you picked up a 40 series?
I did. Still at PO’s house. Getting trailer on Monday to go get it. The pic is from the PO’s driveway.
brian
SILVER Star
fj= fjcruiser
Ah- Thanks for the correction. Learning as we go.
Just call it a 40, and you're good to go, as well as avoiding any ribbing!
brian
SILVER Star
The waterjet is now fully operational and the brakepress will be as well shortly.
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I'd be glad to post one of your decal/stickers on my 40!!!!!
Does he have a tan fj40 as well in the driveway? Looks like a 40 I saw in Allentown by Cedar Beach. Nice score
brian
SILVER Star
1985 Stihl 012av.
An oldie but goodie!
Was leaking gas into the bar oil tank and needed to reseal the case.
Happened to leave one of the two base gaskets out, which bumped the compression up a fair bit.
Will post again when it's all back together.
An oldie but goodie!
Was leaking gas into the bar oil tank and needed to reseal the case.
Happened to leave one of the two base gaskets out, which bumped the compression up a fair bit.
Will post again when it's all back together.
Ooooo
brian
SILVER Star
So as I'm chasing threads in the 60series frame I notice a chunk of rusty crap in the front crossmember. Fearing some sort of completely unforeseen nastiness, I proceed to quickly dig it out.
Any guesses?
Any guesses?