I am running that setup too. Wiring up the front elocker to work with the rotary locker switch is straight forward too!Im considering the harrop in my 98 w rdl. That way Im rid of the 2 pinion before I run into trouble. I like the elocker route bc then if I ever want to run a 2 battery setup I dont have a compressor to re-locate.
sorry that happened to you op
There was a sizable cost difference for me. The air lockers were around $900 each and my compressor was included when I bought both. The e-lockers were around $1350 each and I was still going to need an air compressor for tires. The reliability was also an unknown to me at the time so I was definitely not going to spend $1k+ Additional for them.I’m seeing a lot of people who have gone with e lockers. Is there anyone out there with air lockers? Anybody out there with an 06/07 running 34+ sized tires and regeared? I can’t see any other extra benefit from going with air other than being able to air up my tires...air tools have been replaced with batteries. E lockers seem to have less things available to go wrong on the outside of the unit since it’s just an electrical wire.
The e-lockers were definitely more expensive but if you decide to go with them Cruiser Brothers may occasionally have them on sale. I ended up getting both e-lockers for a total of $300 off, which made the price a little more palatable. Check this thread to sign up for a sale notice: Harrop Eaton Elocker SpecialThere was a sizable cost difference for me.
Food for thought, my booster blew and i was able to pull the electronic booster motor out of a Mitsubishi Montero at a pick a part junk yard...scary driving without front brakes and no power rearsWhen mine blows I plan to throw an E-locker in there. I've been seriously considering it with my stimmy $$$, but I know as soon as I do something will happen like the dreaded brake booster or something.
I think ARB addressed that issue a long time ago but the stigma lives on.How many of yall have actually experienced leak issues with the ARB lockers? I seemed to see quite a bit of complaining about that online which made me lean e-locker. Also didn't really want to add a compressor, it's nice but adds another fail point in my opinion.
Seems like if your e locker isn't getting power it's more than likely a wiring problem you can figure out on the trail. If you compressor dies or your gasket in the diff leaks your air locker just ain't gonna work, but maybe it's not a common enough issue to really worry about. Costs for air or electronic seem similar if you include the compressor cost so I'm just wondering about reliability
labor is the same for both. Most shops just charge a flat setup fee for a diff. Air lockers are very simple things and the rotary switch is easily wired for them as well.I blew my front diff up about a year ago--had East Coast Gear Supply in Raleigh put in a new R&P and a Harrop locker. I'm pretty sure the install cost for the Harrop was significantly lower (like a couple hours' labor cost) than it would've been for the air locker, which makes sense as it's soooo much simpler inside the diff and less fiddly to get set up correctly. So if you're not doing the install yourself, take that into account.
I don't really know what I am doing with a differential. I have not taken one apart in over 20 years and I would just rather pay a shop to do it. The problem is that most 4x4 places out here specialize in Jeep, so I would like one that knows Toyota a little more, and I don't trust or want to pay a dealership.Why not contact ARB directly for support??